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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble


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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/02/21 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Just a suggestion before you give up: -take the super feet out (they could just exacerbate the problem). Take the red insoles out and just use the blues. Wear super thin socks and have them rebake the skates. Have them bake them good (I mean the boot should be soft, not just warm) and then have them put on your feet and laced up about 90%. Tie them like you would when skating, so if you keep the bottom laces loose, top laces tight/loose, etc. and tie to top outlet. Do not Saran Wrap this time and do not have them mold it by hand either. Just sit there and let your feet do the work. Then after baking, don't skate on them for 48 hours. Finally, change out the laces with waxed laces. PHL should do the re-bake for no charge, and the most this would cost you is a new pair of waxed laces. It's very possible, from what you're describing, that they are wrapped too much around your foot and causing a bit too much friction/not enough give in spots. Switching to waxed is so your wrap stays in place, when you "loosen up" the current wrap.
  2. 1 point
    That's a bummer. What you're describing with the arch pain is the whole reason I went with a pair of custom Trues. I couldn't find retail skates that didn't do that to my feet. Now I have no issues.
  3. 1 point
    Custom + holders are dirt cheap right now. I would find a newer set and sell the discolored ones.
  4. 1 point
    I find that taking out the ear covers/protection helps with that. I wear the 710 too and initially had the same problem as you.
  5. 1 point
    Howdy, This one. Well, assuming they were both rated on a tester that uses two points on the stick the same distance apart (and probably same general location on the stick). I think the issue here is that people use flex ratings for two different purposes... One is as a way to know which stick to buy. "Today I used a 70 flex stick. I want to buy a new stick and I want to know how it will flex as compared to my current stick, with both of them cut to a similar length". That one is pretty easy, assuming both sticks are measured the same way... A 70 flex 60" stick will feel the same as a 70 flex 65" stick AFTER THEY ARE BOTH CUT TO THE SAME LENGTH. The other way, is "I'm changing the length of my stick. What flex do I want to buy so that at my new length, the stick will flex the same amount / more / less?" That's when all the stuff about "cutting the stick reduces leverage" comes in. The confusion comes in when folks talk about that "changing the flex"... Kinda, not really. If you define the flex like manufacturers seem to as "how much the stick deflects when put in the test machine with fixed points" then clearly you're not "changing the flex". You're changing how much leverage you have. I don't think Bauer or whoever it was helped this when the marketing dept. put lines with new flex ratings at the end of their stick to help folks know how much less leverage they'd have when they cut their stick down. _My_ question would be if anyone has ever compared the machines/procedures used by the different manufacturers to see if CCM uses reference points 48" apart while Bauer uses points 50" apart, etc. That would actually be really nice to know so that flex ratings between different stick models/manufacturers could be reasonably compared. Mark
  6. 1 point
    Humans are the biggest variable and even the best equipment manager or pro shop individual has bad days. I would love to think I never make mistakes, but that would not be factual.

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