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skates89

How To Make your Old Graf 705s Lighter

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I have struggled these past few years with the new technology and the old. I have tried all the Bauer X60 The MLX and although lighter, just to dam stiff for me. It has killed me to think I have to give up on my grafs cause they are a bit heavier ( yes I started working out a little more ) They say weight at the bottom of the extremities is the hardest to remove on skates and hardest to move physically. So true. I dont fatigue half as fast in the MLX but I also didnt feel the natural skating ability and ability to flex the ankles. So I was in such a delima cause I have skated in these for the past 20 years and just do not want to give up on them.

So I set out to see how I could reduce weight without hurting the integrety of the skate. First Thing I did was replace the cobra runner with the tuuk custom pluses. I also have a pair of shaved blades with about a little more than half the steel left on them. If you have the cobra runner and full steel. This alone is a signifant savings in lower weight. Next I investogated the Hardware ( the torx screws and anchors that hold the runner to the skate ). They are steel. If you remove them all and put them in your hand and hold your hand down low you can feel the significant weight difference when compared to what I changed them out to. All aluminum anchors and scews ( absolutly no weight to these and if you dont want to use the aluminum you can use the titanium which is as strong s the steel if not stronger and light as hell. Next I stragically removed some of the TPU that sits underneath the runner with lots of 1/8ths holes and cut out to holes for the runner bolts ( all of this adds up ) Next I water proofed the boots, like three times and the laces. If you remove the cobra runner and those two bolts that hold the blade to the runner and then take all the anchors and screws and hold them in your hand you wont believe how much weight that is at the very bottom of the boot.

I am nearly done now and i will post pictires later and I will say they are feeling way lighter. I do not know for sure how many grams I took off these skates but i will say they feel significantly lighter and the water proofing has helped them not to get water logged during games which made them even heavier. Im really happy with my solution and figured to share it with other who have these skates and would like them a bit lighter. Trust me over a long game this adds up. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. I know this has been a wish of many graf owners and trust me there is weight to be removed very easily. Hope this helps someone

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Did you weigh them before and after ? I'll bet the reduction is much less than you think..

I am definitely gonna weigh these. I actually have a new pair with the cobra runners and no mods. So I will weigh each skate and post the results. Its not just the torx screws and anchors I removed. its also those two big screws that hold the blade to the holder. More radiased steel whichis lighter than a full blade on the cobra. I wish they would make fusion steel for the tuuk custom plus or the cobra runner. I mean look at what they have to say about just changing the blades on the ls2s with fusion steel. You can bet any weight removed is aplus and trust me mine are feeling way lighter. Think about it just changing the runner to the LS@s with this fusion steel would be a big benifit

The Bauer Tuuk Lightspeed Fusion runner features a combination of steel and aluminum. This innovative construction reduces the weight by 27% versus a standard stainless steel runner. Weight at the extremities, like the runner, is the hardest weight to move for the body. Therefore, reducing this weight by 20-30 grams makes a big difference. At full extension during a skating stride taking just 1 gram out of the runner is equivalent to removing 4 grams from the boot! With the Tuuk LS Fusion runner's weight savings of 27%, the player will notice a difference in the skates weight and performance.

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One gram is roughly the weight of a US dollar bill. Removing a couple grams here and there is not going to make as much difference, especially when you have to weaken the skate in order to achieve that savings.

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One gram is roughly the weight of a US dollar bill. Removing a couple grams here and there is not going to make as much difference, especially when you have to weaken the skate in order to achieve that savings.

Your probably right but they sure feel lighter. I dont think changing the hardware is gonna weaken the skate and id say its more than a gram Im shaving. Id say its more like 15 to 20 grams with the shorter radius blade aluminum hardware and otehr stuff I have mentioned. I wish I had one of those scales lol Im trying them out tonight so well see if they feel a little lighter or if its all in my head and when I find a scale ill measure them for sure. I wish they had these fusion blades for the tuuk custom plus runner

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As a bicycle frame and component builder, I wanted to save weight on paper. As a racer, I wanted dependability. Here were a few truths I had found out:

1) Aluminium (I'm English, so don't take the mickey out of the spelling) and steel NEED an anti-galling/anti-galvanic corrosion element so that you can ACTUALLY remove the hardware.

2) Titanium and other dissimilar materials need the anti-galling agent, as well.

3) Aluminium is a poor metal choice for bolts unless you have HIGH quality tools and a torque wrench. It needs to be SIGNIFICANTLY over-sized. Aluminium can be very brittle and bolt heads can be EASILY sheared off.

4) Titanium is actually quite brittle, and needs to be over-sized as a bolt, as well.

