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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/19/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Howdy, Is it possible to ban users from specific threads? Mark
  2. 2 points
    Yeah, here are only a couple places/people who do skates well even in Pittsburgh. One is near a rink 30 mins away that we never go to and you need an appt. The other is a specific guy at the rink who is rarely there, and the last i over an hour away. Go to Pure and some guy asks what hollow you want, skates get lined up with 10 other pair with no way to know what skates get which hollow, and two kids manning a machine each do your skates while BSing the whole time. Convenience is by far the #1 motivator. I would love to get a traditional machine just because cause I would enjoy learning to do it but without someone to mentor I don't know if that makes sense.
  3. 2 points
    What a colossel waste of time... Anyway. On the economics or if. That 7, 8 year range is about what I figured. Money wise, I doubt I make my money back. I sharpen for me and maybe a few friends. I never charge. The convince of it though, oh hell yeah. Not having to rely on anyone else is nice and I love having fresh edges. I never put a dollar value to that but it has to be worth something. For me it's always been about the convince and consistency. It's the same edge every time. If they're hosed, its on me.
  4. 2 points
    That’s a great breakdown, and while I agree that you obviously can’t directly correlate time wasted to your hourly salary, my time is definitely worth SOMETHING, and keeping my sanity is worth even more. Not having piss poor sharpening done, or showing up during posted business hours to find the shop closed “because it was slow so the guy went home” after the 30+ minute to drive there. Bottom line, for me: I didn’t buy a Sparx to save money. Not even close.
  5. 2 points
    Those Kings Unis might as well go all the way and have one black glove and one white. I think black glove on the white sleeve, and vice versa, for maximum regrettableness.
  6. 1 point
    With Bauer introducing a 70 flex stick fairly recently, does anyone have any experience moving down from their 77 flex sticks? For some background, I've always felt that Bauer 77 flex sticks to be mildly stiffer than 75 flex CCM's, Warriors, True, etc. as the name implies. I'd prefer to have something slightly whippier than Bauer 77 flex sticks. I'm 5'9" and 195 lbs and played Jr. A hockey so feel comfortable loading up a stick. I'm not taking slapshots or one timers anymore as I'm just playing in men's leagues now. I also cut down my stick fairly short for someone that's only 5'9". I don't want to buy a 70 flex stick only for it to feel like a flimsy intermediate stick. Is the 70 flex stick THAT much whippier compared to 77 flex? Any thoughts on 70 flex sticks much appreciated!
  7. 1 point
    Okay guys just leave it alone. Don’t feed trolls. We don’t need to waste another four pages on this. At this point it doesn’t benefit anyone to reply to ridiculous statements.
  8. 1 point
    The kick point on the 70 flex Flylite changes the feeling entirely when compared to the 68 flex TRUE.
  9. 1 point
    I know this post was created a while ago but hopefully I'll be able to tell you soon I can't say right now bc I haven't used the Bauer or CCM se 70s but just ordered one. I've used the 68 true intermediate which is good but felt a touch too whippy for me. I usually use 75/77 in other brands. The good thing about the Sr 70 flex is that it's the regular 60" length so you cut it down the same amount. So in theory it should only feel about five flex points diff which would prob be the right amount you're looking for. When I cut down my Bauer 77s it was at the 84 mark on the stick. For the 70 it looks like it'll be about the 75 ish mark which is what I want. I want a 75 flex that's already cut. With my true intermediate it's 2 inches shorter than standard senior sticks so I only had to cut it about 1/2 an inch so that made it only 70-72 flex cut.
  10. 1 point
    Or maybe a chunky two-tone glove like the old Flaks. Or shiny silver gloves. The aftermarket demand for those would be insane. So would the durability, I’m guessing.
  11. 1 point
    Or Barge cement thin leather over the wear area.
  12. 0 points
    to keep this simple for you 1. a vastly differing number of sharpenings on the packaging may seem dubious for a non blind consumer that actually pays a lot of money for these rings 2. again and again... the total number of cycles has nothing to do with the amount of material a "newer" 60 sharpenings 1/2, 3/8...ring may be able to remove in one cycle vs. an "older" 40 sharpenings 1/2, 3/8,11/16, 5/8... ring therefore 40 vs 60 doable sharpenings are perfectly possible and I truly want this to be proofed with data.( you can switch "newer" and "older" around. choose for yourself. no one knows for sure) 3. All I want from them is to come out on their website and publish information on the fact that both variants are in circulation, and as I've already said, proof the fact that an "older production" 1/2 ring will yield the same number of sharpenings, under isolated conditions, compared to the "new" 1/2 ring. Additionally,it remains to be proven if it takes the same amount of cycles with the "newer production/new packaging" 1/2'' rings to reach the desired radius of hollow than with the lesser agressive 11/16,5/8...1 inch rings in the "old packaging". All of these tests have to be done under isolated conditions, using new identical blades. This would help us to make a qualified buying decision in the future. Maybe there are some differences maybe not? how can we know this as consumers? The goal here is that nobody has to feel like a piece of crap after spending 200$ including shipping on two of these rings just to find out that the stated number of sharpenings varies by 33% from ring to ring. that's it. As long as these things aren't published and proved, I'm awaiting a serious apology from their side. I just had to answer on that. no worries,I'll discuss the rest with Sparx directly.



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