DIY ICM to LS2 holder upgrade on old Bauers (w/ pics)

[Noonan! 0]

I got back into skating recently and picked up a pair of like-new (but classic) Bauers with the ICM holder. The steel is molded into the plastic and they're rusty enough that I'm replacing the holders. I've got a pair of LS2's in the mail and looking to go the DIY t-nut and machine screw route after spending close to $100 on holders and steel (learned a bit in the forums, fortunately). I've read what's applicable in these forums and think I can pull it off okay, but I'd love some advice from those who have done it. I'm 99% sure I'll be drilling new holes to match the LS2 's, but that the strength of the sole won't suffer too much. I'll post pictures as I go if folks are interested.

Also, if anyone can help me ID my skate model & year, that would be cool too. They say Bauer Custom on the tendon guard and have a 66 on the back. Other than the logo, no more markings. I'm guessing they're from themid 80's after looking at that old Canstar catalog.

Please send advice!

[JR Boucicaut 3759]

Keep in mind that while those skates could be like new, you may be in a situation in which the insole may disintegrate once you put a drill to it.

[Noonan! 0]

Thanks for the response JR. I'm pretty much crossing my fingers that the skates hold up becasue I like how they fit, but I'm not too worried. At least I'll have some nice holders to strap to my feet if I kill the skates. Have you done/seen work like this?

I got most of my info/inspiration so far from this post:

http://www.goaliestore.com/board/equipment-forum/38672-how-mods-repairs-thread-13.html#post858230

Here are some pre-project pics of the skates/holders and the hardware I plan to use(#8-32 truss head machine screws and t-nuts). Obviously I'll need shorter screws when it comes to mounting, but I'll use the longer ones to get the t-nuts into the sole.

Itching to start, but still waiting on backordered holders from Total Hockey...

[jimmy 194]

If you can find a shop to do the swap with regular rivets, that would prob be cheaper and easier than using the bolt/nut method. You're looking at 1-2$ per rivet vs the cost of those nuts. Pretty much even I bet. Plus, it's going to be very difficult to get the hand in the front cap to align the nuts. Trust me, when I use to install overdrive blades on goal skates, it was very hard to get the front ones in. Had to find someone with extremely small hands, and still sometimes it couldn't be done.

[Noonan! 0]

Thanks jimmy. Your post prompted me to grab my skates and shove my hand into them. With the laces out, I should have enough finger space to make it happen, but it's definitely trickier than the rear mounts. My LHS quoted $2 per rivet plus $10 each skate for the drilling ($76 total). No discount for removing the old holders myself; I guess it doesn't save them much labor. I've priced all of the hardware at about $20. The "point of no return" will be drilling the holes to fit the barrels of the t-nuts (much wider than standard rivet holes).

One concern I have is holes that almost line up so that I get an oblong hole, which would be a problem for any kind of hardware. Does this ever present a real problem? I'm also curious to see to what degree the old and new holes match up, but I'm not expecting much correlation at all.

[ponder 0]

Purely out of curiosity, why are you putting so much time and money into such old skates? Is it liking the feel/fit of older Bauers, or more just a fin project? I assume it's not a cost thing, because if it cost you $100 for LS2s and steel, and another $80 to get them installed, you're already at the price of a new pair of one60s, which have LS2s.

[Noonan! 0]

Purely out of curiosity, why are you putting so much time and money into such old skates? Is it liking the feel/fit of older Bauers, or more just a fin project?

Yes and yes. I got this pair off of craigslist ($20) to work on my skating a couple times a week. They fit great and have retro appeal (except the rust, which is too deep to stone away), but I admit I like the DIY aspect, especially if it means avoiding the $76 at the shop. Pending disaster (knock on wood), I'll have a boot I love and top of the line holders.

[jimmy 194]

Oblong holes can cause holder shifting but with the tnuts, it wont be a problem. Also with Tnuts you wont need to use as many as rivets. Prob get by using just 8 on each skate. They will be much stronger than rivets. Also, you don't have to use orig holes on the LS2's, you can make new ones inbetween the others if line up is an issue.

[Noonan! 0]

Also with Tnuts you wont need to use as many as rivets. Prob get by using just 8 on each skate. They will be much stronger than rivets.