5) Unless you plan on servicing these parts on a VERY regular basis, you could be in for FAILURE.

6) You had better keep spare parts on hand, as you will NEED them

7) How about scallopping your steel where it mounts in the holder (topside)? CCM/Reebok does this with success. Tall steel manoeuvres better than short steel. Why give up the ability to manoeuvre for a few grammes?

I am not trying to discourage you. in fact, I want to ENCOURAGE you to design, test, and spec a light weight AND durable skate. Oddly enough, these measures you are taking would be good for a fastest skater competition in the All Star Game!!!!

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As a bicycle frame and component builder, I wanted to save weight on paper. As a racer, I wanted dependability. Here were a few truths I had found out:

1) Aluminium (I'm English, so don't take the mickey out of the spelling) and steel NEED an anti-galling/anti-galvanic corrosion element so that you can ACTUALLY remove the hardware.

2) Titanium and other dissimilar materials need the anti-galling agent, as well.

3) Aluminium is a poor metal choice for bolts unless you have HIGH quality tools and a torque wrench. It needs to be SIGNIFICANTLY over-sized. Aluminium can be very brittle and bolt heads can be EASILY sheared off.

4) Titanium is actually quite brittle, and needs to be over-sized as a bolt, as well.

5) Unless you plan on servicing these parts on a VERY regular basis, you could be in for FAILURE.

6) You had better keep spare parts on hand, as you will NEED them

7) How about scallopping your steel where it mounts in the holder (topside)? CCM/Reebok does this with success. Tall steel manoeuvres better than short steel. Why give up the ability to manoeuvre for a few grammes?

I am not trying to discourage you. in fact, I want to ENCOURAGE you to design, test, and spec a light weight AND durable skate. Oddly enough, these measures you are taking would be good for a fastest skater competition in the All Star Game!!!!

Hi thanks so much for your reply

Well i thought of that but tall steel moves me away from my lower position of gravity. That is why I like the Tuuk Custom pluses but Ihave considered your idea and Ill probably remove the weight of the steel of the blades from the top. Definitely a solid idea. I have like 3 sets of blades for these tuuk cusotm pluses all at differant radiuses. One of a 10 foot radius a 9 Foot Radius and the other about a 7 Foot radius now with all the steel cut down ( abouthalf the blade left ) I love the 7 foot radius much better than the ten foot or the 9 foot. I can cut on a dime. My center of gravity is lower by a few more mms and i am in much better control of the blades not to mention my first two three steps are faster. That is why I wanted to lose the weight off the skate cause as anyone knows it is a little harder to get the good glide of a 7 foot radius as oppsed to a 10 foot. Well looks like I solved that also and I explain that later

So I played last night and could tell right away I had better glide. Hardly fatigued at all and the skates didnt water log and looks like what I shaved off, lightened up just enough. As for the aluminum anchors you are right to be concerned I am 190 lbs 5'9 and none of the bolts or anchors came lose and I skate hard on the ice. I have used these aluminum anchors for awhile now on other skates and no problem and I have no problem pooping in a few if one happens to bust off. No big deal. Im definitely happy with the progress I have made on this skate

Ok well now for the new trick to help with glide. Call me crazy but I got to thinking about the hollow and how polished I could make it. The final pass on any or most machines leaves a lot to be desired. It is never like glass which would definitely decrease drag. So I took my diamond stone fine indian and cleaned out the hollow first by hand very carefully. The I wrapped the stone in 1200 grit wet and dry sand paper and with a little water went down the entire hollow. The hollow started to look like a mirror. Im actually gonna go down it with 1500 next. I topped it off by running some very fine polishing coumpound and let me tell you, wow. The glide last night was unreal. I felt totally ontop of the ice and hardly fatigued at all. Trust me this is a great thing to do you wont believe what a difference. When I have time Ill post pitures of everything all I can say is right now I m definitely very happy. The skates did not feel as heavy on my feet by the third period at all and that is a result of a combination of all the things I have done so far

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This was the best I could do. I didnt know how to upload pictures on here it was asking for a url. If you look at the steel bolts alone trust me thats a lot of grams compared to the aluminum which is weightless practically. Look at that mirroed finish of the blade hollow. Trust me that equals glide. The anchors I have pictured also and the holes I cut out of the tpu to shave weight. The integrety of the skate is in no way affected. I felt no loss of any kind and the boot flexed the same..Only lighter now. Next Ill get true weight difference. Im estimating at least 40 grams of weight taken off between changing the holder the less radiused steel as compared to the full steel height that comes with the cobra runner..The original steel bolts and anchors and those two big screws ont he back of the runner.All Needless weight that can be shaved off. PS and as mentioned I skated on these last night totally differant experience and not one of those anchors shered off. Also withthose anchors I can change all my runners now on most any skate and no need to go to the skate shop and I can interchange and experiemnt with other runners if I like..No brainer for me..Im always saving money now to boot. I hope this information in some wayhelps others..Theres no need to pay others to change runners when you can do it yourself

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Aluminium screws for the Tuuks? Brave, brave, brave...

