BearCat

Yes..... Any epoxy-resin type product. Set in the rivet hole and work a small, amount (a thin smear) on the inside of the boot. That helps HOLD the stuff from popping out when you drill new rivet holes. Use a sharp bit and EASY pressure. Works great.

One more thing. Never allow the original, or oversized rivet holes to interfere with any holder replacement positioning. When switching holder designs, stepping up in length, etc., holes will seldom line up. Many times holes will be 'close' and require some reaming. This can cause weakness, using COPPER rivets, or installing rivets that seat on an angle. Use a products that can FILL the old holes. Very easily done and stronger than steel, when applied with care. These products come from your hardware store. You slice off a thin piece (off the roll of material) and roll it around in your fingers to 'mix' it. The material is IMMEDIATELY worked into the rivet holes and smoothed out. You have about 2 minutes (tops) to do this, Within a few minutes the stuff is PERMANENTLY in there and ready to drill. When pressed in, worked and smoothed and blended into the skate soleplate, it is smooth, flush and stronger than the soleplate. I call this a 'fill and drill'. I have to charge for this (charge by the hole), but it WORKS flawlessly.

Going 'UP' a size on a set of holders is rarely a bad decision. This is done at all levels of hockey. Especially effective with players that have a smaller foot (skate) size. I have a customer that is 10 years old (TRUE skates) and skates like an NHL'er. On the ice 5 days a week. I changed his holders a size longer, when his father wanted to buy LS5 steel. The player immediately noticed more speed and stability with very little change in maneuverability, transitions, etc. I always use the KISS principle. There is simply way too much 'boiling of the ocean' going on out there in Hockeyland. I would recommend Bauer EDGE holders with LS4 or LS5 steel.....or any of STEP Steel's steel. I always recommend skating on the 'factory' or (steel supplier's) PROFILE when trying out your new skates. Especially if changing brands, models, or custom skate orders. Even holder types affect your skating. Especially newer type holder designs, with pitch and stiffness. This 'newness' creates numerous variables (both actual and imagined) that will get into your 'head'. So, be patient, give yourself and your Skate Tech a chance to get you onto the right track. It's a PROCESS for serious skaters/players. Don't be in a RUSH to have 'stuff' done to your skates, holders and steel. We have a 'GURU' here in my city who makes a fortune with diagnosing 'pronation' and 'supination'. Installs clay and leather shimming inside heels of boots......you name it. MOST completely unnecessary!!! In short......go at changes slowly and methodically. The steel mentioned above comes factory LASER cut at a 10 foot, neutral profile. If you are skating on a 9-9.5 foot profile NOW.....just leave the 10 foot to TRY the skates. Possibly simply have the Skate Tech take a SMALL abount off of the rear working radius of the steel. Blend in the rear inch. or so of the steel so that you are comfortable immediately with transitions and reverses. KEEP IT SIMPLE to start off !!!