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Krev

Easton Mako Skates

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I think that it's not just the pressure that causes it. I think it's also due to the fact that you are accelerating and decelerating at the heel and the toe. That makes the time that it spends at the heel and toe longer than the middle which of course gives it more time to grind away. I'm not sure but I would think an automatic sharpener would have the same issue (unless it accelerates/decelerates before/after it is touching the blade). I don't know if it is "correct" or not, but I minimize the "banana" effect by doing fewer passes at the heel/toe than in the "working" section of the blade.

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Hey guys couple questions here, sorry if they've already been asked, hard to read a 97 page forum but im doing my best, Love what I've heard about the makos and Mako 2s and wanted to check them out but the mako 2 is a little out of my price range, may look on eBay an some other sites to try and find a cheaper pair but no guarantees. Saying that how do the m8 skates compare to the original, what are some of the major differences and which would you recommend. And secondly as I play defense how does the aggressive pitch effect skating backwards, pivoting, etc..? Thanks for any thoughts you may have.

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Hey guys couple questions here, sorry if they've already been asked, hard to read a 97 page forum but im doing my best, Love what I've heard about the makos and Mako 2s and wanted to check them out but the mako 2 is a little out of my price range, may look on eBay an some other sites to try and find a cheaper pair but no guarantees. Saying that how do the m8 skates compare to the original, what are some of the major differences and which would you recommend. And secondly as I play defense how does the aggressive pitch effect skating backwards, pivoting, etc..? Thanks for any thoughts you may have.

I got m8's for 400 new on ebay and converted them to rollerblades. I personally cannot tell the difference between the two. Maybe one is slightly heavier than the other? Idk. One uses carbon fiber, and one uses fiberglass - which might just mean the mako 2 will last a bit longer than the m8's.

To be honest, for some reason the tounge on my m8's is actually nicer than my mako 2 tounge. Much thicker. But I noticed after I bought them, my M8's are difference than ones Ive seen listed online.

Heres a pic:

LLWqHl9.jpg

notice the black tongue. compared to m8s online:

easton-mako-m8-sr-ice-hockey-skates-35.j

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I've been wondering about the difference as well. Hockey Monkey lists the Mako II as 840 grams and the same size Mako M8 as 852 grams, so only a very slight difference in weight. Over in the Easton catalog thread, I asked if anyone could clarify what the material differences are between the models. From what I recall reading, the original Mako had a Texalium composite shell, not carbon composite. I don't know anything about how those two compare in performance or anything, just that they're different composite fabrics used in similar ways for composite part construction. What's potentially significant about the difference in Texalium on the original Mako and composite on the II, M8, etc. is the catalog lists a C-number, which could be the carbon content of the fabric? From my understanding, carbon can be substituted for fiberglas or other heavier materials, with similar end performance, just with higher stiffness in full-carbon fabrics and less in those containing some glas, etc. In the case of the 3-tiered Mako line, the C-numbers drop from C-100 to C-80 and C-50 from the top of the line (C-100) down to the bottom (C-50). I'm guessing at most of this, so anyone with better knowledge, please correct my misunderstandings. If I'm reading/guessing right, there's a 20% glas (or similar) content in the M8 compared to the Mako II and that doesn't make for that much of a weight increase.

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Has anyone had any success repairing cracks to the boot of the original Mako? I have a crack in the bottom of one skate and also on the side of the heel (the silver part) on the same skate. I tried a 2-part epoxy but it didn't take.

Have there been similar issues with the M8?

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Does anyone have any info on the M7, besides what is in the catalogue and listed at the online retailers? I may try a pair, as I am sitting about a size too big in my Mako 2s. I seem to get around the ice ok, and the skates feel good on my feet, I am just curious if I can get better agility, and do not wanna drop another $800 on Mako 2s. The only other skate besides Makos that I might be interested in are the VHs.

FWIW, I think the M7 looks great, my favorite looking skate on the market right now. Not that this should matter, of course; I have been wearing Makos for the comfort and performance. Aesthetically speaking, I certainly did not love the orange in the original, and I sure I like how my Mako 2s look a bit beter, but these M7s look perfect IMO.

Quality-wise, I have not seen many skates that have the little ventilation holes in the bottom of the skate, at this price point ($400). Nor do I see many one piece boots (monococque or whatever it's called) on the market, at any price point, aside from Mako and VH.

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Does anyone have any info on the M7, besides what is in the catalogue and listed at the online retailers? I may try a pair, as I am sitting about a size too big in my Mako 2s. I seem to get around the ice ok, and the skates feel good on my feet, I am just curious if I can get better agility, and do not wanna drop another $800 on Mako 2s. The only other skate besides Makos that I might be interested in are the VHs.

FWIW, I think the M7 looks great, my favorite looking skate on the market right now. Not that this should matter, of course; I have been wearing Makos for the comfort and performance. Aesthetically speaking, I certainly did not love the orange in the original, and I sure I like how my Mako 2s look a bit beter, but these M7s look perfect IMO.

Quality-wise, I have not seen many skates that have the little ventilation holes in the bottom of the skate, at this price point ($400). Nor do I see many one piece boots (monococque or whatever it's called) on the market, at any price point, aside from Mako and VH.

Honestly, from my point of view, I'd get the VHs if they were even a thought in your head.

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Has anyone had any success repairing cracks to the boot of the original Mako? I have a crack in the bottom of one skate and also on the side of the heel (the silver part) on the same skate. I tried a 2-part epoxy but it didn't take.

