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giogolf

Goalie skate rocker profile

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Hey all,

New to being the goalie position. All of my hockey experience comes from playing Center or Defense at different times in my hockey career. I am now transitioning to Goalie, and am a bit nervous about skating on dull flat bladed goalie skates. I do not know what it is but I like the round rocker of player skates. When I bought my first set of roller hockey skates I laced them up took of tried to make a fast c turn and busted my butt before I even knew what happened. I could not skate for the life of me with all those wheels on the ground, every time I tried to turn it felt like the skates were stuck to the ground. So my solution: Having 4 wheels on the skate, I replaced the first and last wheel with wheels that were about 5 mm shorter to create a bit of a rocker. Wouldn't you know that did the trick, was turning cutting like butter.

So my question to you guys, after I get my goalie skates I was thinking of sending them right out to get a custom profile done. From what I read, goalie skates are in the 22"-28" rocker profile, and players skates are 8"-15". So I was thinking of maybe putting on a 18" radius or something around there. I know many of you will say just put them on and get used to them because the flatness will increase your stability and balance, but I just hate that planted feel, like the skate is stuck on a track.

What are your opinions?

Thanks all

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It can be done, but you're going to take off a TON of steel. Unless you end up with a pair of skates with removable blades (newer CCM and RBK skates), that means replacing the cowlings very quickly, which can be a pretty expensive operation ($130+).

I had the exact opposite done, profiling a pair of Graf player skates from 11' out to 65/130 on the CAG. Took about an hour and a half.

Just FYI, goalie skates also have longer blades in addition to longer profiles, and can in fact run up to 100' (on old CCM cowlings), but most (Bauer, RBK, newer CCM) are 30' from the factory. Grafs are 22' and have a shorter blade. In fact, I might suggest just buying a pair of used Grafs, if they fit: they're good skates, and will feel much more like player skates. Some good deals can be had on older models like the 650, 750 and 07-50.

There is, however, a small misconception about goalie skates buried in your post. While it may once have been true that goalies skates were relatively 'dull' (ie. had a fairly shallow hollow), this really isn't the case any more. Every goalie coach I know tells their beginners to start with a 1/2" hollow and adjust up or down from there. I've stayed on 1/2" for a while, after creeping down from a composite cut (3/4" on toe and heel, 1.5" on the flat of the blade), and I'm probably gogin to go down to 7/16". I know one guy with a pretty impressive resume who plays on 1/16", which is deeper than any forward or defenceman could ever use.

So, in short, your plan has definite merit. You will benefit from a longer profile as a goalie, but it will take time to get used to, and going in increments makes sense. Grafs will help ease the transition - or, more particularly, Graf cowlings & steel will.

Good luck with those pads!

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I would advise against it...the principle of being able to turn on a dime is not a needed feature in goalie skates. I understand what you're saying, but skating as a goalie is totally different principle than player skates. I would in turn work on your Technique to facilitate your skates rather than vice versa. You can't put steel back On to skates. I play both in and out of net, and have no difficulties going from one to the next. Even done back to back games as each. It's all a matter of getting accustomed to the style of play. And you Need that planted stuck on a track feel when you're doing your backwards C-Cut glides, and planting for B-Fly slides and the like. I know it's a lot to get used to all at once...just stick with it and don't ever give up. I'd look into some training magazines or videos to get a feel of what the skating aspect of a goalie is like. Vaughn even has a little section on their site for tips and techniques and such. Best of luck, and keep your stick on the ice.

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A wealth of knowledge with every post thanks again. If I can squeeze my wide feet in some grafs I will go that route.

It can be done, but you're going to take off a TON of steel. Unless you end up with a pair of skates with removable blades (newer CCM and RBK skates), that means replacing the cowlings very quickly, which can be a pretty expensive operation ($130+).

I had the exact opposite done, profiling a pair of Graf player skates from 11' out to 65/130 on the CAG. Took about an hour and a half.

Just FYI, goalie skates also have longer blades in addition to longer profiles, and can in fact run up to 100' (on old CCM cowlings), but most (Bauer, RBK, newer CCM) are 30' from the factory. Grafs are 22' and have a shorter blade. In fact, I might suggest just buying a pair of used Grafs, if they fit: they're good skates, and will feel much more like player skates. Some good deals can be had on older models like the 650, 750 and 07-50.

There is, however, a small misconception about goalie skates buried in your post. While it may once have been true that goalies skates were relatively 'dull' (ie. had a fairly shallow hollow), this really isn't the case any more. Every goalie coach I know tells their beginners to start with a 1/2" hollow and adjust up or down from there. I've stayed on 1/2" for a while, after creeping down from a composite cut (3/4" on toe and heel, 1.5" on the flat of the blade), and I'm probably gogin to go down to 7/16". I know one guy with a pretty impressive resume who plays on 1/16", which is deeper than any forward or defenceman could ever use.

So, in short, your plan has definite merit. You will benefit from a longer profile as a goalie, but it will take time to get used to, and going in increments makes sense. Grafs will help ease the transition - or, more particularly, Graf cowlings & steel will.

Good luck with those pads!

Ah, the man speaking on the other shoulder.... I know I really have to just practice, practice with getting used to goalie specific skates. Thanks

I would advise against it...the principle of being able to turn on a dime is not a needed feature in goalie skates. I understand what you're saying, but skating as a goalie is totally different principle than player skates. I would in turn work on your Technique to facilitate your skates rather than vice versa. You can't put steel back On to skates. I play both in and out of net, and have no difficulties going from one to the next. Even done back to back games as each. It's all a matter of getting accustomed to the style of play. And you Need that planted stuck on a track feel when you're doing your backwards C-Cut glides, and planting for B-Fly slides and the like. I know it's a lot to get used to all at once...just stick with it and don't ever give up. I'd look into some training magazines or videos to get a feel of what the skating aspect of a goalie is like. Vaughn even has a little section on their site for tips and techniques and such. Best of luck, and keep your stick on the ice.

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Honestly, I've gone back and forth with player skates and goalie skates, and I'd say it's not worth sacrificing the goalie blade's function to make it more like a player skate. Just take the plunge and adapt, and you will end up with better results I think. Just take the time to build your confidence on your edges, and you will never look back. Also, as mentioned, you don't have to use a dull blade. I use the same hollow be it on goalie or player skates.

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Any radius shorter than 24-26' doesn't really offer any improvements. Late model goal skates with around 30' radius are pretty darn good right out of the box. The only change I would recommend is adding some pitch to take away that flat feel. I personally use a 27' with pitch. Pitch also improves goalie stance and balance. IMO, way more benefit from pitch than say shortening the radius. Now if you have one of the older model with 100' or flat radius, by all means shorten it up.

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