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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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Okay, maybe I'm overthinking this...

Does the tenon itself move around inside the shaft?

If you've got a tapered shaft, and it fits around the tenon at the end of the shaft, there would be space around the end of the tenon inside the shaft, right?

And has anyone noticed shorter tenon blades seem to increase flex compared to longer tenon? My Dolomite seems to have more flex with Synergy than with Christian blades (which are half an inch longer in the tenon).

that's what I always wondered myself. There should be some space/air at the end of the tenon inside the shaft, but I never had any problems so I left it as is.

I got a blade or two where someone cut off part of the tenon. I guess it was for this reason to increase flex. Either that or reduce weight or improve balance.

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this may or may not help you. One factor is the length of the tenon inside the shaft. I was just measuring some of the tenon lengths of my replacement blades and they are pretty close to the total amount I cut off from the fuse point.

http://img204.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tenonrr9.jpg

http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl4bm3.jpg

different brand/companies will obviously have different lengths/measurements.

Edited by fastmiele

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It'd be neat to have a forum devoted to this, or at least one master thread with positive results of certain cut ops/blade combos.

We've merged topics in the past but that doesn't seem to stop people from starting new ones on a fairly regular basis. There is no way we're going to devote an entire forum to something as simple as cutting a stick.

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is that a response +? if so where did you cut i just broke mine and i'm not sure.

You can definitely pull the blades out of an R+.

Here is the process I've used for 3 of these sticks.

1) Find the fuse point - the hairline crack near the bottom around the shaft

2) Cut about the depth of the shaft around the fuse point - this removes the epoxy/resin they use to fuse the shaft/blade together at the fuse point - you should be able to see the blade tenon at this point

3) Heat it up

4) Secure the shaft with some clamps and pull the blade out

If that fails heat it up more and it will eventually come right out.

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http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl4bm3.jpg

See, even with the same brand of sticks, it could vary depending on the model and the year of manufacture. Even if all the conditions are met, the graphics may not have been painted/silkscreened/stuck on exactly the same.

Finding the fuse point would still be the best guess, and doing what sniper mentioned may be the best way.

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Well I cut about 1/2" off of my Christian blade, seems like it did bring the flex back somewhat.

I just have to think that the blade tenon won't flex, it will increase the stiffness of that section of stick. And that would use the endpoint of the tenon as a lever. Now any physics knowledge I had is long gone, but seems that the closer you can get that endpoint to the blade itself, the lower the kickpoint would be, and the more flex you would get. One piece sticks being the lowest kickpoint possible.

Well, I'll give it a shot in game and see how it feels. Last time this blade/shaft combo felt too stiff, now it feels alright.

Hrbk, I'm one and the same. All over the web. Way too much time on my hands at work.

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is that a response +? if so where did you cut i just broke mine and i'm not sure.

You can definitely pull the blades out of an R+.

Here is the process I've used for 3 of these sticks.

1) Find the fuse point - the hairline crack near the bottom around the shaft

2) Cut about the depth of the shaft around the fuse point - this removes the epoxy/resin they use to fuse the shaft/blade together at the fuse point - you should be able to see the blade tenon at this point

3) Heat it up

4) Secure the shaft with some clamps and pull the blade out

If that fails heat it up more and it will eventually come right out.

interesting, so you took a hacksaw and started cutting around the fuse point until you hit the tenon. So after you heated it up and pulled out the blade, is it possible for you measure the length and width inside the shaft (is it 14 mm X 26 mm) ?

Edited by fastmiele

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is that a response +? if so where did you cut i just broke mine and i'm not sure.

You can definitely pull the blades out of an R+.

Here is the process I've used for 3 of these sticks.

1) Find the fuse point - the hairline crack near the bottom around the shaft

2) Cut about the depth of the shaft around the fuse point - this removes the epoxy/resin they use to fuse the shaft/blade together at the fuse point - you should be able to see the blade tenon at this point

3) Heat it up

4) Secure the shaft with some clamps and pull the blade out

If that fails heat it up more and it will eventually come right out.

interesting, so you took a hacksaw and started cutting around the fuse point until you hit the tenon. So after you heated it up and pulled out the blade, is it possible for you measure the length and width inside the shaft (is it 14 mm X 26 mm) ?

Exactly 14mm by 26mm.

Cutting around the the shaft made pulling the blades out easier for me.

Actually here is a picture of the R+ blade I pulled out. The line at the bottom was where the fuse point was - It probably didn't pull out the 1st time so I cut an inch higher and it came out smoothly following the process I outlined above.

The resin on the blade definitely doesn't melt like normal stick glue so you have to pull it with quite a bit of force before it comes out of the shaft.

TPS.jpg

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whats that greyish fluff at the top of the tenon? Is that the resin you are talking about?

Another method I thought of doing... take a actual tapered shaft that is sold as a tapered shaft, and measure it up against the broken OPS. Using that as an estimate, would you be able to cut based on the length of the tapered shaft?

