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fastmiele

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Everything posted by fastmiele

  1. good for you, you used a bit of creativity and managed to save a bit of the taper. My friend had limited tools so a little bit of the taper was lost.
  2. I don't know if you care to preserve as much of the taper as possible, but you are going to have to use a dremel/file. I was with a friend and he didn't have a file, so we kept cutting until there was no more tenon inside the tapered shaft. When we put in a tapered blade, it went in quite easily so had to put a piece of tape over the tenon to make it fit good. So I figured we could of saved an extra inch or so of the taper if we used a dremel/file.
  3. no problem, just did one a couple of weeks ago. I cut it off at the fuse point and continued to cut upwards until I got the 14mm x 26mm internal shaft measurement. http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index...7494&st=180 go to posting # 191 for pictures.
  4. hmm, i figured you would be using a slr camera. Some of those pictures look pretty sharp. Also, its kind of hard to snap 436 pictures with a point and shoot camera. i don't know if you have any interest in trying to take action pictures, but you definitely need a slr camera to freeze the action.
  5. How many are actual keepers? Gotta love digital....take pics EVERYTHING and sort it out later. That an expensive practice if you're buying film. just out of curiousity, what camera were you using ?
  6. Someone here did a cut and chisel job on theirs. I'm debating doing it to mine, the blade on it is such junk and it would be a cool one-of-a-kind shaft. I don't think there is enough clearance/space for the tenon to fit inside the 9KO shaft. I was helping someone with their busted stick right at the fuse point. Maybe if you cut down/shorten the tenon on your replacement blade. http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0358ou3.jpg http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0372qi6.jpg
  7. My wife calls the basement my laboratory.... your lucky your wife lets you hold/keep this stuff. some think its just clutter/garbage and can't stand the look of it. Out it goes ASAP.
  8. its tough to say whether there was a crack there or not, but I did that once. The fit was a bit too tight and I continued to force it in. After a couple sessions of hockey and I noticed cracks going up the shaft. I would say that any time you have to use excessive force its probably not good. Wait....don't bring it tonight - you can still save it!, by cutting a little bit off the end, so there is no more cracks - then maybe put a longer plug in the butt end...I bet you only have to cut maybe 1/2" or so off. Its your choice man, but it prolly still have a little life in it.... Also if its a "tight fit" you can sand down the taper a little bit to make it fit, that is how I make my "standard" Sherwoods 950's fit in the Easton taper...lill elbow grease. there is possibility that it wasn't the right size anyways so its better to continue cutting more off the end. Might be safer to cut more than 1/2 inch off.
  9. I don't suppose you measured the inside length and width before you inserted the blade in ? I am curious to see if you cut enough off. You need 14 mm X 26 mm (in most cases).
  10. One thing I would not recommend is trying to heat and pull this stuff out by yourself. You can really hurt yourself even if two people are involved. I once asked my friend to help pull one way and I pull the other way and he thought it was kind of stupid and possibly dangerous. So he recommended me to rest the inner elbow of the blade on top of a doorknob. One person would pull down on the blade while the other person would pull away on the shaft. I have to say it worked pretty well. http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn9837kw3.jpg Not too sure but it has worked several times. It seems to make it easier. I think just breaking up the layer of resin where the blade/shaft meet helps just enough to pull it out. Like I said that stuff doesn't melt - you're basically forcing it out. I wonder what the inside dimensions would be at the fuse point ? Still 14 mm X 26 mm ? Keeps the cracked glue/resin from sliding up and down the shaft and making noise. I guess I should of known a little better. How much shock absorption could the fluff sponge do anyways ? Probably minimal.