No disrespect; I admire your ingenuity.

I know but they really have shaved of some weight with all other things I mentioned I have done. Water proofing change off the runner and shorter steel. I have not had one of these aluminum posts break off yet and I am gonna actually add two more to the back and front and the boots did not collect much water if any last night. I ran like two coats of the water repellant heavy on them. It all adds up because in the past late in the third id start to feel a little fatigue from the original skates and last night I didnt feel any and the skates felt the same weight as when I began the game..A definite imporvment and I will have extra anchors and bolts in the event one snaps, a quick thing to fix if needed.

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As a suggestion, I would add a couple of Ti fasteners on the runners, they would be like "coppers".

Hi

thanks for the suggestion are they like the brass rivits ?

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They would be stronger like the brass. I would suggest getting then in the same style as your aluminium fasteners. Also- get that anti-galling paste-you will need it!!!!

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I'm still curious what the weight difference between a stock skate and this little experiment. I think the 705's are heavy enough to begin with that mods you have made will be negligible.

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Your legs are the strongest muscle group in your body. I wear NXGs full time but have no problem busting out my old Vapor 10s for pond hockey and barely notice a difference. The importance of skate weight is severely overblown, especially when we're talking about +/- a few grams.

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They would be stronger like the brass. I would suggest getting then in the same style as your aluminium fasteners. Also- get that anti-galling paste-you will need it!!!!

Hi thanks again what does the anti galling paste do..?

I'm still curious what the weight difference between a stock skate and this little experiment. I think the 705's are heavy enough to begin with that mods you have made will be negligible.

Im getting a weight scale today lol Somewhere for sure

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Anti-seize paste prevents cold-welding via galvanic corrosion. With all the water those skates are subjected to, those fasteners can seize EASILY.

Finish Line makes a good one.

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Your legs are the strongest muscle group in your body. I wear NXGs full time but have no problem busting out my old Vapor 10s for pond hockey and barely notice a difference. The importance of skate weight is severely overblown, especially when we're talking about +/- a few grams.

There is a reason why everything is so light today. Including sticks goaly pads etc. Reaction times and speed and less fatigue are highly achieved as a result of these differences. I dont care what age you are. You put a pair of these grafs on your feet playthe entire game and by the times the thrid comes and they start to get water logged there is no doubt in my mind you will not be nearly as quick and light footed as you are in a new apx2 skate. It is a scientific fact. You ever compare a new set of goaly pads to these old leather pads. OMG what a difference and when those old pads water logged forget it you could not move. No mystery why todays players are faster. nevertheless Ilove the low cut boot and the feel of the leather on my ankles. I am definitely much more crafty in these that any of these rock solid high cut boots and I dont have the money to buy a custom pair with flex points and a tpu outsole as id like installed on them..So the next step is to reduce weight so I can stay in these and so far so good. Im liking them a lot..Next as suggested Im gonna scallop a little more weight off the blades and they should be really good to go. They are now almost as light as my G7s

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x2 on the anti-seize.

If you have galvanic corrosion, sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) will eat the aluminum oxide (corrosion), but not base aluminum; sometimes enabling you to loosen mixed steel/aluminum hardware. Useful on bicycle seat posts. :)

Anodizing is also aluminum oxide, so don't use NaOH on anything anodized!!

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Anti-seize paste prevents cold-welding via galvanic corrosion. With all the water those skates are subjected to, those fasteners can seize EASILY.

Finish Line makes a good one.

Thanks so much Im definitely gonna treat the bolts with that and get a few of those Ti fasteners. Is that the name for the them T i ?

x2 on the anti-seize.

If you have galvanic corrosion, sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) will eat the aluminum oxide (corrosion), but not base aluminum; sometimes enabling you to loosen mixed steel/aluminum hardware. Useful on bicycle seat posts. :)

Anodizing is also aluminum oxide, so don't use NaOH on anything anodized!!

Oh my lord you guys know your stuff lol Holy Im lost lol You know a quick way to polish my aluminum wheels on my truck without breaking out the buffer lol

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Finish Line is the product brand.

MThockeydad is right about the sodium hydroxide, you want to prevent aluminium oxide so it doesn't get to that point.

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