althoma1

I started to see TF9 retail player boots in stores in July of 2020; so I'd expect the CAT9 will be released around July 2022.

Well, I wear 10W dress shoes and 10 sandals and have a pair of converted TF9 inline skates in 7W. They felt too small at first, but after baking and about 10 hours of skating they feel like the right length. I scan a 7.5 Fit 3 on the Bauer scanner. So, based on your Bauer and shoe size I'd recommend a 7 TF9. With that said, I wear 8EE Mako II skates. If you should've been in 8.5 Makos then perhaps a 7.5 is the way to go. With the 30 day guarantee, trying either size isn't that risky. Just make sure they're properly baked and you wear them for several hours before deciding if they're the right size.

If your length is right with 7.5 Bauer skates, I think you should try a size 7 True skate. It just sounds like the Bauer models are just too narrow where the toe cap meets the boot. The Trues are wider in that area. The 7 True will certainly feel too small before baking and you'll have to completely undo the top two laces and twist your foot in even after baking, but from what you're describing it sounds like you may be better off in a 7 True than a 7.5 after baking and break in. If you want to try the 7.5 first, it's low risk since you can return them within 30 days if they end up being too big, but if that happens, I'd try a 7 before spending the money on a custom skate.

It's not surprising that 7.5 skates from Bauer and CCM would be too small if it looks like you need a 7.5 True. For most people, after a proper bake, the True retail player skates fit at least a half size longer than current CCM and Bauer skates in the same size. So, if the 7.5 True retail skates end up being the right size for you, you'd likely need at least an 8 in CCM/Bauer. It's great you tried on so many pairs though. I also agree that being able to bake and try skates before being stuck with them is fantastic and am happy to see CCM and True offering satisfaction guarantees.

I have 8EE Mako II's and scan as a 7.5 Fit 3 or EE in Bauer skates. I went with a 7W TF9 for a roller conversion. Before baking the 7W felt too short and my toes were hard against the cap. After baking, they were still a little more than feathering, but after about 20 hours of use, they now feel like they're feathering (although, they're still a hair more snug than my Makos. I also prefer the toe box of the Makos to the toe box of the TF9 - it feels more comfortable for my foot and is also slightly lower profile). For me, it feels like the TF9s fit about 3/4 size longer than Makos in the same size. So, a 7.5 TF9 will fit similar in length to an 8.25 Mako and an 8 TF9 is more like an 8.75 Mako. So if you want a very snug performance fit, I'd lean toward the 7.5 - just be prepared that it'll feel way too small before baking, but will open up after baking and break in. If you go with the 8, you likely won't be able to touch the toe cap at all after baking and break in if you're just feathering the cap now.

Looking at your scan and the fact that you want a wider skate that's high cut, I'd suggest you go try on some intermediate CCM FT4/FT4 Pros and Ribcore 90K/100K in 5.5 Wide. The new CCM lines are now offered in tapered, regular and wide. You could try Tacks in 5.5 EE as well (the tacks line doesn't have the 3 new fits yet). The CCMs also offer a 90 day satisfaction guarantee with participating retailers (True offers 30 days). Bauer doesn't have any guarantee; so, it's lower risk to try the CCM options first and if they don't work you can move on to other brands...I think for what you seek, CCM may be the best option anyway.

Unfortunately, I believe the TF9 Junior sizes only come in standard width. If you're a Fit3 Bauer and EE in Tacks, I think you'd need a W in the TF9. The smallest size that comes in W in the TF9 is 6. 6 will definitely be too long for you. You'd likely need a 5 in length if you want a performance fit after baking or a 5.5 if you want a little room, but I think the R width would likely be too narrow even after baking. Also, the TF9 skates are lower cut than Bauer. So, if a high cut boot is what you're after, I don't think a TF9 is the answer.

Yes, the same applies to a double minor. On a game sheet, a double minor is actually recorded as two separate line items. A double minor to a player on team A can be cancelled out by minors committed by two different players on team B at the same stoppage. That could have been the situation in the original scenario. The player could have received a double minor for a single infraction or it could have been a minor for roughing and another for unsportsmanlike conduct. Either scenario would be recorded as 2+2.

