Jump to content
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

shutthepuckup

How to put toe curve on one piece

Recommended Posts

Buy a custom batch. Can't curve composite without major structure damage.

Wait does bauer let you customize your blades in batch? I don't mean just mybauer but like your actual own curve?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't found much success with Bauer doing custom sticks for the everyday player. Buying left over prostock is always an option or simply have blades made using another company and match them with whatever shaft you like.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't tried curving any recent blades. I did it with Easton's UltraGraphite and UltraLite Graphite blades back in the day. It didn't turn out to be robust at all. I loved the geometry I got though. My puck handling and passing accuracy went through the roof. Shooting laughable anywhere but off the heel.

I did actually get better results from boiling the UltraLite Graphite blade, about 5 minutes, and then curving it. This method was recommended by an LHS employee. Instead of cracking all the way through, it sort of just hairline cracked on the outside. When I would shoot off the toe of that blade, it would retain its form much better and not just flop out of the way like the other blades I did. The UltraGraphites I just held over the burner to warm up. I much preferred the texture and feel of the UltraGraphite, but I couldn't find one by the time I tried the boiling method instead. The current Mako blades seem to be pretty much the same as the original UltraGraphites, but they're harder to find over here.

I'm thinking about trying the boiling method again, as I've recently picked up an old stock UltraLite blade for cheap, but I'm working on getting the balance of my stick right before I do it. I only skate once or twice a week, so any equipment adjustment progress I achieve is usually painfully slow.

As for curving Bauer's composite blades, I haven't tried it. And in general, I'd agree with those that strongly warn it's stupid to do it. It's really hard to do without breaking it after a limited use. In a good case, you might discover you really like the pattern you can make, as I did. But without a pro equipment budget, it might not make much sense to do it to yourself. Maybe try it with a shaft and blade combo first, or from a recovered blade from a broken OPS shaft (if it's still feasible to recover blades from fused models). That way you can have a demo stick to see if you even like the change in the first place, or if it's beyond possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I forgot to add, my older brother recommended trying to fix the cracks with epoxy way back when I was curving those blades so badly. I didn't think that would hold, but I didn't even give it a try. I may do that now if the current curve seems to crack or weaken. I'm pretty sure it's easy to find at hardware stores. Around here it costs $10-12 for a decent size tube pair.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried heating and toe curving my fischer sx5, with good success. over a month now with no noticeable difference.

SX5 blades have an ABS core which may work well with this old method. too early to tell.

Also tried it with the fischer sx7 blade which has a PU core , with the same success. (so far so good)

I didn't go crazy with the curves with I but was able to take a sakic like curve add more loft and more curve at the toe.

not recommending you buy/try this, just letting you know what I had success with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried heating and toe curving my fischer sx5, with good success. over a month now with no noticeable difference.

SX5 blades have an ABS core which may work well with this old method. too early to tell.

Also tried it with the fischer sx7 blade which has a PU core , with the same success. (so far so good)

I didn't go crazy with the curves with I but was able to take a sakic like curve add more loft and more curve at the toe.

not recommending you buy/try this, just letting you know what I had success with.

While it may have worked for you, for every guy who had success doing this, 100 have ruined a perfectly good stick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

how do you know if it is solid core or foam?

what's a guy to do, if you like a curve that isnt generally available retail nor pro stock?

if your willing to risk it, your willing to risk it and some sticks are better suited for this and some sticks are not possible at all. if we can help other members do this with the right sticks, is it bad?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

how do you know if it is solid core or foam?

what's a guy to do, if you like a curve that isnt generally available retail nor pro stock?

if your willing to risk it, your willing to risk it and some sticks are better suited for this and some sticks are not possible at all. if we can help other members do this with the right sticks, is it bad?

Very, very few sticks have a solid core. If there was a way to do it that was effective, I would endorse it. The truth is, there isn't a good way to do it for the vast majority of composite blades.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't found much success with Bauer doing custom sticks for the everyday player. Buying left over prostock is always an option or simply have blades made using another company and match them with whatever shaft you like.

What companies offer custom replacement blades?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been doing this for years with composites due to the lack of toe curves at retail...a must have for me has been the ProCurve. Not even sure it's made anymore (try Mr Google)...Heat gun works best to control the amount of heat you need.

The key is to start with a curve that is close to what you want (currently doing this to a Sherwoord Rekker Smyth Curve, previously Warrior Gionta and for years before that, Easton Iginla)...Iggy was the hardest because it really was never a toe to begin with..If I got greedy with the amount of hook, I got burned. For me the risk is worth it because what I want is just not available at retail. Smyth, Gionta (gone now), and pro stock Kovy are the closest I could find...Ovi just doesn't work for me...

You will never make a heel curve a toe and vice versa...Like I said, you need to find a pattern that is close to what you want and "tweak" it...carefully:)

Found an old post...http://modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/9328-procurve-stick-curver/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will state I have never worked on composite...Only wood.

I pick up every broken composite stick blade I find so when I have more time...I will start working on composite.

you can youtube videos on this...watch who is doing what...you will find kids destroying their sticks with pliers and such. You can see Ryan Smith using a door...

I learned to curve a stick when I was a kid (wood) using the stove top. The kicker that I am amazed that I do not see anyone is that I use the sole of my shoe to help put the curve in. This way you do not overcurve. I also put marks ont he blade with a sharpy to know where and how I want to bend the blade.

I missed out on a pro-curve unit on ebay maybe 18 months ago and regret not getting it...

Todays composites are hollow or foam filled, back in time the blades where not...they where laminated layers of graphite...so that plays into what can and cannot be done...

If your still looking at the P88...have you checked out the p14...very similar, but more toe flare

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use to step on, pull up method with curving blades, wood and composite. But still, the composites don't really hold up as well. With Christian blades, it gave this awesome springiness that added pop on the shot originating from the blade. Loved that. I'm sad I can't get their blades or anything similar anymore, now that I know what geometry I want.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...