Thanks jimmy, I hadn't thought about that; makes sense. I might use all 14 for peace of mind unless the new holes look heinously large. The other thing I was considering was drilling an access hole (as small as possible) for the runner nut like some Bauers have. That'll depend on how big it has to be. Otherwise I'll be breaking Loctite to remove the holder when I get around to replacing the runner, and the leftover Loctite might gum up the works a bit.

Apparently I picked a bad time of year to order holders. Here's hoping Total Hockey gets them in stock today like they said they would.

[Shayno 1]

Ahhhhh....brings back memories of those ICM holders on my tacks.....I loved those holders, on a side note...anyone know what steel came with those holders? TY

[Noonan! 0]

Ahhhhh....brings back memories of those ICM holders on my tacks.....I loved those holders, on a side note...anyone know what steel came with those holders? TY

You could get stainless in 1991 according to the Canstar catalog, but mine sure aren't. This pair probably predates me anyway. I'm not sure when stainless became the norm. I like your avatar, Shayno; I've seen a few of those in my professional life as well (not to get too far off topic).

[Noonan! 0]

The holders came in yesterday, and after a few hours of work last night and tonight, I'm pretty happy with the result. It turns out the cardboard/resin mix under the footbed was hard as a rock. I couldn't get the t-nuts to bite into it, so I went with nylock nuts on the outside and countersunk screws on the inside. It was a bit of a fight on each one holding the alignment where I wanted it while I got the first couple nuts tightened down, but the the holder did the work guiding the drill on the rest of the holes(I had to re-drill ALL of them; no problems drilling except hitting a couple staples). They're definitely on there solidly now.

I spent an hour or two re-doing the left foot because the alignment looked a little off after the first mounting. The last step was to saw off the ends of the screws. I would have liked to use a cut-off tool and and the Dremel, but mine's busted so I used a hacksaw. Aside from a couple old holes showing and some scars from the hacksaw, the job looks pretty clean.

They'll get their first edges tomorrow morning and then it's skating time. Crossing my fingers...

Thanks for following. I'd love to hear any comments.

[Shayno 1]

Looks a little "Frankensteinish"......but wow...you sure made it look easy....something I would not have attempted before seeing this post anyway.....Good job, like to hear if they function properly....to be honest I can't foresee why they wouldn't....Nice Work!

[Gummer12 134]

[goaliekilr 0]

Nice work, but I bet your new blades outlast the pressboard in the insole.

[Noonan! 0]

I bet your new blades outlast the pressboard in the insole.

Good point goaliekilr. I'll be happy if they get me through a couple years while I save up for a "respectable" pair. Hey, At least they're unique.

[ponder 0]

Well done, I think you did a good job for sure. I definitely wouldn't go this route on an expensive pair of skates, but for a cheap pair it makes sense as the cost of riveting would've been similar to the cost of the rest of the skate! Plus projects like these are just fun :) Let us know how they feel on the ice! And I'm sure you know this already, but removing the footbeds after every skate will help give the cheap insole a little more life.

[Noonan! 0]

So far so good! I got them sharpened today and got a few minutes at an outdoor rink. The ice was crappy but the alignment on the holders was great and that's what I was worried about. Looking forward to some smooth indoor ice on Tuesday. Thanks for following.

[goblue9280 33]

I think there's a rule that you're only allowed to use a wood stick while rocking those skates... I'd recommend a Sherwood 5030 with a Coffey curve.

[HockeySavants 5]

If you wanna make those last you could definitely looking into making a custom Fiberglass Outsole for them.

I work with custom moldings and you can either replace the entire outsole and have them last a much longer time.

[ahbroody 1]

I think there's a rule that you're only allowed to use a wood stick while rocking those skates... I'd recommend a Sherwood 5030 with a Coffey curve.

That made me laugh.

[Noonan! 0]

If you wanna make those last you could definitely looking into making a custom Fiberglass Outsole for them. I work with custom moldings and you can either replace the entire outsole and have them last a much longer time.

HockeySavants, could you post a link or more info on the custom outsoles? That sounds interesting.

[Noonan! 0]

Just got back from 2+ hrs on some smooth ice and they're awesome. I think the alignment is actually better for me than it originally was.

[HockeySavants 5]

Update on the custom outsoles, I managed to get something somewhat functional but still no finished product. I think the best way to do it is create a good mold