This might help. Criteria for using both coincidental minors and majors - MOTO 1) M Cancel as Many penalties as possible. 2) O Cancel in a way to make them only One player short. 3) T Cancel in a way to avoid Taking an extra player off the ice. 4) O Cancel using the Order of occurrence, or the order that the penalties were reported by the Referee. Note: Start by cancelling majors, then do minors. There are more details on this page (it's a Hockey Canada page. There are rule differences between USA Hockey and Hockey Canada, but in this case, I believe the rule would be the same) along with several examples: http://rulebook.hockeycanada.ca/english/section-4/rule-4-2/ There's even a specific example that's similar to the first part of your question: iii) A6 - 2 B11 - 2 + 2 A7 - 2 Immediate Substitution - Full Strength. So, each team takes 2 minors during the same stoppage. The difference is, with one team, it was the same player that took both penalties and on the other team it was two different penalties. I think that's what tripped you up, but using MOTO, you cancel as many penalties as possible and avoid taking extra players off the ice. You cancel all the penalties, nothing goes on the clock, play continues 5 on 5 and the players who got the minors sit 2 and a whistle and the player that received two minors sits for 4 and a whistle.

At the 3 minute mark team A takes 2 minor penalties and team B also takes 2 minor penalties. They should cancel each other out and the teams would still be playing 5 on 5 at that point. The team A player would have to sit 4 minutes and a whistle and the team B players would both sit 2 and a whistle, but no time would go on the clock. Then, at 4:00 minutes team A gets another minor penalty. It's now 5 on 4 for team B. When team B scores at 4:45, they're on the PP. Player X still has to sit in the box for at least another 2:15 (they'll be out at the first whistle after the 7 minute mark). Player Z only has 1:15 left on their penalty. Player Z would come out of the box.

I haven't bought custom Trues, but I do know that True has a 30 day satisfaction guarantee on the TF9s and TF7s. You could buy wide and see if those will work for you. You can use them for a couple of weeks anyway - if your customs come in then you can just return them for a full refund. If somehow your custom order wasn't processed properly then perhaps you can get a refund on that if the TF7s or TF9s in W work for you feet (they're fairly wide in the forefoot, but still provide good heel lock...they aren't Nexus EE wide though).

@Miller55, I definitely have the newer A6X (just called the A6, but the X was used before the launch). I used to have the OG A6 and the new rocker arms are way more durable than the old ones, but the front part of the chassis itself eventually gets friction wear if you don't clean it all the time. It may take several years for some people, but I was reffing a few nights a week and some tournaments on them, in addition to playing at least once a week, so I probably put more wear on them than the average person. The A6X on my OG Makos probably saw 3 years of use and now are quite loose where the front rocker arms are installed (they easily move back and forth by hand). The ones on the M7 were only used for about a year before everything shut down due to COVID and are still quite snug. I think using the R1's outside and saving the Sprungs for indoor play is a good plan. I'm glad to hear that Keith is still working on the Fizix chassis and I hope they're mass produced sooner rather than later. I agree that those on a monocoque boot would be amazing. I'd definitely order them.

I've played in two outdoor pickup games since my last post and have some more thoughts on Sprungs vs. the R1. For the first session I skated on a True TF9/Marsblade R1 setup for about 45 minutes and a Mako M7/Sprung setup for over an hour. The Sprungs on the M7 are in good condition and don't have much friction wear. For the second skate, I skated about 2 hours with an older OG Mako/Sprung setup where the Sprung chassis has quite a bit of friction wear and movement on the front and the boots are a little softer. The R1's didn't feel quite as mobile as the Sprungs and were noticeably heavier. They do grip well and still allow for full stride extension. I felt I could turn a little tighter and stopping was second nature in the Sprungs (I've used Sprungs for a decade though; so am very used to them). I also felt faster in the fresh Sprungs with better starts. It's also possible I preferred Sprung setup more because the toe box on the 8EE Makos are very comfortable for me, but I'm getting a little pressure behind the toes in the 7W TF9s. So, after that night, I thought, "man, I may want to stock up on some more Sprungs as I really prefer them to the R1." I had second thoughts after the skate with the old Sprungs though. The older, worn in Sprungs felt much slower than both the newer Sprungs and the R1, I felt less stable and also felt a bit less grip (using the same wheels on the same surface as I did with the M7 setup). The loose front rockers are likely what caused this - the arms were moving too much for the front part of the suspension to function properly. So my feeling now is that the Sprungs are amazing when new, but you really have to maintain them. Once they get friction wear and the front loosens up, they feel slower and less responsive. I don't think the R1 performs quite as well as brand new Sprungs, but they're still good and I think they'll probably hold up better in the long run. The R1 does outperform an older Sprung chassis with friction wear. The ultimate solution would be an alloy version of Sprungs. I know there are plans for that on the Fizix FB page, but there haven't been any updates on that page since Nov of last year. Hopefully Keith finds the funds or right partner(s) to get that produced one day, but I'm not counting on that. So, right now, you could either buy as many Sprung chassis in your size as you can, maintain them (take them apart and clean them often), and replace them as needed or go with the R1. I think the Sprungs, when new, provide the ultimate performance, but they do require work to maintain and even with that will only last a few years of heavy playing before they start to loosen up. Parts also aren't being produced for them anymore. With the R1 you get a chassis that offers good performance (even if it's a touch less than new Sprungs IMHO), but will likely last longer, require less maintenance, are still being made and have a healthy company behind them that will be able to offer support and parts. Oh, one other note - when I first started using Sprungs I used the same hardness of wheels as my old chassis. The Sprungs felt slower as the suspension adds more natural grip when working properly. When I moved to harder wheels the Sprungs felt better - they still gripped, but offered good speed with harder wheels. Make sure to use harder wheels with Sprungs than you would with a HI-LO or all 80mm setups. On Sport Court for example, if you were using 76a wheels, make sure to bump that up to 78a with Sprungs (or go from +1 to +2 on the Konixx scale). For outdoors, if you were using 83a Labeda Asphalts, go to 85a Asphalts ect.