  11. You can definitely pull the blades out of an R+. Here is the process I've used for 3 of these sticks. 1) Find the fuse point - the hairline crack near the bottom around the shaft 2) Cut about the depth of the shaft around the fuse point - this removes the epoxy/resin they use to fuse the shaft/blade together at the fuse point - you should be able to see the blade tenon at this point 3) Heat it up 4) Secure the shaft with some clamps and pull the blade out If that fails heat it up more and it will eventually come right out. interesting, so you took a hacksaw and started cutting around the fuse point until you hit the tenon. So after you heated it up and pulled out the blade, is it possible for you measure the length and width inside the shaft (is it 14 mm X 26 mm) ? Exactly 14mm by 26mm. Cutting around the the shaft made pulling the blades out easier for me. Actually here is a picture of the R+ blade I pulled out. The line at the bottom was where the fuse point was - It probably didn't pull out the 1st time so I cut an inch higher and it came out smoothly following the process I outlined above. The resin on the blade definitely doesn't melt like normal stick glue so you have to pull it with quite a bit of force before it comes out of the shaft. wow, unbelievable. I can't believe what I am seeing. I think most people would of cut off another 2-3 inches after not being able to pull out the blade the first time. How much heat did you need to apply ? Also did you get any help with one person pulling the shaft and another pulling the blade ? Is that a wood blade ? The tenon looks like wood. Thanks for posting your pictures. It helps us other people. I wonder why it would not pull out at the fuse point but pull out if you cut another 1 inch higher ? The greyish fluf I believe is a soft sponge for shock absorption. I don't think taking a true tapered shaft and matching up with a broken OPS will work because I think many OPS have different dimension specifications.
  12. You can definitely pull the blades out of an R+. Here is the process I've used for 3 of these sticks. 1) Find the fuse point - the hairline crack near the bottom around the shaft 2) Cut about the depth of the shaft around the fuse point - this removes the epoxy/resin they use to fuse the shaft/blade together at the fuse point - you should be able to see the blade tenon at this point 3) Heat it up 4) Secure the shaft with some clamps and pull the blade out If that fails heat it up more and it will eventually come right out. interesting, so you took a hacksaw and started cutting around the fuse point until you hit the tenon. So after you heated it up and pulled out the blade, is it possible for you measure the length and width inside the shaft (is it 14 mm X 26 mm) ?
  13. this may or may not help you. One factor is the length of the tenon inside the shaft. I was just measuring some of the tenon lengths of my replacement blades and they are pretty close to the total amount I cut off from the fuse point. http://img204.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tenonrr9.jpg http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl4bm3.jpg different brand/companies will obviously have different lengths/measurements.
  14. that's what I always wondered myself. There should be some space/air at the end of the tenon inside the shaft, but I never had any problems so I left it as is. I got a blade or two where someone cut off part of the tenon. I guess it was for this reason to increase flex. Either that or reduce weight or improve balance.
  15. http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl4bm3.jpg (Final Line Up - 14 mm X 26 mm) I've thought more about what you have here. Would it be possible to make this really easy algebra? Ideal inside diameter is 14 x 26mm. How about something like this (assuming consistent shaft wall thickness) Inside diameter + 2x Wall thickness = Outside Diameter Take out plug and micrometer to get wall thickness. Add 2x that measurement to the 14 x 26 mm to get ideal OD. Measure with the micrometer along the outside of the shaft to the target number and cut! I'm trying to think of the quickest and easiest way without cutting off too much. This is just an idea. I'm a newbie here as far as posting, so I'm jut trying to contribute. what a great idea, I was thinking something along the same line, but I didn't have a micrometer. It should work, try it on some broken OPS that you don't care too for and see what happens. I am interested in seeing how close you are.
  16. based on my cuttings, if you cut enough off then I don't see any problem, but if you cut off low and start dremeling then you may have thinner than normal wall thickness (which may be prone to splitting). personally, if you get some experience cutting the shafts its not that much trouble. I have to say it was a bit of headache with cutting and measuring the first couple of shafts but now it seems pretty straightforward. Start off with your worst/least valauble broken OPS
  17. I also found that Mission and Easton tapered blades had wider/thicker tenons compared to TPS tensons. Maybe 1 mm thicker.