Just asking cause I've jus gotten a dolo tapered shaft, and was going to measure it up to a broken TPS response.

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That's almost exactly what the aftermath of my RM9 looked like: first cut was a little too close to the blade, and nothing would budge, but about an inch higher and it came clean out with a full taper intact.

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is that a response +? if so where did you cut i just broke mine and i'm not sure.

You can definitely pull the blades out of an R+.

Here is the process I've used for 3 of these sticks.

1) Find the fuse point - the hairline crack near the bottom around the shaft

2) Cut about the depth of the shaft around the fuse point - this removes the epoxy/resin they use to fuse the shaft/blade together at the fuse point - you should be able to see the blade tenon at this point

3) Heat it up

4) Secure the shaft with some clamps and pull the blade out

If that fails heat it up more and it will eventually come right out.

interesting, so you took a hacksaw and started cutting around the fuse point until you hit the tenon. So after you heated it up and pulled out the blade, is it possible for you measure the length and width inside the shaft (is it 14 mm X 26 mm) ?

Exactly 14mm by 26mm.

Cutting around the the shaft made pulling the blades out easier for me.

Actually here is a picture of the R+ blade I pulled out. The line at the bottom was where the fuse point was - It probably didn't pull out the 1st time so I cut an inch higher and it came out smoothly following the process I outlined above.

The resin on the blade definitely doesn't melt like normal stick glue so you have to pull it with quite a bit of force before it comes out of the shaft.

TPS.jpg

wow, unbelievable. I can't believe what I am seeing. I think most people would of cut off another 2-3 inches after not being able to pull out the blade the first time. How much heat did you need to apply ? Also did you get any help with one person pulling the shaft and another pulling the blade ?

Is that a wood blade ? The tenon looks like wood.

Thanks for posting your pictures. It helps us other people.

That's almost exactly what the aftermath of my RM9 looked like: first cut was a little too close to the blade, and nothing would budge, but about an inch higher and it came clean out with a full taper intact.

I wonder why it would not pull out at the fuse point but pull out if you cut another 1 inch higher ?

whats that greyish fluff at the top of the tenon? Is that the resin you are talking about?

Another method I thought of doing... take a actual tapered shaft that is sold as a tapered shaft, and measure it up against the broken OPS. Using that as an estimate, would you be able to cut based on the length of the tapered shaft?

Just asking cause I've jus gotten a dolo tapered shaft, and was going to measure it up to a broken TPS response.

The greyish fluf I believe is a soft sponge for shock absorption.

I don't think taking a true tapered shaft and matching up with a broken OPS will work because I think many OPS have different dimension specifications.

Edited by fastmiele

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The greyish fluf I believe is a soft sponge for shock absorption.

Keeps the cracked glue/resin from sliding up and down the shaft and making noise.

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wow, unbelievable. I can't believe what I am seeing. I think most people would of cut off another 2-3 inches after not being able to pull out the blade the first time. How much heat did you need to apply ? Also did you get any help with one person pulling the shaft and another pulling the blade ?

Is that a wood blade ? The tenon looks like wood.

Not a wood blade - just the pictures were very orange. Its composite stick.

I didn't have the luxury of using clamps when I was pulling this one out. I heated it up with my gas stove in the kitchen - then secured the shaft between my arm/legs and yanked it out with my other arm. I recall almost popping my shoulder out when the blade finally budged. I would recommend clamping it down on a table and pulling it out. :)

Thanks for posting your pictures. It helps us other people.

No problem - I'm glad you find it useful.

That's almost exactly what the aftermath of my RM9 looked like: first cut was a little too close to the blade, and nothing would budge, but about an inch higher and it came clean out with a full taper intact.

I wonder why it would not pull out at the fuse point but pull out if you cut another 1 inch higher ?

Not too sure but it has worked several times. It seems to make it easier. I think just breaking up the layer of resin where the blade/shaft meet helps just enough to pull it out. Like I said that stuff doesn't melt - you're basically forcing it out.

whats that greyish fluff at the top of the tenon? Is that the resin you are talking about?

This is simply foam for vibration.

Another method I thought of doing... take a actual tapered shaft that is sold as a tapered shaft, and measure it up against the broken OPS. Using that as an estimate, would you be able to cut based on the length of the tapered shaft?

You can also use a tapered blade - line it up against the original blade and mark a line where the tenon should fit into the shaft.

Edited by sniper_23

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I didn't have the luxury of using clamps when I was pulling this one out. I heated it up with my gas stove in the kitchen - then secured the shaft between my arm/legs and yanked it out with my other arm. I recall almost popping my shoulder out when the blade finally budged. I would recommend clamping it down on a table and pulling it out. :)

One thing I would not recommend is trying to heat and pull this stuff out by yourself. You can really hurt yourself even if two people are involved. I once asked my friend to help pull one way and I pull the other way and he thought it was kind of stupid and possibly dangerous. So he recommended me to rest the inner elbow of the blade on top of a doorknob. One person would pull down on the blade while the other person would pull away on the shaft. I have to say it worked pretty well.

http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn9837kw3.jpg

I wonder why it would not pull out at the fuse point but pull out if you cut another 1 inch higher ?