I haven't tried on Fit 3 skates, I know older EE Supremes were wider in the heel and mid-foot than a EE Mako, but narrower in the toe cap. EE Supremes felt a little tight in the toe box for me and too loose in the heel, but EE Makos locked in my heel and were super comfortable in the toe box. On the other hand, a D Nexus 800 I tried on felt too wide everywhere (toe box, heel, mid foot). Are the Fit 3 Bauer skates wider everywhere vs. a EE Mako or just in the heel and mid-foot like old EE Supremes? I'm not in the market for new Bauer skates at the moment, but your comment piqued my curiosity. On another note, some people say the True W skates have the widest toe box currently available. I've only worn my converted True 7W skates a few times, but compared to my 8EE Makos, my experience is: The boot depth is the same The True skates have an even tighter heel lock and get a better wrap in the mid-foot using the luggage wrap after baking The number on the skates is a full size different, but in reality, after baking both, the 7W Trues only feel about a quarter size shorter than the 8EE Makos The toe box on the EE Makos feels wider and more comfortable for me - there's a pressure spot for me with the Trues just below the toes (basically the widest part of my forefoot). I love the fit everywhere else, but could use a bit more room there. I've already rebaked them once, I may try spot heating the area and pushing it out and will try lacing the bottom laces looser. I don't know if the spot heating will help since it's in the toe box area. I may need to go with a 7.5W True even though I like the length of the 7W (toes against the cap with zero negative space, but not bent or crushed. There's also some foam on the cap that will probably break in with time giving a mm or two of space. That likely won't help with the width though). I'm also comparing the toe box width of skates that are a full size different from each other though.

100%. Square up, get your stick on the ice on your side of the dot and go. When officiating beer league I definitely don't keep track of which team is home and away as there's no line change procedures or any of that. I should've thought of that in my first post. Completely on point. Anyone complaining about the visiting team not putting their stick down first would be laughed at - you might as well complain about the home team getting the last line change that that point. If a player isn't putting their stick on the ice at all before a faceoff or is turning their body sideways; those are legitimate gripes. Even in high level travel hockey, squaring up and getting sticks on the ice on their side of the dot are the key points for the centers. The rest is more about making sure the other players aren't entering the faceoff circle early. Who puts their stick down first usually doesn't matter as the puck isn't supposed to be dropped until both players have their sticks on the dot, are squared up and stationary; so, it should be a fair draw regardless of who put their stick down first.

For Hockey Canada faceoff rules and procedures, read through this: http://rulebook.hockeycanada.ca/english/section-10/rule-10-2/#:~:text=A face-off shall take,sticks flat on the ice. The visiting team is always supposed to put their stick down first, but that's just one of several rules. Other key items include players lining up square across from each other (a player shouldn't be lined up sideways - their feet should be shoulder width apart and their toes should be pointed forward) and the players sticks should be in the white crescent on their side of the dot (most rinks in Canada have these white crescents on all the dots except center).

