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Sparx Skate Sharpener - At home sharpener

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14 hours ago, IPv6Freely said:

I didn't miss any point. It's big and heavy and might break if you drop it. So, don't drop it. 

Nicholas G. said "Our store is considering doing a loaner/lease program to the hockey association for the 16U and 18U AAA teams "

If you're going to do that, you need to know if the machines can stand up to the sort of abuse customers will give them. I am also interested in the robustness of these machines, in case I do transport mine. I'm going to take care, but accidents do happen, and it'd be nice to know the sort of abuse they can take. A two foot drop onto a floor is unlikely, but a 6" drop could easily happen. 

Colins posted a nice video which shows the Pelican case is very tough. But I honestly don't think I can trust myself to carry a $1500 machine around. 

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1 hour ago, IPv6Freely said:

Now THAT'S a price that makes it worth it to DIY. It's tempting... 

Can also get it at B&H Photo with no tax in most states for the same price minus the tax cost for many of us on Amazon.

 

B&H link

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Just received an email with a coupon code for $100 off.  That just pushed me over the edge.  Machine ordered.

 

"SPARXSUMMER100" for anyone else interested. 

Edited by ricepow
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13 hours ago, ricepow said:

Just received an email with a coupon code for $100 off.  That just pushed me over the edge.  Machine ordered.

 

"SPARXSUMMER100" for anyone else interested. 

bummer...if I would have known this was coming I would have waited...  oh well.

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13 hours ago, shoot_the_goalie said:

bummer...if I would have known this was coming I would have waited...  oh well.

Contact them. If it wasn’t too long ago they may honor the coupon. Never know unless you ask.

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20 hours ago, shoot_the_goalie said:

bummer...if I would have known this was coming I would have waited...  oh well.

If it makes you feel any better, the UK price is £1200, or over $1,500. That includes 20% sales tax. I’d be curious to know how well they sell in Europe.

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Question about the alignment process.  I forgot it had an alignment mode so I used the movement mode to line up the wheel with the alignment tool.  I was able to put the wheel right up to the slot and aligned it to what I thought was precise.  Then just before starting the sharpening I realized there was an alignment button so I decided to use that to check if it matched up.  The alignment mode does not allow the wheel to go right up against the alignment tool.  With this view with the slots quite a few centimeters away, it looked at least about 4 clicks off.  What gives here?  I decided to put it 2 clicks toward center to compensate but wasn't sure which method is most appropriate.  Even with that, the skates felt pretty good, so I was curious if it even matters all that much.

Edited by rh71el2

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2 minutes ago, rh71el2 said:

Question about the alignment process.  I forgot it had an alignment mode so I used the movement mode to line up the wheel with the alignment tool.  I was able to put the wheel right up to the slot and aligned it to what I thought was precise.  Then just before starting the sharpening I realized there was an alignment button so I decided to use that to check if it matched up.  The alignment mode does not allow the wheel to go right up against the alignment tool.  With this view, it looked at least about 4 clicks off.  What gives here?  I decided to put it 2 clicks toward center to compensate but wasn't sure which method is most appropriate.

In my experience the alignment process is just going to get you close, once you are close, use your edge checker and move the disc a few clicks one way or the other to get the level edge.  

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1 minute ago, rh71el2 said:

^ I don't have an edge checker and saw that it cost upwards of $60 online.  Am I missing something?

For me,  I wouldn't sharpen without an edge checker especially if you are changing discs to sharpen other blades (maybe one kid likes 1/2in and the other 3/8). I have found that there can be up to 6 clicks of alignment adjustment needed between discs. I am pretty picky when it comes to the edges being level thou. I like the Sparx Edge checker, I have had others but they wore a little grove in the aluminium where the blade touchs and it throws out the reading. The Sparx edge checker has a little piece of stainless steel that contacts the blade and doesn't wear.  As for  your alignment issue, I have only aligned mine once in two years (and I travel with the sharpener), I always go by the edge checker to move the disc if required.    

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If you don't have an edge checker, you can use a carpenter's square to eyeball it.  Put the steel on a flat surface and line it up to the square vertically.  It should touch evenly the whole height.  Test multiple spots.  If it leans away at the top or bottom, you need to adjust the alignment.

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34 minutes ago, rh71el2 said:

Question about the alignment process.  I forgot it had an alignment mode so I used the movement mode to line up the wheel with the alignment tool.  I was able to put the wheel right up to the slot and aligned it to what I thought was precise.  Then just before starting the sharpening I realized there was an alignment button so I decided to use that to check if it matched up.  The alignment mode does not allow the wheel to go right up against the alignment tool.  With this view with the slots quite a few centimeters away, it looked at least about 4 clicks off.  What gives here?  I decided to put it 2 clicks toward center to compensate but wasn't sure which method is most appropriate.  Even with that, the skates felt pretty good, so I was curious if it even matters all that much.