Not too sure but it has worked several times. It seems to make it easier. I think just breaking up the layer of resin where the blade/shaft meet helps just enough to pull it out. Like I said that stuff doesn't melt - you're basically forcing it out.

I wonder what the inside dimensions would be at the fuse point ? Still 14 mm X 26 mm ?

The greyish fluf I believe is a soft sponge for shock absorption.

Keeps the cracked glue/resin from sliding up and down the shaft and making noise.

I guess I should of known a little better. How much shock absorption could the fluff sponge do anyways ? Probably minimal.

Edited by fastmiele

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That's almost exactly what the aftermath of my RM9 looked like: first cut was a little too close to the blade, and nothing would budge, but about an inch higher and it came clean out with a full taper intact.

I wonder why it would not pull out at the fuse point but pull out if you cut another 1 inch higher ?

Ah, my mistake - I wasn't clear.

I couldn't see the fuse-point on the RM9, so I just eyeballed the lowest point on the shaft that was the correct width/depth of a typical tapered shaft. When I cut there, the blade wouldn't come off. Out of curiosity, I sawed straight through and had a look at the 'cross-section' of what I'd cut. It was obviously 100% blade, since I could not see the two layers I should have seen (hosel and tenon) if I'd cut at the fuse-point.

I made another cut about an inch higher, heated the hell out of it, and as soon as I pushed the rebar down the shaft, the rest of the blade popped out.

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whats that greyish fluff at the top of the tenon? Is that the resin you are talking about?

Another method I thought of doing... take a actual tapered shaft that is sold as a tapered shaft, and measure it up against the broken OPS. Using that as an estimate, would you be able to cut based on the length of the tapered shaft?

Just asking cause I've jus gotten a dolo tapered shaft, and was going to measure it up to a broken TPS response.

I have thought the same thing when looking at my Mission L2! Great minds think alike (or run in the same gutters)

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One thing I would not recommend is trying to heat and pull this stuff out by yourself. You can really hurt yourself even if two people are involved. I once asked my friend to help pull one way and I pull the other way and he thought it was kind of stupid and possibly dangerous. So he recommended me to rest the inner elbow of the blade on top of a doorknob. One person would pull down on the blade while the other person would pull away on the shaft. I have to say it worked pretty well.

I use something called a "spreader" you can buy it at any hardware store.

I use 2 clamps - one on the blade, and the other on the shaft - Then you put the "spreader" in beetween the clamps - and start pumping - Which makes the "spreader" bigger and bigger - until the force against the 2 clamps pulls the blade out. No shoudler injuries, no back problems - no wrist issues.

Just pump....

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/irwinquickgrip/550QC/

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here's a se with the fuse point line, and a ccm vector camo that i was able to turn into a blade. The cut on the ccm was the length of the hosel of the 7k blade down from the last edge of the square ccm logo, incase anyone needs a starting point for cutting a ccm.

ccm and 7k

ccm and 7k 2

ccm and 7k 3

I cut a little bit to far into the blade but i don't think it will affect the performance.

The fuse line on the se is near the end of the first black ring and it cuts into the second black ring

SE

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One thing I would not recommend is trying to heat and pull this stuff out by yourself. You can really hurt yourself even if two people are involved. I once asked my friend to help pull one way and I pull the other way and he thought it was kind of stupid and possibly dangerous. So he recommended me to rest the inner elbow of the blade on top of a doorknob. One person would pull down on the blade while the other person would pull away on the shaft. I have to say it worked pretty well.

I use something called a "spreader" you can buy it at any hardware store.

I use 2 clamps - one on the blade, and the other on the shaft - Then you put the "spreader" in beetween the clamps - and start pumping - Which makes the "spreader" bigger and bigger - until the force against the 2 clamps pulls the blade out. No shoudler injuries, no back problems - no wrist issues.

Just pump....

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/irwinquickgrip/550QC/

Do you have a picture or drawing on how its suppoed to be set up?

Edited by kovalchuk71

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Do you have a picture or drawing on how its suppoed to be set up?

This image of the "spreader" will make it more self explanitory. I put a soild clamp on the shaft, then another solid clamp on the blade.

Then I put the "spreader" in beetween the two clamps and start pumping, The

STOP A, will then contact the clamp on the shaft and stop, the STOP B will contact the clamp on the blade and stop - then a few more pumps will create a

"Hercules" or "Sampson" effect and push the blade out...Just like Sampson pushed the two walls down in the Bible story in Judges 16:29-30

hockey.gif

Edited by YouTuuk

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