You're right that the True girdle is similar to the Warrior, but has a bit more protection in some areas. It does have an adjustable strap for the thigh pads, but one thing it doesn't have, that the Warrior does have, is an adjustable belt. It's only secured at the waist by a thick, stretchy velcro strap. This hasn't been a problem for me so far and I can use the belt on some of my shells to tighten things up a bit if necessary, but I don't know if it'll be an issue if it loosens up long term. The Warrior QRE just has a belt. I haven't used that one, but I've seen it and tried it on and wouldn't be as worried about that slipping. The old Warrior Projekt had a strap with elastic similar to the True, plus a belt (the stock belt was too short, but once that was replaced it was great) - it also has the straps on the thigh pads. I do like the True so far after wearing it again last Friday, but the lack of a belt and having it slide down after it stretches out a bit is a bit of a concern. It hasn't been an issue thus far though and I suppose one could use the shell attachment points (meant for the stock True shell and other shells that can attach with velcro loops) to thread a belt through if needed. The True feels slightly more protective and more ventilated than the Projekt, but is also slightly bulkier and weighs a touch more. My old Projekt was a little stretched out after several years of use when I switched to the True and I'd have to tighten the belt once in a while, but it took years for that to happen. When new, the Projekt is very snug and form fitting - it's also less bulky than both the Covert QRE and True girdles, but still has enough protection for beer league. If you can find one new or very gently used in your size, the Projekt is worth a look. I saw one on Sideline that the seller says they only used a couple times. It's a medium, which would be too small for me, but if that's your size, it's something to consider: https://sidelineswap.com/gear/hockey/pants-girdles-shells/girdles/2341292-warrior-senior-medium-projekt-girdle

The length of the large is perfect for me, but I am 6'2". They don't seem any longer than my large Warrior Projekts.

I'm also interested in hearing @datsvechkin's thoughts on Sprungs vs. the R1. I'll provide my general impressions as I have also used both. I've used Sprungs for well over a decade, most recently with Easton Mako M7s. I've only skated R1's twice that are on True TF9 boots - I hope to give these a better work out and play some pickup games soon, but my general impressions after briefly using both back to back were: The R1 was a bit heavier and I could tell the difference when I wore the two skates back to back. The Sprungs felt a little more mobile and I had better control for turns and stops, but the R1 is still good for turns and stops and is better than a flat chassis. The R1 and Sprungs both allow for a full stride extension unlike a more traditional flat chassis The movement in the R1 was less noticeable than with Sprungs (that's also comparing new R1's to used Sprungs though) The R1's had a more robust and solid feel - I think they'll hold up better long term. So far, I like the Sprung feel a little more, however; I still liked the R1 much better than from what I recall of using an older flat chassis or the ancient Tuuk Rocker. An alloy version of the Sprungs would be ideal, but I don't know if the planned Fizix frames will ever happen since the FB page hasn't been updated in almost a year. With that said, I think the R1's are the best current alternative to Sprungs and seem like they'll be more durable (it's hard to be sure as I've only skated twice on them and I did read about people that had some issues with the early versions of the plastic portion. Apparently, they've reformulated the plastic resin to eliminate those issues and they did take care of the people that had breakage issues). I definitely prefer the R1 to any of the non-Sprung alternatives. Keep in mind, this is only my initial impression after only two light skates with the R1. What I'm thinking of trying to do is go to a couple pickup sessions with both skates and switching skates part way through. Getting a feel for both back to back during game play will give me a better idea of how they compare.

I haven't used the Stark pads, but came across them and the company in another thread on this site a couple years ago and thought they looked interesting. It's a Quebec based company that was founded by Michel Paul who also founded MIA and used to work for Warrior and Sherwood in high level positions. I'm very happy with my Verbero Shield pads (which are based on the Farrell pads I used to own); so, haven't had a reason to try the Stark pads. Here's a thread from a couple years ago discussing a few men's league shoulder pad/padded shirt options (the closest thing to the CCM U+ CL mentioned would be the new FT4 Pro pads):

I used the Warrior Projekt for years and it served me well. You can still find a few on Sideline once in a while. I picked up a True XC9 last year, but have only used it twice due to the covid restrictions in my area. I will finally be able to use it again this week. Compared to the Projekt, it's a little bulkier and more protective, but is still fairly light, mobile and well ventilated. The other girdle I was seriously considering was the Covert. I think the Covert is a good choice if you already tried it and like the way it feels. I probably would have picked it up, but came across a great deal on eBay on the True girdle. For shoulders, I love my Verbero Shield pads with the caps removed. They're very adjustable, modular and super mobile. https://www.verbero.com/products/shield-hockey-shoulder-pads If the Verbero Shield was no longer an option, I would consider these: https://starkhockey.com/products/dc9-stark-naked-shoulder-pad

