louierev07 31 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 Gents, Just finished my DIY conversion of the Bauer Vapor X3.0 with a HiLo chassis of my Bauer X60Rs. Not going to lie - it took me a good half the day. Getting the rivets out and then replacing the t-nuts was a headache - Chisel and Cutters and some drilling. The Coppers come of if you take a small hand saw, chop of the top and then pop it out with a screw driver / hammer. Used 6/32 T nuts and Bolts. Lock Thread and Going to top it all off with some JB Weld after your comments.Went out for a skate; amazing, amazing, amazing. Effects - Agility is sick. Weight reduction = yes! comfort - it is a 3.0 I love this boot. Overall I can say my X60Rs were Herman Munster Shoes compared to these. Fear - will they hold up ? seemed fine I might be paranoid, but concerned about the very dainty sole and my 205 Lbs .. that and I do enjoy going for a street run.. NYC street's are an entire obstacle in itself - from drivers trying to run you down to pot holes.. these skates might take a bit of abuse. Would deff appreciate some strategic comments and critique as I deff don't want them a) breaking and b) since I used bolts I intend to still cover up the extra holes with epoxy and maybe even do a layer of some thin leather to act as a washer between chassis and boot, and lastly what do you think if I lay over something to re-enforce the sole - maybe a layer or two of carbon fibers or just a thin sheet of plastic -...it just seems so freaking dainty. What can you recommend as far as the build, what do you see off the bat? What do you think about my re enforcement idea? . Can not wait to throw my addictions on them tomorrow at the indoor rink.. first game in these. Disappointment - I didn't expect to find such a thin paper sole in a Bauer skate. This part was hidden by the runner. Bauer - Shame on you! We know you're making these in China, so perhaps reduce Ovi8's endorsement deal money and improve the skate! You could do better! Bauer you get an F this time. Very very very disappointing. It is freaking paper with carbon fiber outlines covered by some plastic. ughh .. freakishly scary. p.s. Sorry for the image size - I will edit setting later when I post up the detailed walk through. Cant see any of your images. Just upload all of them to imgur and link the gallery Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PinkApe404 4 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 Cant see any of your images. Just upload all of them to imgur and link the galleryThanks and done. Check original post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gosinger 122 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 @PinkApe404: I'm interested on how those will hold up for you; I did a x3.0 conversion a while back, but never had much trust in em (due to the thin outsole). Plus, the tongues were causing bad lace bite for me. Please report back with mid-/long-term experience on the boot :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PinkApe404 4 Report post Posted July 1, 2014 @PinkApe404: I'm interested on how those will hold up for you; I did a x3.0 conversion a while back, but never had much trust in em (due to the thin outsole). Plus, the tongues were causing bad lace bite for me. Please report back with mid-/long-term experience on the boot :)lol.. great encouragement bro! "The sign for Thin Ice is just to keep the non-locals away.. go ahead its safe" - What can I do about the sole. Options) cut out inner sole and glue inside. b) cut out or use layered material to re enforce outside. c) both. I really did not plan on getting composite tow involved but might be the way ( this is the stuff used on our hockey sticks). I need to do a little research. I Figure it might be worth it; its a brand new skate as you all can see.. So onto Phase two then - re enforcing the soles and blacking out the boots. This calls for a new thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjs0433 15 Report post Posted July 2, 2014 For the reasons above is why you typically don't see too many conversions done on skates that don't have a composite outsole. I know it's been done a bunch of times but it's not exactly ideal.I just ordered a fresh pair of last years Supreme one.8's that I'll be converting in the near future. Have to thank 4th of July sales. That is what I'm skating on now and it's the only skate I've tried that feels like it truly fits my foot. I'm currently using a mission hi-lo chassis but I'm really tempted to make a jump to a Labeda hum'er frame. I'm trying to decide if I think it's really worth it or just try and find a magnesium hi-lo. I've skated a couple times in an all 80mm wheel frame and definitely liked it a lot. None of the weird feeling that a lot of people report. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PinkApe404 4 Report post Posted July 2, 2014 For the reasons above is why you typically don't see too many conversions done on skates that don't have a composite outsole. I know it's been done a bunch of times but it's not exactly ideal.I just ordered a fresh pair of last years Supreme one.8's that I'll be converting in the near future. Have to thank 4th of July sales. That is what I'm skating on now and it's the only skate I've tried that feels like it truly fits my foot. I'm currently using a mission hi-lo chassis but I'm really tempted to make a jump to a Labeda hum'er frame. I'm trying to decide if I think it's really worth it or just try and find a magnesium hi-lo. I've skated a couple times in an all 80mm wheel frame and definitely liked it a lot. None of the weird feeling that a lot of people report. SJS - I believe you are in the know how about conversion based on your posts.. I have not skated much yet ( only finished them last night). If I lay a few layers of compoite + resin over the out sole. Will it be good? I already started youknow sad to go back. Lastly, if I skate as is and just finish up the conversion by plugging the holes with JB weld as intended. Am I possibly wasting