Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[lecavalier 0]

I heard a rumor that if you heat up the fuse point enough, that you can pull the blade off, and use a tapered blade?

That's with some other sticks

[stickler012 0]

Does it work with the Inno 1100?

[ambro 0]

I couldn't get my broken Inno 1100 fused blade out with just heat. I've heard of people doing it though. I guess you'll just have to try and see for yourself.

[opus22 0]

on the synergy, try about a half inch further towards the blade past the patent pending graphic. i dont know if that graphic has moved - but the last 2 ive vut have been there. if youve got foam at that point - cut maybe a 1/4 inch at a time till youve got open space. the further you go past the right spot - the more loose the blade will be (though a little tape on the hosel worked for me). this is all assuming you're going for the tapered shaft.

ive tried them flipped and tapered - and i think the tapered is quite a bit better. the flex felt weird upside down to me. i found that the tapered side gave some nice snap/kick to the stick/shot on ice. i would think this is what the whole low kick point thing is about. im sure buying an actual tapered shaft gives the best result, but i think this is a great cheap option. didnt do a lot for me in roller though - puck is just too light to feel the kick.

[Brandonov22 0]

All you have to do is take the tapered blade of your choice, then put it against the stick as if it was already in the stick and cut where the end of the blade is. It's usually between the "N" and the "D" in "patent peNDing" on the Easton's.

[A_Steeves12 0]

I couldn't get my broken Inno 1100 fused blade out with just heat. I've heard of people doing it though. I guess you'll just have to try and see for yourself.

isnt the Inno 1100 almost the same as the Vapor XX if it is the you should be able to get the blade out with heat, i got the blade out of my XX useing heat then i stuck the blade in the vice and pulled it out. i think it might work on a synergy maybe.

[Rustyhole 1]

Remember, not all graphics are applied to every stick in exactly the same place so you should expect to have a 'fudge' factor. can't you guess by looking at hosel size & shaft size for placement??? I'd think you'd just have to experiment

[colonials22 0]

I couldn't get my broken Inno 1100 fused blade out with just heat.  I've heard of people doing it though.  I guess you'll just have to try and see for yourself.

isnt the Inno 1100 almost the same as the Vapor XX if it is the you should be able to get the blade out with heat, i got the blade out of my XX useing heat then i stuck the blade in the vice and pulled it out. i think it might work on a synergy maybe.

so let me see, you took a vapor XX heated it (as if it were a two piece stick), and pulled the blade right out , (just like a two piece stick)?

If so, did you or could you make this a tapered shaft and put a tapered blade into it?

[Kovy_Ribs_Fedo 3]

Instead of flipping the shaft, why not shave the hosel. I did it a lot of times on different graphite blades it worked pretty well.

[A_Steeves12 0]

yes i did take a Vapor XX and heat it like a 2piece and i used it as a tapered combo.

[kovalchuk71 212]

Took the blade out of my pro stock Vapor XX as well

[notorious#29 0]

All you have to do is take the tapered blade of your choice, then put it against the stick as if it was already in the stick and cut where the end of the blade is. It's usually between the "N" and the "D" in "patent peNDing" on the Easton's.

The end of the hosel, or the end of the part of the blade thats still shows?

[notorious#29 0]

Just curious cause I might cut my broken synergy now too.

[dix0r 0]

I couldn't get my broken Inno 1100 fused blade out with just heat. I've heard of people doing it though. I guess you'll just have to try and see for yourself.

I did...had to put the blade between my shoes and pull up but it came out...

[opus22 0]

All you have to do is take the tapered blade of your choice, then put it against the stick as if it was already in the stick and cut where the end of the blade is.  It's usually between the "N" and the "D" in "patent peNDing" on the Easton's.

The end of the hosel, or the end of the part of the blade thats still shows?

part of the blade - i think. i think the perfect spot is a quarter to half inch past the pending marker myself. if you get the foam - just keep cutting as thin as you can till your there.

[Sven 1]

ive got a question too.

where do i have to cut my broken OPS ?

ive heard that i should cut where the easton E is (this round logo)

then i have to put a plug on the side where the blade was and the new blade on the other end (there where the tape is)

[Fury of One 6]

ive got a question too.

where do i have to cut my broken OPS ?

ive heard that i should cut where the easton E is (this round logo)

then i have to put a plug on the side where the blade was and the new blade on the other end (there where the tape is)

That's only if you want to use standard blades. If you use tapered blades you can just put them in where you cut it.

[sherwood21 0]

ive got a question too.

where do i have to cut my broken OPS ?

ive heard that i should cut where the easton E is (this round logo)

then i have to put a plug on the side where the blade was and the new blade on the other end (there where the tape is)

Cut it at the fuse point, which is right around that area. You should be able to recognize it. If you want a tapered blade, put it in right there. If you want to put a standard in, flip the shaft over, put the standard blade where your old knob was. Put a butt-end in where the blade used to be.

I'd suggest getting your hands on a tapered blade and going the first route that I told you about, since flipping the shaft over makes the kickpoint messy.

EDIT: fury beat me to it

[dieselbro 0]

I think if you flip the shaft over though you kinda screw up the kickpoint. This is what I have heard, just a thought.

[kovalchuk71 212]

That is true...Totally destroys the "low kick-point"

[JCYC5 0]

So the flex would focus where your upper hand grips?

:lol:

[ajd91187 0]

yeah, that's why you're not supposed to flip them over.

[sogaduch 0]

you cut the new synergys at the last N on the patent pending this is just above the foam

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

Old subject, but not all Synnergies have the PATENT PENDING on it... I'm trying to remember where I cut the two of mine I did before.... may end up with the chisel method....

[A_Steeves12 0]

i got an old syger grip today and had to cut it for tapered blades i cut about an inch and a half down from the ( E ) thing. it was a prefect cut. there was a tiny bit of resien left in the shaft but it came out with ease.