You can reach in and move the alignment wheel closer to the alignment tool by simply pushing up on the wheel.

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19 minutes ago, psulion22 said:

If you don't have an edge checker, you can use a carpenter's square to eyeball it.  Put the steel on a flat surface and line it up to the square vertically.  It should touch evenly the whole height.  Test multiple spots.  If it leans away at the top or bottom, you need to adjust the alignment.

If you're off at say the heel, you should be off the same amount at every point on the blade. The carriage position is fixed as is the blade placement. So there is no way it can ride from left edge to right edge. I could be wrong, but thats how I understand it.

Also keep in mind that most steel is punched. So it's not perfectly flat. If it's not perfectly flat, using the above method may give you a false reading.

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3 minutes ago, stick9 said:

If you're off at say the heel, you should be off the same amount at every point on the blade. The carriage position is fixed as is the blade placement. So there is no way it can ride from left edge to right edge. I could be wrong, but thats how I understand it.

Also keep in mind that most steel is punched. So it's not perfectly flat. If it's not perfectly flat, using the above method may give you a false reading.

True.  The carriage and mount position are fixed, so it eliminates a variable axis.  But it's still worth checking.

I also lay the steel flat on the table when I get it to check for twists and imperfections from the stamping process.  So I know if I should be expecting any.  This isn't precise by any means, and is not a comparable alternative to an edge checker.  But it's a better than just eyeballing if you don't have one, until you can get one.

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54 minutes ago, stick9 said:

If you're off at say the heel, you should be off the same amount at every point on the blade. The carriage position is fixed as is the blade placement. So there is no way it can ride from left edge to right edge. I could be wrong, but thats how I understand it.

Also keep in mind that most steel is punched. So it's not perfectly flat. If it's not perfectly flat, using the above method may give you a false reading.

I could never get the same reading on both sides of my old blades for that reason. Which steels are not punched?

I now have Bauer LS5 runners and they have parallel sides. My previous Step steel runners didn’t. Just a sample of one set of each though, so you can’t draw firm conclusions. 

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1 hour ago, Sticktape said:

For me,  I wouldn't sharpen without an edge checker especially if you are changing discs to sharpen other blades (maybe one kid likes 1/2in and the other 3/8). I have found that there can be up to 6 clicks of alignment adjustment needed between discs.

That's not right. I would never have a Sparx if that were the case. Talk about chasing your tail.

I switch between 3 rings and my alignment doesn't change. If I were to get a new ring and it was off I would return it.

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5 hours ago, Leif said:

I could never get the same reading on both sides of my old blades for that reason. Which steels are not punched?

I now have Bauer LS5 runners and they have parallel sides. My previous Step steel runners didn’t. Just a sample of one set of each though, so you can’t draw firm conclusions. 

I believe Tydan and Bionic are the only ones. Could be more that I am not familiar with though.

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What prices have you seen used units selling for that are in good condition? I found one for sale for 550 and was going to pick it up just to mess with but the warranty is expired on it. The unit works fine and looks like new but I was not sure how well they hold their value. 

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18 minutes ago, Nicholas G said:

What prices have you seen used units selling for that are in good condition? I found one for sale for 550 and was going to pick it up just to mess with but the warranty is expired on it. The unit works fine and looks like new but I was not sure how well they hold their value. 

I haven’t even seen one aftermarket, so can’t comment on pricing.  That said, interested to hear what they’re including.  I don’t really like buying used stuff, but if including some wheels, maybe an edge checker, that seems like a good grab.  I was $1,226 to the door with the unit, 4 wheels and an edge checker when I bought mine & I’d do it again tomorrow.  I’ve bought 3 more wheels and a filter since.  (as stated above, I’m never getting my money back, but LOVE IT)

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Would accidentally turning the alignment wheel without going into alignment mode mess anything up?  I was changing rings and for some stupid reason started turning the alignment wheel.  After the sharpening I checked the edges and they were fine though.

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4 hours ago, Nicholas G said:

What prices have you seen used units selling for that are in good condition? I found one for sale for 550 and was going to pick it up just to mess with but the warranty is expired on it. The unit works fine and looks like new but I was not sure how well they hold their value. 

I paid $650 shipped for my used Sparx, two wheels no edge checker.  I've seen them go in the $600-700 range.  I bet I can find a buyer within a week for that one at $550 plus shipping if you wanted.

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