Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[minwookie 0]

I'm 90% sure its gonna fit a tapered blade. If you are unsure, after you make the cut/yank measure the inside width of the shaft, gonna be like 14mm or so for some tapers. Some tapers are smaller like the sherwood 950 tapered (wooden blade).

[fastmiele 59]

has anyone tried cutting a 9kO? If so how did you do it? I figure the rebar trick won't work because of the holes. thanks.

Someone here did a cut and chisel job on theirs. I'm debating doing it to mine, the blade on it is such junk and it would be a cool one-of-a-kind shaft.

I don't think there is enough clearance/space for the tenon to fit inside the 9KO shaft. I was helping someone with their busted stick right at the fuse point. Maybe if you cut down/shorten the tenon on your replacement blade.

http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0358ou3.jpg

http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0372qi6.jpg

[sniper_23 0]

currently trying to convert a broken ops rbk 7k to a shaft/blade combo. problem is the blade side of shaft tapers and wont fit a regular blade unless I cut about a foot off. problem is Im pretty tall guy and cant afford to cut this much off. so I flipped the shaft and put blade in the butt end side and now plan to install a wood extesnion in the tapered end. maybe I will dremel the wood extension down so it will fit. any suggestions?

Won't solve your problem but this is related to the 7K stick.

Blade broke on my 7k so I matched it up with a warrior blade and drew a line where the tenon of the blade starts and cut the blade off there. I carefully thinned out each of the shaft walls with a metal file by hand and eventually the tenon fit in perfectly. It took a while but it was worth it as the performance is pretty much the same as the original OPS.

Hand Tools:

[schrempsky 0]

after not breaking a stick for 19 years, 3 have broken on me in the last 3 weeks.

my 08 dolomite broke in the hosel of the blade yesterday

i remember reading about someone who would simply put the blade in the vice and break the blade and thus would break the seal between the blade and the shaft in the fuse point. would that work for the dolomite because the blades are hollow? i was hoping to get out of cutting it, but if thats what is necessary its what i will do.

[Chadd 916]

currently trying to convert a broken ops rbk 7k to a shaft/blade combo. problem is the blade side of shaft tapers and wont fit a regular blade unless I cut about a foot off. problem is Im pretty tall guy and cant afford to cut this much off. so I flipped the shaft and put blade in the butt end side and now plan to install a wood extesnion in the tapered end. maybe I will dremel the wood extension down so it will fit. any suggestions?

Won't solve your problem but this is related to the 7K stick.

Blade broke on my 7k so I matched it up with a warrior blade and drew a line where the tenon of the blade starts and cut the blade off there. I carefully thinned out each of the shaft walls with a metal file by hand and eventually the tenon fit in perfectly. It took a while but it was worth it as the performance is pretty much the same as the original OPS.

Shaving down the shaft walls usually ends up in disaster.

[minwookie 0]

currently trying to convert a broken ops rbk 7k to a shaft/blade combo. problem is the blade side of shaft tapers and wont fit a regular blade unless I cut about a foot off. problem is Im pretty tall guy and cant afford to cut this much off. so I flipped the shaft and put blade in the butt end side and now plan to install a wood extesnion in the tapered end. maybe I will dremel the wood extension down so it will fit. any suggestions?

Won't solve your problem but this is related to the 7K stick.

Blade broke on my 7k so I matched it up with a warrior blade and drew a line where the tenon of the blade starts and cut the blade off there. I carefully thinned out each of the shaft walls with a metal file by hand and eventually the tenon fit in perfectly. It took a while but it was worth it as the performance is pretty much the same as the original OPS.

Shaving down the shaft walls usually ends up in disaster.

Yeah, the engineer in me thinks you're better off shaving down the tendon. The accountant in me thinks you're better off risking breakage to the cheaper piece (blade opposed to the shaft).

Unless I'm misinterpreting. He might have meant he filed down the walls of the tendon of the old blade so that the new tendon would fit. I considered doing the same when I first cut my Synergy SL shaft at the fuse point and saw the old existing tendon firmly anchored to the shaft walls (and no top so I couldn't poke it out with rebar). I ended up just cutting the shaft where the tendon ended sacrificing a few inches of shaft.

The problem I have with that shaft now, is though only smaller tendons fit (like the sherwood 950 wooden tapered blade that I've fallen in love with), the shaft dimensions seem to expand slightly from the entry point to were the tendons end so that there is a bit of wobble. I've poured some extra glue in there and added a strip of tape to try to help, but having the opening being smaller than further inside the shaft makes it rough to get it to fit tightly and get the tendon in there. I'm thinking that if I had managed to get the old tendon out, that it would fit snug. I'm not sure if I'm explaining myself correctly.