  18. Okay, I finally decided to give a try at this "cutting OPS" and see if I could get a Synthesis shaft out a broken Synergy. I got 2 broken Synergy SL's (1 pro stock - blue no grip and 1 retail red with grip). I cut them off at the fuse point and used a dremel to remove as much of the tenon as possible. I also used a chisel to file it down inside. After finishing dremeling them I looked at the ends and there was no way a senior tapered blade was going to fit in. It simply looked too narrow/tight so that's when I came up a brillant idea, I took a ruler and matched it up with my Easton T-flex and Synthesis shafts. I measured along the the inside edges to find the length and width. Although each is slightly different, the approximate length and width is 14 mm X 26 mm (the same dimenision as a tapered tenon). So I take a look at my dremeled and filed down Synergy and it measures out at 12 mm which is approximately 2 mm too narrow/tight so either I must continue to file down or cut further up. It is not really possible to continue filing/dremel the shaft because the wall will be razor thin. I start making small cuts up the shaft and measuring the width inside. I kept on cutting until there was no more tenon inside, at that point the area of the shaft was able to fit a 14 mm X 26 mm tenon. So the final result of my test is that the shafts and blades used to make a Synergy OPS is NOT the same as a Synthesis shaft and Synthesis blade. The best advice I can give people is to keep cutting until you get a length and width dimension of 14 mm X 26 mm (varies from brand to brand and also no two shaft and blade will have exact same measurements). Never mind about looking and copying other people at where they cut. http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cuttingops1ti0.jpg (The Line Up) http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cuttingops2ff6.jpg http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nthesis2po7.jpg (length of Synthesis shaft - 26 mm) http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...ynthesissc4.jpg (width of Synthesis shaft - 14 mm) http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...ynergyslzb6.jpg (Synergy SL - width at the fuse point - 12 mm - way too narrow/tight) http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl2ue5.jpg http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl3bx4.jpg (after 1 cut - 13 mm - still too narrow/tight for tapered blade - need 14 mm) http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl4bm3.jpg (Final Line Up - 14 mm X 26 mm)
  19. Yeah, haha. I was laughing my head off. I had my back turned to the tv and reading some threads and when they announced the name "David Perron" it immediately caught my attention. Congratulations.
  20. yes, you should be punished for that many sticks. I will come by and help take some away for you :lol: anyhow, to answer your question. I know a couple of possible answers. Its the same answer to why do some girls need more than 100 pairs of shoes ? One is variety. The other is the same as stereo hi-fi lovers, they are always in the search of the best sound and perfection. Of course, they will never find it. Hence the never ending search for the Holy Grail.
  21. I was told that most helmets are modified by players and no longer certified safe to wear.
  22. the leafs already had 2, 1 at centre sports at the acc, then 2 with the marlies (with everything that didnt sell at the acc) when was this ? the acc had one a few years ago. Nothing since then. I don't remember the Marlies having one either. This is their first year in existence. I posted one about the Marlies. It was a week or two back. I'd like to get down to one of the Leafs ones, but I bet they have all of their non-used sticks in center sports right now anyways. If you are thinking of going please PM me... about either Center sports or for other people in the MTL area going to the Habs sale. hmm. I must of missed this. Its kind of funny because I went to go watch the Marlies playoff game on Monday and I went to the team store and I asked them about player equipment and the supervisor said that they don't sell game used equipment. Go figure. There's nothing special at the ACC either - $129 plus tax for most OPS (game used).
  23. I hope its not inside the "team store" as it states. That is one small team store.
  24. the leafs already had 2, 1 at centre sports at the acc, then 2 with the marlies (with everything that didnt sell at the acc) when was this ? the acc had one a few years ago. Nothing since then. I don't remember the Marlies having one either. This is their first year in existence.
  25. patience, you might get lucky. I remember them on sale for $99 at Christmas. They had all those common patterns - P13,27,28,etc
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