Jason Harris 31 Report post Posted March 18, 2009 Hey, has anyone ever worked on roll-up garage doors?We've been in the house for eleven years with no problems, but the door has begun to stick about the past three months. When looking at it from the inside, it's only on the right side at the curve towards the roof; each time the rollers need to go by the curve, they noticeably drag, pop and then shift a centimeter before proceeding. (A couple of times, they can't shift and the door becomes stuck midway.) I noticed loose screws on the horizontal metal piece that affixes each panel to the one above it, so I tightened EVERY screw on the door. Problem still happened, and it even looked like the screws may have come loose again on the horizontal piece. To fix the loose screws, I figured I'd glue in a small piece of dowel, then re-screw, but I don't think it's going to fix my shimmy and rattle.The only other thing I noticed is there is a short piece of wood (18" of 2x10) that the spring is attached to, and then the wood is attached to the fascia above the door. That piece of wood is at an angle, so I was thinking of putting a couple of lag screws into it. A few questions.Does anyone think tightening this block might solve my problem? How dangerous is the spring of a garage door? If the spring of a garage door gets out of alignment, could it "pop" easily, or should I have little trouble drilling a couple of holes and tightening some lags screws? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ktang 34 Report post Posted March 18, 2009 The garage door spring can kill in an instant if it "lets go" when the door is down. Also, after 11 years, they might be starting to go, so your door might not be balanced any more. Is your garage door opener (if you have one) having trouble lifting the door or keeping it open?Do you have large door panels, and could they be warped? That might be causing the screws to pull out, too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason Harris 31 Report post Posted March 18, 2009 It's a two-car garage with four panels, so I'd guess each panel is about two feet tall by maybe nine feet long. The house is 40-years-old, so the garage door has been there anywhere between 11 to 40 years. I don't think the garage door opener is struggling to lift the door, but it's getting momentarily stuck each time the rollers on the right try to make the curve.I'll look at whether the pieces seem warped. Outside of that, I've tightened every screw, so it seems all that is left is to tighten the block of wood on which the spring is affixed. However, I'm a little be leery of what could happen if I'm standing on a ladder and the spring is somehow stressed while I'm trying to put in the lag screws. The bottom line is I might call a garage door repairman. I'd rather spend $200 on him than have The Big D spend $10k on a funeral, although she might argue that point.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rustpot 1 Report post Posted March 18, 2009 Might be the rollers/bearings on the right door panels just getting out of alignment or worn. You don't have any kids driving do you? Someone might have hit the track with a car mirror or when moving something, causing the rollers to catch on the warped track. Also might just need a good amount of lube or new rollers- if the door's been misaligned to the right for a while the right stuff might wear more and have failed.Hard to diagnose without being there I guess. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neal 41 Report post Posted March 18, 2009 I'll look at whether the pieces seem warped. Outside of that, I've tightened every screw, so it seems all that is left is to tighten the block of wood on which the spring is affixed. However, I'm a little be leery of what could happen if I'm standing on a ladder and the spring is somehow stressed while I'm trying to put in the lag screws. The bottom line is I might call a garage door repairman. I'd rather spend $200 on him than have The Big D spend $10k on a funeral, although she might argue that point....Check to see if your tracks are twisted or no longer parallel with the door's travel. It doesn't take a great deal of slop to mess things up. You should be okay running a couple lag screws in, as the springs are usually reasonably secure but trust your instincts and look everything over real well first. Be honest with yourself too. If you're not mechanically inclined and aren't likely to notice something that is wrong with the spring, don't mess with it. There is enough potential energy there to lift a garage door... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chk hrd 164 Report post Posted March 18, 2009 get it fixed ASAP, especially if you have an auto door opener. If something hangs up there is a possibility of ruining the door. Be real careful of the springs, I've been around when the snap and it sounds like a bomb went off. If you are not good with tools and fixing things have a pro look at it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason Harris 31 Report post Posted March 22, 2009 Okay, I lightly tried to fix it.I'm not knowledgeable about garage doors, so I'm only guessing here, but I think the header board pulling away from the garage fascia is my problem. My guess is the board was originally affixed with four nails, and now it's pulling away from its bottom in such a way that the motion is becoming warped. Being scared shitless that this thing could snap under the wrong pressure, I tapped a little bit on the nails I could reach, but they weren't moving. Then I drilled a hole to thread in a lag screw, hoping it might be able to pull in the header board, but it didn't have enough pull to slide the wood over the exposed nails. In other words, it secured the board at its existing angle of warpedness, but wouldn't pull it closer to the fascia. I could try a couple of more lag screws, but I don't think that will change; I'd have to figure a way of removing the nails, not all of which I can reach.Consequently, I'm going to hire somebody who knows what he's doing. My guess is he will unattach the rod that has the springs, first at the ends above the tracks, then where the rod is attached to the header. He will then put in a new header board and reattach the rod. It sounds simple, but I'm going to let the guy risk his safety on my dime! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wolfpack_1986 146 Report post Posted March 23, 2009 Consequently, I'm going to hire somebody who knows what he's doing. My guess is he will unattach the rod that has the springs, first at the ends above the tracks, then where the rod is attached to the header. He will then put in a new header board and reattach the rod. It sounds simple, but I'm going to let the guy risk his safety on my dime!that sounds like the best idea, these doors can be 'fussy' and they're pretty imperative to get right and do it right on the first time out. it aint electrical wiring :lol: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dalebert 8 Report post Posted March 23, 2009 get it fixed ASAP, especially if you have an auto door opener. If something hangs up there is a possibility of ruining the door. Be real careful of the springs, I've been around when the snap and it sounds like a bomb went off. If you are not good with tools and fixing things have a pro look at it.Ugh I remember the first time I heard that sound (Our house's garage door and opener is 20something years old and yes we are looking to replace it) but the springs have snapped before and good god the first time I heard it I almost went through the roof. Luckily after grabbing something I could swing and checking the garage, seeing the spring hanging I chuckled, closed the door (not the garage door, the door to get from the house to the garage) and called the old man up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monty22 821 Report post Posted March 28, 2009 Anyone good with washing machines? I have a top loading Maytag that fills with water but the agitator wont move and the spin cycle won't engage. I'm assuming it's not cost effective to repair as opposed to replace. It was in the house when we moved here 3 years ago, I'd estimate it to be about 8 years old, maybe less. With the lid closed it hums like it's trying to run, but nothing happens. Any ideas? Also, what's the easiest way to drain it at this point? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fieldofdreams 0 Report post Posted March 28, 2009 Monty, maybe the belt has slipped? Have you taken the front off and looked at the inside? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ktang 34 Report post Posted March 28, 2009 In my washer, the drive belt and motor were to the back left, at the bottom. If you hear the motor whirring (the humming), then probably the drive belt has broken or slipped off. My motor also drives the pump.If the drive belt(s) are broken, you may need to bail or scoop out the water. Then the washer will be light enough for you to get behind it to take out the back panel, and you can make a temporary drive belt with some pantyhose.Unplug it before opening anything up - be careful around water and electricity! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monty22 821 Report post Posted March 29, 2009 Got the water out and opend it up. The belt looks fine- it's got tension and is not off it's track. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fieldofdreams 0 Report post Posted March 29, 2009 Did you check the side of the belt that contacts the pulleys? Sometimes if they get too old, they get slick. The pulley will spin and the belt could just stay put and not move. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monty22 821 Report post Posted March 29, 2009 Thanks for the tips guys. I checked the wheels, doesn't seem like they want to spin. Looks like a trip to Lowe's in my future. ...Thanks for the tips guys. I checked the wheels, doesn't seem like they want to spin- like they aren't getting power to them. Looks like a trip to Lowe's in my future. ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ktang 34 Report post Posted March 30, 2009 I need help with installing floor tile.(i) How do you know if the floor is stiff enough to not need another layer of plywood before you lay the tile? Do you just measure its thickness?(ii) Also, I'm replacing the linoleum in a bathroom. Since the tile will be thicker than the linoleum, I'm thinking that I will have to install thicker toilet anchoring screws. Is this difficult? and(iii) Is porcelain tile better than ceramic? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason Harris 31 Report post Posted March 30, 2009 What's your timetable? My buddy manages a Tile For Less -- I can ask him this week. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ktang 34 Report post Posted March 30, 2009 There's no rush on this at all. Hockey season (winter) is almost over, and I won't be reffing this summer, so I have to do something with my spare time.Thanks!And, was your garage door fixed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason Harris 31 Report post Posted March 30, 2009 Not yet. I've been a busy lately and will probably continue to be so through April 15th (our tax day!), but it stopped halfway over the weekend, so I need to make the time to call someone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neal 41 Report post Posted March 30, 2009 I need help with installing floor tile.(i) How do you know if the floor is stiff enough to not need another layer of plywood before you lay the tile? Do you just measure its thickness?(ii) Also, I'm replacing the linoleum in a bathroom. Since the tile will be thicker than the linoleum, I'm thinking that I will have to install thicker toilet anchoring screws. Is this difficult? and(iii) Is porcelain tile better than ceramic?(i)The key issue isn't the thickness of the tile, it is the flex in the floor. If you are doing a large area, I would look at adding a layer of tilebacker. Especially in a bathroom, there is potential for the floor to get wet, wet plywood swells and the tile mastic won't. You can end up with whole sections of your tile coming off. The tilebacker won't swell or change size if it gets wet and the tile will remain glued on.(ii)No big deal. You'll need a new seal for the toilet but these are reasonable. You can treat it like a new toilet install.(iii)I don't know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monty22 821 Report post Posted April 1, 2009 When pulling up linoleum flooring made before the late 1970's, be sure to have it tested for asbestos. The underlaminate in my kitchen tested positive. Don't cut that crap up and risk exposing your family. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ktang 34 Report post Posted April 1, 2009 When pulling up linoleum flooring made before the late 1970's, be sure to have it tested for asbestos. The underlaminate in my kitchen tested positive. Don't cut that crap up and risk exposing your family.OOOOH, good one, I didn't know about that.Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason Harris 31 Report post Posted April 1, 2009 ktang, my friend said if your subfloor is wood and 3/4" or less, you should use tilebacker. If it's cement, you can install directly to it. Porcelain tiles are stronger than ceramic, so buy a commercial grade ceramic if you want to go that route. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ktang 34 Report post Posted April 1, 2009 OK, thanks for that expert info. Now I don't have any more excuses for not starting, as long as there is no asbestos in the linoleum... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ktang 34 Report post Posted May 7, 2009 Well, I finally started it last week, when my son went on a school field trip for a week.As Jason H.'s tile expert friend suggested, I hacked out the upper layer of OSB and put on a 2nd layer of 5/8" plywood to bring the subfloor up to 1 1/4", so I had to re-do the toilet flange (which wasn't done properly in the first place).I used Ditra between the subfloor and the tiles, instead of cement backerboard. It was easy to put down.The 12"x12" tile was on sale for $0.99 per box of 16 tiles. These tiles were supposed to go to a new house, but because of the economy...I just grouted last night, and after I seal the grout I can put the mouldings and toilet back in place. Then a little trimming on the bottom of the door, and it's done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
