Mimizk

Thank you Buzz, ProSharp is great company. In this case, I'd like to make sure about what you would have recommended me. Your pasted link shows a leather horn. But also ProSharp uses a ceramic horning stone before that to deburr for the coating blade. So I guess the ProSharp's leather horn / leather strop works as wipe off the slightly stayed burr at last rather than main deburring. Do you use the ProSharp leather horn alone? Or with ceramic horning stone?

Thank you guys, I've read your posts. To sum it up... 1) It can deburr with cheaper thing even if it is a gummi like material stone. 2) So there is less value to pay expensive money for genuine stones for example SPARX or STEP's. 3) Fine ceramic honing stone is also better as gummi stone. ...right?

I'm going to buy a honing stone which can be used for coated skate blades like STEP Black Steel. I could find some rubber or clay honing stones below though, which one is better choice? I'd like to hear someone's favorite. 1) SPARX "Coated Steel Kit" 2) Max-Performance Sports "Clay Honing Stone for Hockey Blacksteel Runners" 3) Wholesale Skate Sharpening "Blacksteel Hone - Rubber" 4) CCM (STEP) "Honing Stone & Cloth Kit" 5) Nash Sports "Black Steel Honing Stone"

I don't intend to talk something about these but I post these documents on here to expect that it would help someone. (I made these documents to explain about FBV for my friend; forgive me if somewhere is wrong) The last one is an edge comparison picture using real edge angle of all xx/50 spinners but please note that the colors are not matching with the other charts. Just I've used color gradation to make the illustration be clear.

Also I was confused by the mismatch between the genuine TRUE holders and VH boots' outsole. Oppositely, compatibility with CCM XS holders is really good. It looks like "true" genuine holder for the VH boots. + genuine TRUE holders + CCM SpeedBlade XS holders

I've started using my 4th VH skates. These pair have completely granted my wishes. I'm really satisfied with them. Especially "built in medial shims" solved problems that have caused by external shims which I have used on past my VH boots. The compatibility between VH boots and CCM holders is also great. No longer I don't feel any negative points except heavy weight. Options: 1) Enhanced side wall protection 2) Metatarsal tongues 3) Built-in heel lift shims (+3mm) 4) Built-in medial shims (+3mm) 5) Additional instep volume control 6) CCM SpeedBlade XS holders 271 7) Sidas Conformable insoles 8) 72" unwaxed laces

I've been using a lot of pairs of Warrior franchise gloves. I really love them. Then I want to repair its gusset leather. Usually I use my local shop to repalm the palm leather only. But the shop can't repair gusset leather because they can't supply gusset leather themselves. I know that some famous repalming shops can repair gusset. They supply the gusset leather by themselves by cutting it off from sheet leather. My local shop answered me that maybe they can repair if they can get the material. So I want to buy the material leather, but I can't find it out. Is it the true name of the leather that the "Nash" or "Micronash"? For example I can find "Clarino" leathers on the internet stores because it is a true name of the leather which has created and named by Kuraray Inc. But I can't find "Nash" leather. Anyone knows some good stores who deal with "Nash" or "Micronash" leather?

Just made up my newest version of copy-grip. I'm glad that I could make it in this year.

Finally got my QXs. Pro stock Phil Kessel pattern modified Left hand 60flex Strong grip (strongest grip surface option of Warrior) No texture Now I'm working on making a mold of a grip end. QX's inside shape is also not square. So I've thought it's hard to get smooth fitment with traditional insert.

Sorry I couldn't understand well what I have been said. I took this picture from toe. Then also inserted little thicker one to medial side of the front, little thinner one to rear as same.

To change the medial shims thickness of back and forth is not my thinking. Holder's back and forth have different height. For example if you want to change holder's angle 1 degree to outside, lower front must need thicker shim than higher back. If you use the same height shims only, skate holder will be twist. I guess maybe people can use, skate normally with twisted holder. But I don't think to do such not accurate adjustment because even tuner doesn't understand correctly what he doing.

Sounds good. If my memory is correct, Scott doesn't recommend to use T-nuts for VH boots because it hurts carbon fiber. I bought an own riveter for my better hockey life but this is too much story, I also think. Only a thing which I have to mention you is that Bont wedge (I'm also a cyclist) is not perfect. 1st, cycling wedges have been made for cycling shoes and its cleat is too narrower against wide hockey boots and its holder. The wedges don't reach side to side of holder's mount. Then 2nd, we have to change the height of medial shims back and forth. For example the picture which I pasted on my former post using 1mm back and 2mm front. This is able to known if you calculate. Scott is a great man. Perhaps you will not need to do any adjustment or countermeasure if you get your VH skates. In fact, now I've not been using any medial side shims on my VH skates.

Sorry I'm not a pro fitter and also English is not my native language. So I couldn't understand all of what you are saying. But if you have been feeling uncomfortable, I think probably you can solve your problem by your sense. Because it means that you will be able to feel if your skate setting would be changed to suitable condition for your legs. Then I suggest you that using medial shims. Can you see the shim which is inserted into medial side only in this picture? You wrote about figure skate fitters though, figure skate's edge holders are narrower compared to its boots' sole. So there is enough spaces to adjust right and left. But our hockey edge holders are mounted fully on the boots' sole. And its rivet must be on suitable width of boot's inside sole. It's hard to adjust holders by sliding for pronation. So often we using medial/cant shims for O/X legs. Yes I became very good with the same countermeasure. And I think another strong point of this method is that being able to restore if only put the shims out between holder and boot. There is a reversibility. Also you can try different moving amounts constantly and gradually.

First, cut off some wood timbers to 15.5*25.5*145mm. This is just my geometry. If you want more long grip, you need extension as you want. The square,15.5*25.5 is much important number. So I cut a timber little big and after change it slowly with something like plane or files. After all, cut some corners off if as the wooden core can be set in your silicone mold. Make silicone mold of your master piece. It's better to coating your master with primer/surfacer because resin have construction factor. Before casting, coat wooden core with something like varnish to prevent bubbling. Set wooden core into the silicone mold and cast epoxy resin. Now as you know I'm considering to order my new sticks. I bought a QRL stick from my local shop though, I can test it under very average environment. I'm feeling it was really good work for my hockey life.

I don' know well about the situation of power balance in north america though, I really felt as same when I heard about Bauer's default story on this forum. How Bauer is disliked by many people... I've been using Step steel on my boots for these few years. I really like its V-Steel grade because I trust polished side face make good durability of the edges. But if I will have any chances to try Tydan Edge, also I'm interested in it. If I was a user of coating edges, perhaps I chose Tydan rather than Step. I ordered a pair of V-Steel 263 for LSE holder on my local shop. Maybe it will be arrived on middle of next month.