[Rustpot 1]

"Tenon" -no d

That's what chiseling is. You see the top of the old blade, take a hammer and a screw driver or a cold chisel and rip it out with some brute force. I haven't tried the rebar method with Eastons, but I did the same as you with a recent SL conversion. I wasn't happy with the end result and gave it to a friend.

The guy at my LHS did the same and just kept cutting to get a blade to fit when I took in a broken pro stock SL a few years ago.

[sm326 0]

this was the savior of me since ops came out in the nhl and i was able to get my hands on them. i would wind up getting them from the islanders and just having to buy blades. make sure you're careful when chizzeling the blade out because you can crack the walls of the shaft if you're not careful. just get a chizel and a hammer, tap lightly until it flakes off. turn it upside down and all the left over blade will just fall right out.

[sniper_23 0]

currently trying to convert a broken ops rbk 7k to a shaft/blade combo. problem is the blade side of shaft tapers and wont fit a regular blade unless I cut about a foot off. problem is Im pretty tall guy and cant afford to cut this much off. so I flipped the shaft and put blade in the butt end side and now plan to install a wood extesnion in the tapered end. maybe I will dremel the wood extension down so it will fit. any suggestions?

Won't solve your problem but this is related to the 7K stick.

Blade broke on my 7k so I matched it up with a warrior blade and drew a line where the tenon of the blade starts and cut the blade off there. I carefully thinned out each of the shaft walls with a metal file by hand and eventually the tenon fit in perfectly. It took a while but it was worth it as the performance is pretty much the same as the original OPS.

Shaving down the shaft walls usually ends up in disaster.

Yeah, the engineer in me thinks you're better off shaving down the tendon. The accountant in me thinks you're better off risking breakage to the cheaper piece (blade opposed to the shaft).

Unless I'm misinterpreting. He might have meant he filed down the walls of the tendon of the old blade so that the new tendon would fit. I considered doing the same when I first cut my Synergy SL shaft at the fuse point and saw the old existing tendon firmly anchored to the shaft walls (and no top so I couldn't poke it out with rebar). I ended up just cutting the shaft where the tendon ended sacrificing a few inches of shaft.

The problem I have with that shaft now, is though only smaller tendons fit (like the sherwood 950 wooden tapered blade that I've fallen in love with), the shaft dimensions seem to expand slightly from the entry point to were the tendons end so that there is a bit of wobble. I've poured some extra glue in there and added a strip of tape to try to help, but having the opening being smaller than further inside the shaft makes it rough to get it to fit tightly and get the tendon in there. I'm thinking that if I had managed to get the old tendon out, that it would fit snug. I'm not sure if I'm explaining myself correctly.

I was shaving down the inside of the shaft wall. I know it probably wasn't the smartest thing to do but it was already broken so I figured I try something out to try and save the taper of the stick.

The 7K or 7V? stick construction is not a fused shaft and blade so there was a lot of excess composite material inside the shaft when I cut the blade off. I figured I'd try to see if I could get a tapered blade in there without thinning the shaft walls too much and it worked.

[Jackal_17 0]

Just want to know if the Sherwood Momentum X Comp is a fused OPS or not. I have a broken one at my disposal and want to insert a blade in. Do I simply following the steps in this thread?

[AnthonyJTa 0]

I recall the old shop where I got my skates done, he had a lot of these in stock... and he mentioned the kids loved turning them into shafts. I'd take some fine grit sandpaper to the hosel area and look for a line where blade/shaft meet.

[Powerfibers 8]

Doe anyone know if this can be done with a Mission Fuel Ti? Any tips on how to find the point if so? ie., where to sand lightly and look? Thanks,

[AnthonyJTa 0]

I vaguely recall someone mentioning no... mainly because the whole Spearshaft technology taper.

[Rustpot 1]

The taper is probably too thin, like the XXXX. Never hurts to try, cut it low and see if there's evidence of a tenon that can be pulled or chiseled and report back.

[Powerfibers 8]

Thanks guys, I'll take a look today.

[NoAngleDangler 0]

Can it be done with a One90?

[Rustpot 1]

Can it be done with a One90?

One90 is monocomp, not fused. Cut it and try to fit a blade.

