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biff44

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  1. biff44

    This is for the Skate Sharpeners

    The problem in rinks is that they grind the heck out of the blade, so the profile is gone pretty quickly. But even at home where you are grinding off just a little of the blade with each resharpen, you can develop a bad habit and put more force on the skate blade at one point than another, and that may eventually screw up the profile. Just concentrate on applying UNIFORM force to the skate during the entire blade pass. You can get a piece of cardboard and trace out the blade profile when they are new. Then a year later (assuming your kid does not break blades as quickly as mine did) you can compare present to new, and makes some adjustments.
  2. biff44

    This is for the Skate Sharpeners

    I do not know what the industry standard is, but it seems to take off more metal when you go against the direction of the wheel spin. So I used to go against the wheel for the first passes, and at the end I would move the skate with the wheel spin direction for a finer finishing grind. For some reason my son often had big divots in the metal edges (must have been a lot of grit in the rink he played at), So I was always grinding to remove those divots as the first step. As far as the blade heating up when grinding out those divots--you do not want it to heat up. I found that a damp cloth cooled it right down, if needed.
  3. biff44

    This is for the Skate Sharpeners

    From a technical point of view, the biggest problem a dad will have is that he will tend to distort the profile of the skate. The rocker, and the point of balance, all are pretty important. If you screw that up, you will be leaning forward, or falling backwards all the time. Over many home sharpenings, this can happen pretty easily. If you put a little more pressure while grinding at the start of the pass, and a little less pressure at the end of the pass, then after 100 sharpenings the front will be much lower than the rear, and you will be leaning forward! That said, the average yokel at the skate shop does not understand this either, and he is likely ruining your skates that way too!!! Probably the best way to go about it is to get a custom profile done at a really good shop, maybe one with a cag machine or some other profiling way, half-way thru the season. But there is nothing like having Johnny say, at 7AM on some summer sunday morning just before a big showcase: "dad, my skates are really screwed up, can you get them sharpened before the game" and find out there is nobody open. If you can just leisurely stroll to the basement and spool up the stone...priceless.
  4. biff44

    This is for the Skate Sharpeners

    1) they don't have a machine, or 2) they are not mechanically inclined (most moms, some dads do not qualify here) For 10% of the moms and probably 60% of the dads, it is no big deal.
  5. biff44

    This is for the Skate Sharpeners

    hogwash! If the blade is bent, it is almost always bent in 1 place, just put it on the edge of a wood table and bend it back. You would notice that by measuring the blade edge heights, and noting that they varied in height from toe to heel. I conjecture that a dad who is a little handy, with a home sharpener like a wissota and something to measure the blade edge heights will, within 2 weeks, be cranking out FAR BETTER grinds than the local yokel at the skating rink! This is becuase the local yokel NEVER uses a tool to check blade edge parallelism, and SELDOM redresses his wheel. The result are skate shapenings where one blade is 4 thousandths" higher than the other, and the kid falls every time he turns in one direction on the ice. What is more important, if you have a serious skater, he is going to want a custom hollow radius based on his ankle strength and weight. Try getting from the high school kid grinding skates at the rink! He has his stone set at 3/8" radius to please all the kiddies there, when you may need 5/8"! There is nothing particularly frightening or hard to learn to get a good sharpening...just attention to detail and a soft touch. I am not saying that some guy who has been doing it for 20 years and still cares about his quality will not do a superior job, or some guy who has a CAG1 will not get more consistent profiles. I am saying that, on the average, rink sharpening is very poor quality, and you could do better at home.
  6. biff44

    This is for the Skate Sharpeners

    If you have one of these: http://www.pro-filer.com/hdi/ and the blade is not bent, it is actually pretty easy to do!
  7. biff44

    David Perron

    This is all great for David, but I think the lewy fans would sacrifice a couple of cows and goats to see him back in the lineup!
  8. biff44

    David Perron

    That is not him. I think you are correct. That looked like the home hardware/chl top prospects game, where David was #17, not #19.
  9. biff44

    David Perron

    Next stop Vancouver!
  10. biff44

    David Perron

    Yes, that kid can score! Clearly superior to Voracek or Gratchev!
  11. biff44

    The CT Edge Blade

    Ktang, interesting point. But, I am not sure that more blade contact with the ice = less friction. I looked around the internet a little, and basically ice skates work this way: 1) A very small surface area (the skate blade edge) supports a 200 lb hockey player on the ice while skating. All of his weight is put on this edge, so the amount of pressure on the ice in PSI is very high. 2) Ice has the odd property that when you put high pressure on it, it melts. 3) So, what you are really doing is skating on a very thin layer of water. That is what allows you to glide. If you make the blade edge geometry so that there is more metal touching the ice, now you have less pressure per square inch, and the ice will not "melt" as well. So, the science seems to say that a sharper edge or higher bite angle, or whatever you want to call it has less friction. This is because you are distributing the skaters weight over a smaller surface area, so the PSI is higher. I actually found some info on a new skate blade that has a battery operated heater in it, and some (including Gretzky) said it skated with less friction!
  12. biff44

    The CT Edge Blade

    You know what would make a lot of sense? Make the flared part out of carbide, and weld it to the steel runner body. Thay way you would just replace the blades every 6 months to a year, and never have to go to the sharpener!
  13. biff44

    The CT Edge Blade

    I am sorry but I do not follow that. The bottom of the hollow does not touch the ice, even in straight forward skating. You are ALWAYS on one edge or the other when you are moving. If you TRY to skate on both edges at a time, you will notice that your skates just wooble back and forth picking up one edge, then the other. So everyone naturally uses one edge at a time, anything else is unnatural. So if you can get the same bite angle with the flared blade or without the flare, how do you think there will be less drag skating forward? Maybe you are right, but I just do not understand the concept.
  14. biff44

    The CT Edge Blade

    Hmmm, why do you say that?
  15. biff44

    The CT Edge Blade

    I have thought about it a little more, and I do see three advantages and three disadvantages to the new blade: + For a given bite angle, you have more volume and therefore stronger steel under the the edge of a wider blade than a narrower blade. You can see this by looking at the picture of the blade at http://chuck-wright.com/Skating/blades.html See the bite angle depicted in the "freestyle blade". Imagine the exact same bite angle in the smaller "dance" width blade, and you will see that the hollow depth has to be much deeper--yielding a more precarious blade edge that is prone to chipping off + The flared blade is lighter than a thicker blade whose width is the same as that of the flare width + The flared blade is easier to sharpen than a thicker than normal blade since you do not have to change the height of the holder on the sharpening machine (an adjustment that many of the local gorrilla employees may not be able to fathom) - After many sharpenings, the flare wears down. You will then have to change the hollow depth requested. After enough wear, you are back to a standard blade geometry. - If, after many (poor) sharpenings, the radius of the blade (9',11' etc) changes, then you will have differing amounts of flare width along the blade. So you will not be able to maintain the same bite angle along the length of the blade. - You can not have a custom radius, or change the balance point of the blade, since you will have different flare widths along the blade after the custom radius job. In summary, it seems like this new blade is a boon to skaters who like deep hollows (like 3/8"), since they will have a more rugged blade edge.


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