time going the composite route. What do you think about X5.0s that was my next project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PinkApe404 4 Report post Posted July 2, 2014 @PinkApe404: I'm interested on how those will hold up for you; I did a x3.0 conversion a while back, but never had much trust in em (due to the thin outsole). Plus, the tongues were causing bad lace bite for me. Please report back with mid-/long-term experience on the boot :)I went for a street skate - got a good 20 minutes in. I am impressed so far - I was expecting worse, but nothing of the sort happened. There is deff a diff feel from my X60Rs and this is due to the centering / alignment - but I am certainly faster and more responsive in this setup. I will pull the chassis off this week after an indoor game and touch up the holes with some JB weld and see if I could get the center done right ( hoping not to drill anymore) and I will deff add some spacer between the frame and out sole. It should not be without at least a few millimeters of layer between chassis and sole.. seems so to me at-least. I will post up and report back in a few weeks and update everyone on how they are holding up and also my 5.0 conversion I will start next week. If anyone is interested in an X60R pair of boots in an 8D ( very good condition) I am open to trades - I am stating now they are big - I think they are a solid 9 as every 8D / 8 R I had tried on fits me perfectly and these are just big. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjs0433 15 Report post Posted July 2, 2014 The X5.0 will work perfectly. If you go back several pages I actually converted a pair. These do have a composite outsole and will be fine. I only didn't keep them because my foot can't do the Vapor boot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PinkApe404 4 Report post Posted July 2, 2014 The X5.0 will work perfectly. If you go back several pages I actually converted a pair. These do have a composite outsole and will be fine. I only didn't keep them because my foot can't do the Vapor boot.Sweet! Look forward to it. I noticed one issue last night; right skate two front wheels are an inch of the ground. Obv when my foot is in the skte and my weight on them I doubt it is really an issue, but without any weight simply placing the skates against the flat surface the 2 front wheels are an inch off. What do you think leave it alone? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kovalchuk71 212 Report post Posted July 3, 2014 Some Nexus 8000 skates I mounted for a teammate. They were a PAIN IN THE BUTT. Took me nearly 3 hours. Way too long. 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IW Team - Chase 184 Report post Posted July 3, 2014 Beut's! Got a co-working wanting to do the same thing to her pair. Can you send a pic of the mount? Some Nexus 8000 skates I mounted for a teammate. They were a PAIN IN THE BUTT. Took me nearly 3 hours. Way too long. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kovalchuk71 212 Report post Posted July 3, 2014 IW Team,Yes I can. I sent them back to my buddy, but I will have him snap a couple pics of the bottoms for you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IW Team - Chase 184 Report post Posted July 3, 2014 Thanks buddy, that'd be much appreciated. Any unique tips to anyone looking to do this set-up? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kovalchuk71 212 Report post Posted July 3, 2014 Thanks buddy, that'd be much appreciated. Any unique tips to anyone looking to do this set-up?There really are no unique tips I can give honestly. Just make sure the wheels are centered in the front and the back of the skate (obviously). The reason I had so much trouble with this was because the skate was a 9.5D, and my buddy requested the SM/MED Mission frame (9.5 is on the VERY END of the sizing spectrum for this frame. I needed to make sure that the wheels were sticking out evenly in the front and the back, so I took my time. I'm very meticulous with that kind of stuff. Especially since these arent cheap skates.Actually, I do have a minor tip. The second set of holes in the heel (the holes closer to the toe) line up just about perfectly with the rear Magnesium frame holes. Put coppers in those and use them as a guide for the rest of the skate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjs0433 15 Report post Posted July 4, 2014 I find the front/rear spacing of the wheels to the boot to be complete personal preference. I personally like my boot a little more over the toes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyjoe 0 Report post Posted July 6, 2014 I am going to install some Marsblades on my One.7s and am trying to find the copper hardware. For those that use copper, where do you buy the copper t nuts and bolts? I cannot seem to locate any. Thanks in advance for the help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PinkApe404 4 Report post Posted July 7, 2014 I am going to install some Marsblades on my One.7s and am trying to find the copper hardware. For those that use copper, where do you buy the copper t nuts and bolts? I cannot seem to locate any. Thanks in advance for the help.I just did one conversion - but am not new to DIY in general. Using Rivets ( Copper) is a permanent attachment and requires much more work than using the T-nut & Bolt system. I think you have not done this before so why would you want to compound an already arduous task by using the fastening mechanism that is least forgiving? I do not feel Rivets provide more support than bolts and bolts can always be removed in case you want to adjust something, change the boot, etc. Where the Rivets will require another stripping job which will most likely leave damage to the chassis. If you get stuck feel free to hmu - can deff jump on skype or net meeting and at least see what you are doing and possibly give you some feedback if I am able to as all this is way too abstract. I believe this video really nails down the process; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esmxPCpPTJo - Good luck. Guys can anyone make a youtube demonstrating the centering and alignment process? I think I did a solid job on mine, but if anyone has some free time and would to throw up a DIY channel skate related you would be the man! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
