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Warren

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  1. Jeff,

    I don't know if it will help, but seriously, I know from my dealings with Graf Canada, they DO SPECIAL 'custom' stuff and the quality is out of this world.  Write 'em and ask.

  2. I saw your post regarding rivet length...  As a 'rules of thumb' about 1/8th of an inch (5 to 7 mm) of rivet should be on the outside of the skate -- meaning, just to get the sizing correct, put the rivet in the boot backwards.  You should see that 5-7mm sticking out above the holder.  You CAN go less, but the lesser you go, the lesser amount of contact are that the rivet will have with the skate.  You basically want a 'flowering'/flare when you've completed the rivet.  Too much and the rivets flares all 'wonky' or bends in half etc.  It just is NOT secure!.  Another tip, if you have a more filled out source of dies (if you can do copper rivets, you have the right dies, btw) put the flat die for doing a copper rivet (this is AFTER all your steel riveting is done) on the 'post' and secure it in (usually with a Allen key), then on the moveable 'arm' put the long but flat 'peening' die on that side, then crush the rivets down.  It will not hurt the rivets of the strength of the rivets but it will give you a MUCH flatter surface on which your feet will rest (especially if you are one to like to skate in your bare feet -- without any insole (don't ask me why, but some people, that is the ONLY way they will skate!)).  Also, remember, when doing a copper rivet, do NOT hammer it down (assuming that you have a NON-Hydraulic riveter) so the stem is flat.  Two or three (at most) strong strikes with a hammer is all you need -- no more.  The reason is that within the 'transiting hole' of the copper rivet shank, if you hit too hard, you can bend the shaft of the rivet and not know it.  Copper, being a relatively softer metal, can have a memory in that it bends back and voila`!, you now have a copper rivet that is a little too long and therefor not secure.  If you happen to think of something else, feel free to contact me.

    Warren

    1. laserrobottime
    2. Warren

      Warren

      Yuppers!  I crush the rivets EVERY time.  It is amazing that so many skaters 'hedge' about their rivets getting crushed and I try to tell them all of the benefits of doing it -- once in a while, they aceede to my doing so, and when they come off of the ice henceforth, they are in lust with such a thing happening.  Usually that convinces three to four others to do the same thing.  I have all of the rivets crushed on my team players.  As to the coppers, I compress the washer down and leave the resulting shank alone until I get to look in the skate and make sure that the rivets is flush with the sole/last and then I cut it with 'end cutters' and that gives me right at 1/8th of an inch of copper shank left above the holder's surface.  Then it is usually one light tap -- again making sure that nothing's gone wonky in the process of peening the coppers, then followed by two had drives with  hammer once the ambient temperature I am working in, is relatively warm 70°+.  Three hits if colder.  I find that copper is NOT as malleable when it is cold as to when it is warmer.

       

      Thanks for dropping a line.  TC

      Warren

  3. PLAY THE BODY! I cannot tell people enough to concentrate right where the 'belt-buckle' is. He cannot deceive you as to dangling and his position if you look at that one spot. He HAS to go where his buckle area goes. So, he can drop one off between you legs and then you just ride him off/out always keeping your own body between his and the puck. By the time he can possibly get back to it, it will be too late and his 'move' will be of no use. If you go for the puck, SUCKERS BET! That's what he wants you to do. You don't have to 'kill him' when you play the body -- though that is always an 'under-thought' it would seem?, just interfere with him trying to get back the puck. Since he is making a move on you, you are not interfering him in accordance with the rules. To some situations, if you road him 30 feet to the boards, one might blow a whistle but in reality all you have to do is stop what we had wanted to do for about two seconds and then, upon recovery of said puck, he is now behind the net or at such a sharp angle, it is not good for him. I will ALWAYS say, I would rather have a guy play the body and be sure that he's not going to get beat as opposed to someone playing the puck and in the most luckiest of circumstances, they might get a turnover. I hope this helps!
  4. There's always spraypaint!
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