Easton Mako Skates

[flip12 699]

Yeah, it was sarcasm. I know it's not always so easy to pick up in writing, especially with so many English as a second language readers on here. It would have been nice to include the link like decoy did.

[superhakan 2]

I missed most of the previous discussion. My bad for not checking out the rest of the thread.

[syinx 139]

Anyone got any pictures of the lacing on the front? And any specific information about the pattern?

[PK81 0]

anyone know the sizing of the skates based on length of foot ?

[Chadd 916]

Make sure you are removing the insoles after use. My rivets seem to be oxidizing a little more quickly than my older skates.

[mojo122 529]

Good advice. I always remove my footbeds after skating and put the skates on a boot dryer. I have noticed some moisture beneath the insoles. More than what I used to get from my NXG's.

[Rankin2 2]

a few things: great fitting skate, the boot is like no other.

but now to the issues, first off after every ice time I come off and the blade is clicking, and needs to be tightened, this happens after every ice time, also my previous x:60s had literally the opposite contour on them (backward rake) not by choice, just the way they got sharpened. ive been seriously contemplating switching out to LS2 or edge holders, any thoughts?

also, been getting a cut above my ankle, from the top of the boot. any idea how to fix this? picture:

Edited May 31, 2013 by Rankin2

[Buzz_LightBeer 961]

pretty common problem with that area of the skate. The spot in question needs to be heated and "rolled" outward so that seam sort of "blooms" out around your ankle. keep in mind that you need to let that blister heal as well as the skate will most likely keep agitating it even after the initial problem is fixed.

[chrisg19 5]

Yes you need to heat, and roll the upper edges outward. I had the same exact problem. Until my sores healed, I purchased the bunga pads for the ankle, and wore them. Worked like a charm. Good luck...

[DigiV 6]

a few things: great fitting skate, the boot is like no other.

but now to the issues, first off after every ice time I come off and the blade is clicking, and needs to be tightened, this happens after every ice time, also my previous x:60s had literally the opposite contour on them (backward rake) not by choice, just the way they got sharpened. ive been seriously contemplating switching out to LS2 or edge holders, any thoughts?

also, been getting a cut above my ankle, from the top of the boot. any idea how to fix this? picture:

we have the same issues.

I can't get a firm comment about the LS2 replacement from anyone though.

[Rankin2 2]

I can't get a firm comment about the LS2 replacement from anyone though.

I may bite the bullet next pay check, I'll be sure to post picturs etc.

[jimmy 194]

we have the same issues.

I can't get a firm comment about the LS2 replacement from anyone though.

This was covered already, the Lightspeed holder is exact fit. Big mistake to do it, there is no advantage to put LS2s on them except for those who don't like the aggressive fwd lean. Still, in that case, just have the steel reprofiled to neutral first, then if that's not enough, a shim can be put in the front, then as last resort holder change.

Edited June 1, 2013 by jimmy

[DigiV 6]

jimmy, on 01 Jun 2013 - 07:51 AM, said:

This was covered already, the Lightspeed holder is exact fit. Big mistake to do it, there is no advantage to put LS2s on them except for those who don't like the aggressive fwd lean. Still, in that case, just have the steel reprofiled to neutral first, then if that's not enough, a shim can be put in the front, then as last resort holder change.

Why is it a mistake? No one is carrying the steel. It's been a hassle trying to profile them because people in this area are naturally not very good and the already forward lean throws them off i think. Most of my blade has been chopped off as a result.

Furthermore, the constant clicking is driving me nuts. I always feel the blade is loose and i have to retighten them. The original MLX skates never had a holder of this type or a fwd lean like this.. this is a byproduct of Easton,which has never nailed down a proper holder for their skates.Nevertheless, i'm interested to know why you think it's a "big" mistake. Money? hassle? does it not fit well within the context of the mako boot?

Edited June 1, 2013 by DigiV

[mojo122 529]

Did you try Loctite on the runner hardware? If the holder and runner aren't working for you and you have exhausted options like profiling, then by all means swap out holders.

[flyers10 57]

Yes you need to heat, and roll the upper edges outward. I had the same exact problem. Until my sores healed, I purchased the bunga pads for the ankle, and wore them. Worked like a charm. Good luck...

Ditto. Rolled it out. Got silipos/bunga sleeve to let it heal and no issues since. The low cut nature of the boot is affecting most.

[jimmy 194]

Why is it a mistake? No one is carrying the steel. It's been a hassle trying to profile them because people in this area are naturally not very good and the already forward lean throws them off i think. Most of my blade has been chopped off as a result.

