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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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is it a stage 2? Im having problems myself with leftover epoxy in the shaft. I was able to get the tenon out though.

Nope original RBZ and I meant hosel not tenon sorry. Edited by JDS93

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is it a stage 2? Im having problems myself with leftover epoxy in the shaft. I was able to get the tenon out though.

How did you go about getting the hosel out?

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I have a stage 2 that I found broken at the blade yesterday and the shift itself looks basically new. I don't believe the rbz shafts are tapered (could be wrong), but if that were the case would a standard blade fit at the base of the shaft? If the tendon and glue and adhesives were all removed from the original blade, that is.

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Has anyone done an Easton v7. Broke mine in the blade reviewing a pass. Shaft is basically new. I can see a line which must be the fuse point, however it looks very narrow and I cannot see a tapered blade fitting it.

Any advice?

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Buzz, how do you get the remaining tennon out so nicely? I end up chiselling it out into a million pieces :/

Edited by .am

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Buzz, how do you get the remaining tennon out so nicely? I end up chiselling it out into a million pieces :/

I did a tutorial a few pages back. Drill a pilot hole in the tenon and a needle nose pliers should take care of the rest.

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I'm sure it's been covered before, I tried searching the thread and didn't find the info. I have a Bauer Nexus 600 that doesn't get much use and I'd like to put in a new blade and give it to my girlfriend to use. (I shoot left, she shoots right) Can I just use a heat gun and "pull" the blade out, do I need to cut it first, and if so how do I know where? I know I need a tapered blade to put back in, I'm just new to re-constructing sticks, and don't wanna ruin it. Thanks.

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Is there a fuse point on the Warrior Evo sticks?

i just found one of these as well i am looking to convert, anyone have any luck with this model? ill give it a shot if not.

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i just found one of these as well i am looking to convert, anyone have any luck with this model? ill give it a shot if not.

The blade can be separated, but I hacked away at the shaft. My guess is the fuse point is around the W towards the blade.

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Broke the blade of a Bauer Pro Stock G3 stick. Was curious how tuff it is and if there is a lot involved to removing the blade from the shaft.

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Was able to do 3 this morning! Quite happy, they all vary in length by about 1cm between the 3 but was a good result

i5di1h.jpg

The CCM was the worst one to do, took about 45 minutes to dig out all the crap, then a standard blade was to thick and a tapered was to thin, had to shave back the hosel which took another 30 minutes before it finally went in. Although I had to slam the stick down 30 times before it went in all the way. ( not lightly either )

The 1N was the easiest of them all, cut and insert. Nothing to cut away or pull out (:

Mako was relatively easy as well, cut down to low to start with, measured up an approximate length it would be with a blade inserted, cut, 5 minutes to dig out the left overs and blade went straight in.

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The mx3 and s19 are simple chop and insert jobs. You'll lose much of the taper (especially on the s19) and need a plug on the butt end to put the length back if you play with a full length stick. I don't recall an ax1 conversion off the top of my head.

Regardless, cut as low as you can to start, then check the cut against your blade tenon. As needed, cut a little more until it fits.

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For the s19, I was thinking that I would lose most of the taper, so I think for that I'll just use it as a road hockey stick. Wasn't aware I'd lose a lot of the taper on the MX3 though, I might just try to find a 1N instead then.. Thanks for the help!

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It depends how much is too much for you. I play with short sticks and I prefer a wood plug for dampening so I've converted and used s19s myself with no issues. Ymmv.

If you already have a tapered blade, hold it up against the broken shaft for comparison. You should be able to get rough estimate how much length you'll lose before you commit.

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Ah okay thanks. I haven't had any luck at all finding tapered blades, so I might just have to hold off until I find a reliable (and cost-effective) place to buy them.

I'd suggest harrow hockey blades

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I have an x50 ops that's broken, have you guys done a X60 or similar to the X50? I've got a couple of tapered blades. I think it should work out, unless you tell me otherwise

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Did anyone manage to do T1 MX3? I picked up a broken one at a rink the other night and the asymmetrical shaft is killing me, I've already cut 5~ inches

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