It's great you found a helmet that fits and feels good. I haven't tried the Tacks 710 myself, but I've read rave reviews from people that have used one. When I'm in the market for a new helmet, it's certainly one I'll have to try. For elbows that aren't bulky and feel like they're already broken in, check out the STX Surgeon line. I tried on the old STX Surgeon 500s, they were low profile, comfortable and mobile - almost as nice as my Warrior Projekts. The Surgeon RX3 is the updated version of what I tried on and there's been plenty of positive feedback from people who have used those. You'd have to order directly from STX, but they have a 14 day trial offer for their top end pads and they're also less than $100 US (which is much cheaper than top end pads from Bauer or CCM). There's a review here on the step down RX3.1 pads (no 14 day guarantee on that model. The pads are the same design, but the RX3 is lighter with higher end foam):

I gave up on the inserts on my TF9 roller conversions. The insert kept coming off when I removed the insoles. I ended up forgetting one insert at home for one skate and actually found the skate with no insert more comfortable. The next skate, I went without the inserts and don't think I am going back.

Helmets, whatever fits best, but I'd definitely try on the following: CCM Tacks 910 and 710 - I haven't used or tried on either, but I've heard plenty of positive comments from those who have used them Warrior Alpha One Pro - a one piece helmet with a convenient adjustment dial. Also, more affordable than some of the other options (still not super cheap, but less than half the price of some top end helmets). I owned one briefly, and it was comfortable, but I preferred my old Easton E700s and went back to those. The E700 is my favourite helmet, but it hasn't been produced in 5+ years, so I'll have to move on eventually (I do have a few of them). CCM Fitlite 3DS - on clearance now. I tried one once and it felt good on my head. It has a nice adjustment dial. True Dynamic 9 - it's a one piece helmet like my beloved E700, but not as light. I prefer the Gyro adjustments of the E700 to the padding with different thicknesses on the Dynamic 9 though. Plus, the super expensive, if money was no object helmets: CCM Super Tacks X - it looks very interesting and the feedback from those who have tried them is great, but $400US/$500CAD for a helmet is tough to stomach The upcoming Bauer Hyperlite (launching July 30) looks somewhat reminiscent to the E700, so I'd try that on. It's not as expensive as the Super Tacks X, but still isn't cheap at around $350 CAD (assuming $299US) For elbows, I love my 2012 Warrior Projekts and still have two pairs, but if I was looking for new ones, I like the mobility of 3 piece pads and would look at: Warrior Alpha DX on clearance or the new Alpha LX Pro - three piece pad with an elbow sleeve. STX Surgeon RX3 - a three piece pad with an elbow sleeve. You won't find them in stores, but they sell direct on the STX website for much less than the regular price of other top end pads. The Bauer Supreme Ultrasonic - they're pretty pricey at $180 CAD, but it is a 3 piece pad and the protection looks quite good. I'd try it on before making a decision. For shins, I like my CCM RBZ shins, but when it's time to replace them, I'd try on as many as I could. These are a few that have caught my eye: CCM FT4 Pro - the shell design looks somewhat similar to my RBZ's Warrior Alpha DX or the new LX Pro - anatomical and streamlined

Too strong a concentration of rubbing alcohol isn't great for rubber and plastic. Alcohol does kill bacteria and viruses much faster than peroxide (seconds vs. minutes), but can be harsh. Peroxide takes longer to work, but doesn't seem to damage rubber or plastic. Alcohol also evaporates faster; sometimes too quickly for hard surfaces like plastics. Hydrogen Peroxide can kill mold and bacterial spores. Alcohol is also more effective on some viruses and hydrogen peroxide is more effective on others: Isopropyl alcohol is more effective against lipid viruses including hepatitis B and C, HIV, influenza, and respiratory syncytial virus, whereas hydrogen peroxide – against non-enveloped viruses, like rotavirus, coxsackieviruses, or poliovirus. https://blog.fantasticservices.com/hydrogen-peroxide-vs-isopropyl-alcohol-what-to-use-for-disinfection/ https://www.healthline.com/health/rubbing-alcohol-vs-hydrogen-peroxide#bottom-line https://www.webmd.com/first-aid/difference-between-rubbing-alcohol-hydrogen-peroxide#:~:text=Hydrogen peroxide is another antiseptic,alcohol does to kill germs.