Furthermore, the constant clicking is driving me nuts. I always feel the blade is loose and i have to retighten them. The original MLX skates never had a holder of this type or a fwd lean like this.. this is a byproduct of Easton,which has never nailed down a proper holder for their skates.Nevertheless, i'm interested to know why you think it's a "big" mistake. Money? hassle? does it not fit well within the context of the mako boot?

First, I haven't seen any issues with constant clicking, this is usually a symptom on the screws not tight enough. All screws loosen, regardless of brand holder. Many come from factory not tight enough, as stated use loctite and issue should be solved. If that doesn't fix it a .10 stainless washer from the hardware store is a good fix. As a side, LS2 are notorious for loosening and clicking, but with them, too loose or too tight usually ends up with a broken runner. The hardware setup on them is not the best, not to mention the hit or miss snugness of the fishhook up front. It's not always greener on the other side.

The CNX holder is not a byproduct of Easton, the exact same team that designed the MLX, designed these, they were left unfettered by Easton to do their own thing.

It is always a mistake to change holders and steel if it's a profiling issue. I get amused at folks who change holders when a simple radius adjustment is all that is needed. Yes, it's a monetary thing, I hate to see people waste money. But there are many other reasons, F'n with rivets, overlapping holes, endless life of rivet loosening problems to name a few. Also if a shop can't do a simple radius, what odds are there that they can do a remount correctly. All this just opens a can of worms.

The Mako was designed to work in synergy with the CNX holder and steel and I feel some performance will be lost by changing to a LS2. Altering the radius/pitch on the mako is not difficult, so if your shop has reservations, go somewhere else.

[shooter27 116]

When you say roll it out? Are you talking about the top edge of the boot?

[Goldwater64 0]

a few things: great fitting skate, the boot is like no other.

but now to the issues, first off after every ice time I come off and the blade is clicking, and needs to be tightened, this happens after every ice time, also my previous x:60s had literally the opposite contour on them (backward rake) not by choice, just the way they got sharpened. ive been seriously contemplating switching out to LS2 or edge holders, any thoughts?

also, been getting a cut above my ankle, from the top of the boot. any idea how to fix this? picture:

I have similar horizontal abrasions from the upper rim of the skate rubbing up against my ankle. I think I may just wait for my ankles to heal and then perform that heat mold correction.

As far as subbing out to the LS2s, I think that would be a big mistake when you realize the CXN was specifically engineered for the skate. Like the other poster stated, you are better off getting a different profile. The Makos are profiled at a 9' radius so you can tinker from there with a reprofiling.

[jarskie 0]

Just curious about the sizing in lengthwise. How much i will get more room after baking? I tried 8 and 8.5. I was wearing a rather thick sock. Size 8 felt a little too snug and 8.5 my toes were feathering the toe cap, and the skate felt comfortable straigth out the box. Would size 8 be good after baking? Really dont mind spending 700 euros too big / small skates. My current s17 size 9r fits perfect.

[Chadd 916]

Just curious about the sizing in lengthwise. How much i will get more room after baking? I tried 8 and 8.5. I was wearing a rather thick sock. Size 8 felt a little too snug and 8.5 my toes were feathering the toe cap, and the skate felt comfortable straigth out the box. Would size 8 be good after baking? Really dont mind spending 700 euros too big / small skates. My current s17 size 9r fits perfect.

If you have a wide heel, you will gain more room than if you have a narrow heel. There is no way for us to accurately judge based on someone describing the fit especially when using terms like "too snug" and "thick sock".

[chippa13 1844]

When you say roll it out? Are you talking about the top edge of the boot?

Instead of simply rolling out the top of the boot, I would recommend heating up the entire ankle portion of the boot and then tying the skate being sure to tie all of the upward eyelets to the same tightness. That is what I did with the first pair of Synergy skates that I got way back when. The problem was that the top eyelet was closing more than the couple below it and it was causing the top part of the boot to fold over and dig into my leg.

[Rankin2 2]

When you say roll it out? Are you talking about the top edge of the boot?

this is what I did, heated up the area and folded over. Then tied the "flap" down and threw in freezer for an hour. Hopefully it works. Hopefully you can see it in this

[DigiV 6]

After a solid 8 games in these skates (forget my profile issues) the boot is very nice. However, the overly aggressive pitch is too much for most people i think. Also, the tendon guard is absolutely worthless. It's worthless. That's all there needs to be said.

There is no reason why it's even there unless you weigh less than 150lb and don't lean back at all at any time. They really need to stiffen it up for the next iteration.

[jsykes 35]

Thats the entire point of the tendon guard, that it doesnt restrict any movement and its only there as a GUARD for the tendon. That part of the boot serves no skating purpose other than to protect the tendon.

[jsykes 35]

Thats the entire point of the tendon guard, that it doesnt restrict any movement and its only there as a GUARD for the tendon. That part of the boot serves no skating purpose other than to protect the tendon.