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Hey guys! Long time lurker, first time poster 🙂 I work for STX and manage their Ice Hockey division. Hills over here has been an integral part in providing us with feedback on an initial prototype that we sent him. To answer some of your questions... Fit: The Halo glove (pictured), will be tight to hand, similar to the Surgeon line. We can't have these be loose fitting, otherwise the purpose will essentially be defeated. Protection: We would not be pursuing this product if protection wasn't a first thought. As someone pointed, we took inspiration from our RZR lacrosse glove. We beefed it up, and have put the gloves through industry standard protection testing. The gloves have passed with flying colors. We also have prototypes out in the marketing with elite youth and junior players. Release date: TBD... most likely May/June HPR2 Pro gloves: Improved four roll glove based off the HPR2. Releasing this Friday. I like to talk gear. Email me at ericb@stx.com if you'd like to shoot the shit.

It's all about finding the most shallow hollow that allows you to control your edges and maximize glide. Using too deep a hollow requires more energy to push off, leading to quicker muscle fatigue.

FV1 has been fantastic. Doesn't fog and is very durable. I just wish it weighed a little less.

I agree that this site is the best resource. Chassis: Hi Lo, Flat, Marsblade O1 (more for ice training) and R1 (designed for playing inline) and the Sprung chassis are the main playing options. I have tried Hi Lo, Flat, the old Tuuk Rocker and Sprungs and definitely prefer Sprungs, but you do have to maintain them (and if you want them to last, it's better to use them indoors then outdoors). I haven't tried the Marsblade R1, but would if my Sprungs were shot and I couldn't buy another set of those. The Sprung creator is working on a more durable version called the Fizix, but there's no definitive information on if or when those will be released (just prototypes on FB that have been posted for 2-3 years now). There are more detailed threads here with detailed discussions on the Marsblade O1, R1 and Sprungs. Wheels: This depends on your weight and the surface you're playing on. For outdoors on Asphalt, the Labeda and Revison Asphalts are two that are regularly recommended. For smooth cement, Labeda Gripper yellows are wheels many players I know use for that surface. The best wheel I've used for Sport Court is the Konixx Pure (I use them in +2); the newer version of that is the Konixx Pure X (haven't tried that yet, but they're discussed in a wheel discussion thread). Personally, I spend the money on the good wheels for Sport Court, but just get the cheapest, hardest wheels I can find for outdoor use and if I'm ever on cement indoors I either use cheap wheels or very well used wheels that I've retired for Sport Court use. Bearings: Personally, I don't notice a huge difference in bearings as long as they're clean and spin. I've tried Swiss, Ceramic, Helo Quark, Abec 7, Abec 5 ect. In my opinion, either buy good bearings that have removable dust shields so you can clean and lube them on a regular basis or just buy the cheapest bearings you can find and replace them when they stop spinning smoothly. I notice a huge difference with high end vs. cheap wheels on Sport Court, but really don't notice a big difference with bearings. Some people swear by high end bearings though.

This is pretty much the best website you'll find. Other than that, look through IW and just read the marketing blurbs will give you some ideas of what's out there. The basic rundown is either all 80s, 76/80 hilo, and then Marsblade. Boots just whatever fits you for ice wood give you a good idea. Wheels depends on surface you're going to skate on. It's pretty straight forward honestly

I skate on 7/8" when using standard width steel and 1 5/8" on Flare and have no issues moving people. You just have to use more force to dig your edge into the ice. The depth of the hollow doesn't really change how much leverage/force you can generate, it just requires you to push harder into the ice. If you use a flatter hollow don't push harder into the ice you will sit on top of the ice instead of sinking in.

Small sample size before the lock down but when I dropped my sharpen to 3/4 from 5/8 I seemed to have a harder time pushing people. They seemed to be able to push and move me more. It felt like I couldn't dig in the ice as well to push a heavy guy etc. I love the glide and would never go back but like I said very small sample size. I use to wear a mirrored visor so take what a say with a grain of salt.

The real issue with this sort of testing is players tend to base their comments of a comparison to their current stick. That's a moving target and offers little to no baseline. What you should try to do is get testers to use a "control" stick before testing, something you know. All comments and opinions should be made in comparison to the control.

I wouldn't put a huge amount of weight on the results of this "test". Everybody has their own preference for kickpoints and flex profiles. If you ask someone to "test" something with a different kickpoint and/or flex profile than they are used to then of course something is going to feel off and not to their liking, especially at first. And generally, the higher you go up the hockey food chain, the more this will be the case.

indeed is the ft4 stick to go along with the ft4 skates. only a matter of weeks till the ft5 twigs come out 😂

I have a really wide head and have really struggled finding a helmet that fits. I currently wear a Reebok 4k which works well, but I just tried on the CCM 3DS which was freaking amazing. I tried all the other cheaper CCM ones and none worked, but the 3DS was THE most comfortable helmet I have ever tried. Downside , one of the most expensive ones out there.