Have there been similar issues with the M8?

No experience with the Mako, but I've been repairing Kor Shift 1s for years. The best approach I found was to use a thin slow cure 2 part epoxy and some flexible carbon fiber cloth. Fiberglass will work in a pinch too. Clean the boot really well with soap and water, then dry really, really well. Wipe with a wax and grease remove and wipe dry with a clean cloth. Sand the boot around the crack to provide some tooth for the epoxy to grab. Wipe with remover and wipe dry again. Pull on your disposable gloves and mix up plenty of epoxy and saturate the cloth with it. Apply the saturated cloth to the boot. Apply pressure with your fingers to sort of seal the cloth to the boot. Wipe away excess epoxy with whatever disposable spatula like thing you can find. Disposable spoons work okay. Give it overnight to dry and then you can sand the excess epoxy to make it a bit prettier.

Even this is a temporary fix in my experience. I never found anything that would last. I think the boot flexes enough that any type of repair is going to pop eventually.

Edited by Neal

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Those who have the step steel, Does the extra steel on the toe take away from the aggressive forward lean and make the skate a little more neutral then stock?

Yes. Step steel is neutral, so it's effectively reducing the overall pitch to +2.

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I went to total hockey last night and tried on a pair of Mako 2's, I put my foot in them and they were so uncomfortable. After I got them baked wow what a difference they were a whole new skate. I read many reviews how well they mold but until you actually try them you dont truly understand how true that is. I also picked up a set of step steel as well to have as my extra steel.

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I went to total hockey last night and tried on a pair of Mako 2's, I put my foot in them and they were so uncomfortable. After I got them baked wow what a difference they were a whole new skate. I read many reviews how well they mold but until you actually try them you dont truly understand how true that is. I also picked up a set of step steel as well to have as my extra steel.

I couldn't even get them on my feet until they were baked. Even unlaced completely, I still couldn't.

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Do you Mako users leave the top lace undone? I've always done so with high end skates for necessary ankle forward flex and I've tried that briefly with demo Mako 2s.

Was wondering if this still offers the same benefit in the long run?

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Do you Mako users leave the top lace undone? I've always done so with high end skates for necessary ankle forward flex and I've tried that briefly with demo Mako 2s.

Was wondering if this still offers the same benefit in the long run?

Nope, never saw a need. Makos have flex where you need it and stiffness where you want it.

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Do you Mako users leave the top lace undone? I've always done so with high end skates for necessary ankle forward flex and I've tried that briefly with demo Mako 2s.

Was wondering if this still offers the same benefit in the long run?

I do. In fact, I have 55 flex on mine and still leave the top undone. I even tried the top 2 undone, but that was a bit too much. I came from Tones always leaving the top 2 undone.

I should say though, that I've backed off the aggressive pitch on mine. I think if you give enough flex at the ankle, you don't need the aggressive pitch to "force" you into a good skating position. If you have the fore/aft flex at the ankles, you can get the ankle/knee bend on a more neutral pitch. With the aggressive pitch, I always felt unstable when battling on the boards or really doing anything where I wasn't moving at speed.

My 2 cents.

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I've been in a pair of Mako 2's for three weeks now. Got fitted for the right size and had them baked at a LHS per the instructions on the box (10 minutes). The skates feel great when seated but my arches are killing me while standing, walking and skating. I tried spot heating the arches with a heat gun but unfortunately the part that I need to press out is the actual carbon composite boot form, not the heat moldable quarter. I called Easton and they confirmed that the carbon composite monocoque boot form is not heat moldable.

I've also tried Yellow Superfeet,which I use in my Supreme One100's. They take up way too much volume and regardless they don't alleviate the arch pain.

I love everything else about the skates. I had no problems adapting to the forward pitch coming from LS 2 holders. But with the arch pain I can only skate for about 20-30 minutes before the pain is unbearable.

Has anyone else had a similar experience and been able to overcome it?

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I've been in a pair of Mako 2's for three weeks now. Got fitted for the right size and had them baked at a LHS per the instructions on the box (10 minutes). The skates feel great when seated but my arches are killing me while standing, walking and skating. I tried spot heating the arches with a heat gun but unfortunately the part that I need to press out is the actual carbon composite boot form, not the heat moldable quarter. I called Easton and they confirmed that the carbon composite monocoque boot form is not heat moldable.

I've also tried Yellow Superfeet,which I use in my Supreme One100's. They take up way too much volume and regardless they don't alleviate the arch pain.

I love everything else about the skates. I had no problems adapting to the forward pitch coming from LS 2 holders. But with the arch pain I can only skate for about 20-30 minutes before the pain is unbearable.

Has anyone else had a similar experience and been able to overcome it?

Do you have an accessory navicular bone? If so, you could cut a 3-inch / 7 cm foam doughnut, and that might distribute the pressure.

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I don't believe that I have an accessory navicular bone. I've never had a problem in any other skates and I measure as a medium arch on the CCM arch measuring plate. It just seems like the arch in the Mako skate is just too high for me. I'll try the foam doughnut to see if it helps.

Edited by Anjin-san

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Hmmm. I wonder if you could be in the wrong size - it's sort of like how we fit guys in Superfeet. Sometimes even if they buy the correct size insole according to the brannock/sizing guideline, the arch may be too far forward/back, and they may need to size up or down a touch.

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It's possible, but the high point of the arch in the boot hits right up against the highest part of my arch. It would seem that moving forward or backwards would make the pain worse.

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