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MikeWhy

Tips for skate conversion

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So pretty soon I will most likely be getting the LE one.9 skate and converting it to roller. Any tips on making sure they're centered and important things to emphasis while doing it? also should i bake before or after the conversion?

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Before taking the holder off, mark with a permanent marker, the center point at the toe and heel. The center point can easily be found by looking for the injection molding seam at the base of the holder - at least for Tuuk LS2. After the holder is removed, draw a line between the two points.

As far as where to mount front to back, this is not an exact science, due to wheel base and boot size variation, and a little personal preference. That said, too far forward will create a very unstable skate so take your time to get this right. If you have access to other factory installed skates try to emulate those.

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Before taking the holder off, mark with a permanent marker, the center point at the toe and heel. The center point can easily be found by looking for the injection molding seam at the base of the holder - at least for Tuuk LS2. After the holder is removed, draw a line between the two points.

As far as where to mount front to back, this is not an exact science, due to wheel base and boot size variation, and a little personal preference. That said, too far forward will create a very unstable skate so take your time to get this right. If you have access to other factory installed skates try to emulate those.

thankyou very much. What about the baking?

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Regarding baking - my thoughts are that it probably doesn't matter before or after. I convert my old hockey skates which are already baked and everything works great. New inline skates have their chassis mounted without baking. So whatever works for you.

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Just had the one.9 le put on a vanguard hi-lo chasssis look factory, but these are the fastest lightest skates I've ever had also more support than my old tour zx9 which was also a nice skate just wanted something custom. I took them to total hockey in st.Louis and had them converted for only 20 dollars would post a pic but I don't know how yet anyone know how to post pics from a smart phone?

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Doing a first time cheap conversion both because I need some new rollers and I thought it would be a fun learning process. I'm using older CCM 1052 Super Tacks for the boots (thank you BuzzLightbeer) and a basic aluminum Hi-Lo (thanks to voxyledbetter) for the chassis, planning on Bones Reds for the bearings. I've watched videos and read a lot to get the basics down, but I'm running into some issues with this particular setup. Any help is appreciated on the following hangups.

1) Finding the center line

I got these skates in the mail with the holders removed because one holder was already broken and I figured I'd have to take them off anyway, so I'd just skip one step in the process. Turns out that wasn't too smart. I'm also in a bit of a tough spot because these came with prolite 3 holders that are impossible to find for sale and have a really irregular rivet pattern, so I can't just go out and buy a pair to line them up with the rivets and mark at the seam. I did notice that there are two small holes in the front and back of the skate that look like they might be where the center line should be, but it's hard to tell (see pictures below). Anyone have advice for finding the center line without the holder?

Vent%20Holes%20Resize%20No%20line.png?_sVent%20Holes%20Resize.png?_subject_uid=1

You can see the front hole pretty easily. The back hole is just behind the 9 1/2 stamp if you squint. Any significance? Could I use these holes as two points to draw the line through? If not, any other methods to get the center line?

2) Large gap between chassis and boot

The front of this hi-lo chassis has a slight curve to it. When I match this up flush to where it should be on the front of the skate, there's a significant gap between the back post and the outsole. I didn't expect it to match perfectly by any means, but I'm concerned that pulling the boot down this far may cause too much stress on the outsole. Would a shim be appropriate? Should I not worry about the gap and just bend the whole back of the skate down?

rear%20post%20gap.png?_subject_uid=14373

3) The Chassis I have is size medium, which is recommended for current skate sizes 8-9.5. I figure this should fit well, but it just looks small eyeing it up. Should I mount so there is an equal amount of outsole extending past the plate in the front and rear?

4) Outsole durability for roller

Had trouble finding specs on whether the outsole was full composite or some kind of fiberglass, but an ebay sale for the same skate seems to have copy and pasted the catalog language, listing it as "full carbon fiber composite." That's the best I have to go off of right now, but I know there were a few iterations of the 1052 with different specs. These were the 2003 model with the integrated heel wedge that was covered by the eyelet facing (http://1.cdn.nhle.com/nhl/images/upload/2010/10/2003CCM-1052-Tacks_std.jpg). Same generation as the first "Pro Tacks" I think. Anyway, mostly concerned about the Hi-Lo T-nuts tearing through the sole under stress. Is it possible to do anything to reinforce the area? Any advice/experience with converting this line would be appreciated. Thanks!

Edited by jonesy9020

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Bump. Need help with this. Can someone let me know if my photos are showing up? They are on my computer but not on my phone. Not sure if I accidentally linked to a local file.

None of your photos are showing up here.

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I'm about to convert the One.9 white LE to inline with Sprung frame. I'll post a photo when finished.

here's something I did years ago with the original vanguard that came on the wicked 1's. Easton Synergy 1500c. I actually found another pair in australia and had them shipped over so i have these again for ice.

lightest inlines ever!

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10378919_10155057158585123_8444737245446

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