louierev07 31 Report post Posted July 7, 2014 Here's a quick pic of my most recent conversion might be relevant to some recent posts. One.8 with marsblades. http://i.imgur.com/083GpoP.jpgWill post more details and stuff when I get home! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EBondo 232 Report post Posted July 7, 2014 Some Nexus 8000 skates I mounted for a teammate. They were a PAIN IN THE BUTT. Took me nearly 3 hours. Way too long.....Mine are better.........hahahaChase, had no issues with my mounting. Used all coppers on it. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kyjoe 0 Report post Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) Using Rivets ( Copper) is a permanent attachment and requires much more work than using the T-nut & Bolt system.Understood. My preference is to use the tee nuts and bolts rather than rivets. In reading some earlier comments and looking at the pics I thought some were using copper tee nuts and bolts rather than stainless steel. I may have made an incorrect assumption. Thanks for the help. Edited July 7, 2014 by kyjoe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PinkApe404 4 Report post Posted July 7, 2014 Understood. My preference is to use the tee nuts and bolts rather than rivets. In reading some earlier comments and looking at the pics I thought some were using copper tee nuts and bolts rather than stainless steel. I may have made an incorrect assumption. Thanks for the help.No Worries - I got mine from a local hardware store. There are two sizes guys on here are using 6/32 and 8/32. the 8/32 are wider and hence you will need a bigger hole. Also as noted on here before the 06/32 is better in case you make a mistake - you can always patch the hole out with JB weld and do over. On a side note the front t-nuts are going to be the most annoying to insert, simply because the toe cap and tongue will give you bare enough room to get your hand in there. I used a thin long screw to give me spacial direct.. I would insert long screw inside hole and with the tnut flat end indented on my index finger would just try and feel inside until I got the thing onto the screw make a few rotations to attach tnut to screw pull down and slide tnut into hole. If you got a kid with small hands they would suffice as well - my niece is deff going to be around for the next conversion as I simply do not look forward to poking around for an hour. Last bit of advice, like with all DIY .. Take your time and make sure you have the tools so you don't run around; you need 1 Drill, Drill Bits for 6/32 or 8/32 and one slightly larger to get the rivets out / Small Chisel to get rivets out, small hammer to knock chisel over rivet head, Phillips screw driver, T-Nuts and Bolts and washers, Thread Lock, Epoxy ( JB Weld works Great), pair of cutters also for getting rivets out ( those rivets are annoying), and small hand saw also for rivets - this one you use to cut off two copper rivet heads on heel and pop out the rivet with a pair of needle nose and a few bangs of the hammer. Seriously looking back you really need to love this S*it because $40 to a skate shop sounds about fair in return for all the work. Again that is a preference,. Am I missing anything? You can do the JB weld part after the Chassis is mounted - I took mine off and patched up the holes after. P.s. if the bold is a tad longer than the sole and you feel it protruding - you don't necessarily need to cut it, the foot bet might provide ample cushion - mine was enough. Again that video I linked you to really does the job of showing you steps needed ..in a time lapsed version lol. Good Luck. Lets See them Bad boys! ....Mine are better.........hahahaChase, had no issues with my mounting. Used all coppers on it.Yeh, your boss did a wonderful job :) Do your own! 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjs0433 15 Report post Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) Currently looking for a fair priced labeda hum'er frame to mount on my one.8s that will be here Wednesday. I'm looking forward to a fresh pair of skates. I agree with above that you really have to like this because it's not a quick process at all and you need to be pretty meticulous if doing it yourself to make sure things end up identical for both skates. The reward is worth it though. Edited July 7, 2014 by sjs0433 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PinkApe404 4 Report post Posted July 7, 2014 Currently looking for a fair priced labeda hum'er frame to mount on my one.8s that will be here Wednesdat.makes two of us :) Is Labeda on this forum.. get them over-here..time to talk deals for free advertising. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sjs0433 15 Report post Posted July 7, 2014 They are on here from time to time I think. I'm trying to find someone that has maybe leftover stock of an older model frame. I'm not looking to spend $160 on the current eviction frame. For half that I can go to a Vanguard hi-lo frame which is what I'm currently using. I think eBay might have what I'm looking for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PinkApe404 4 Report post Posted July 7, 2014 They are on here from time to time I think. I'm trying to find someone that has maybe leftover stock of an older model frame. I'm not looking to spend $160 on the current eviction frame. For half that I can go to a Vanguard hi-lo frame which is what I'm currently using. I think eBay might have what I'm looking for.Zero .. there is a guy with a bunch of older Labeda frames but they are small sizes - Craigslist is an option too. Hit me up if you come up on someone with frames - would appreciate it. I am an 8. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