[Powerfibers 8]

The taper is probably too thin, like the XXXX. Never hurts to try, cut it low and see if there's evidence of a tenon that can be pulled or chiseled and report back.

I could not find anything "plugged" into the Mission Fuel Ti shaft. Seems like there is no blade/shaft point. Smooth all the way down the inside of the shaft.

[fatwabbit 93]

If the taper is too thin on the XXXX, what about the other Vapor shafts?

[Rustpot 1]

If the taper is too thin on the XXXX, what about the other Vapor shafts?

It's too thin to get the full length out of the shaft, you'd end up cutting 6-10" to get it wide enough. Check the specs, .470 is the XXX/XXXX and .520 is the One90. The former will lose a lot of length, the latter is more traditional and will be easier.

edit; looks like all Vapors are .470 from the XXXX lineup, and all Supremes from both the One90 and One95 lines are .520.

[fatwabbit 93]

Yea, I kinda looked at it that way.. no chance for you to flip the shaft either, as the composite at the butt end doesnt appear to be very thick. I guess you can still do it if you sand the tenon down a little

[Rink Rat 0]

I had a perfectly good dolomite but I wanted to change to blade, I didn't do any research so I tried cutting at the fuse point then pulling at the blade, but it didn't work so I just cut the blade off and put the tapered blade I had before I started doing anything in the other end with some tape to keep it from moving. Then I tried dremel'ing out the rest of the blade in the tapered end but I screwed up and dremel'd all the way through about an inch or less up the shaft, so I just went back to the tapered blade in the butt end. Should I cut it so the shaft is free of cracks and then get the rest of the blade out (how should I do that, more careful dremeling maybe?) then put a composite plug in the end?

[CTHockey 2]

Warrior Dolomites whether pro stock or regular models are by far the easiest stick to turn into a tapered 2 piece. It definitely takes a little time and patients but it will pay off in the end. I simply use a heat gun, small chissel, and a piece of rebar. First i find the fuse point which is extremely noticable on all dolomites and i cut if off at that point, i then heat up the shaft for a few minutes and then i begin to chissel out the leftover blade hosel piece by piece working from the inside out towards the shaft wall. After repeating this process several times the hosel sometimes just losens from the sidewalls and falls right down the shaft. Other times i take a piece of rebar and insert it into the butt end and push the hosel out the other way. I've never messed up on a Dolomite doing it this way and the shaft looks just like the two piece version you can buy when i'm done!

[Rink Rat 0]

So should I cut the bad part off?

Edit: I cut it off, it was like 3/4 of an inch. Then I chiseled out all the remains of the old blade and that weird glue stuff, then I put the new blade in and put a plug measuring about an inch in the butt end, it's perfect now.

[gymmonster 4]

Well I broke my Dolomite one piece a few months ago and I always wanted to put in a tapered blade but had never done anything like this before.

I read up about it on MSH as there are about 2-3 threads with explanations on it but I couldn't find any with pictures so I gave up.

Today I went into my LHS to get my skates sharpened and I saw a vapor xxxx tapered blade on sale for $19 so I figured what the hell why not.

Here are pictures of my experiment.

This is the shaft with the blade cut out

http://members.shaw.ca/geraldkng/dolomite/...090217-1519.jpg

I had originally cut the stick at what I thought was the fuse point, but when i got the blade off the hole for the blade was way too small. I thought I screwed up so I decided to arbitrarily cut the stick at the end of one of the graphics, shown here:

http://members.shaw.ca/geraldkng/dolomite/...090217-1519.jpg

To my surprise when after make two cuts from opposite sides, i was able to pull the smaller section of the shaft out and look what happened:

http://members.shaw.ca/geraldkng/dolomite/...090217-1520.jpg

Here is a picture showing how the piece above used to be part of the shaft, note that the foam popped out with the smaller section:

http://members.shaw.ca/geraldkng/dolomite/...090217-1520.jpg

Here is a picture of the shaft after removing both the blade and the smaller section with the foam:

http://members.shaw.ca/geraldkng/dolomite/...090217-1519.jpg

and last but not least here are pictures with my new two piece dolo with vapor xxxx tapered blade:

http://members.shaw.ca/geraldkng/dolomite/...090217-1527.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/geraldkng/dolomite/...090217-1528.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/geraldkng/dolomite/...090217-1528.jpg

This was probably not the best job and I am a noob at this stuff but the blade fits very very snuggly, (had to apply some decent elbow grease to get the blade in) and all I used was a heat gun to put the new blade in and a hand saw to remove the original blade.

Hope this helps!