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Davideo

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Posts posted by Davideo


  1. 2 hours ago, iceman8310 said:

    wax laces shouldn't be used

    Not necessarily. You can tie the bottom tightly and then loose at the top and those differentials should stay with waxed laces. Of course you won't get further flex with waxed laces, but it should be stiff at the bottom and loose on top. Depending on exactly what you are looking for, it is unlikely to be a good solution, but when talking about dropping a grand on skates, an $8 test might be worth it.

    As someone who liked the amount forward flex on mid-grade '90s Tacks, all skates available today don't have much forward flex to me.

    • Like 1

  2. On 6/22/2022 at 7:44 PM, start_today said:

    For me, like 3-4 months playing 3-4 times a week, adult leagues and pick ups. It’s usually not so much the pop, it’s that the blade gets soft and I can flex it with my hand. 

    (maybe that also means my form sucks and the blade it getting more torque than the shaft is flexing, so the blade goes quicker)

    Me too. I never notice any change in shaft performance, the blade goes soft after a few months. Though it's about 50/50 whether I break the blade first or it breaks down internally.


  3. On 5/4/2022 at 8:05 PM, puckpilot said:

    Yes, I did look, and if you look at the top edge of the blade, specifically the heel, you can see it straighten and bow back out as it flips. It's most noticeable on the back edge of the blade. Putting in the p29 shows a transition from a heel curve to a toe curve, showing the differences and similarities between a heel curve, a mid curve and a toe curve, and see those differences and similarities migrate through a transition from heel to toe curve. Also the photos your using, I don't think they're any better than the ones I'm using. One's faded way out and one's way dark, making difficult to pick out the details and differences. The devil's in the details.  

    Also, you did you look at the videos I posted and hear the part where the creator of the curve describes the heel as fairly straight?

    Not sure if you are understanding the point flip12 is trying to make. Look at the shafts of the sticks in your gif. You will see that the shaft moves considerable, making the image very difficult to make an accurate comparison on blade. My apologies if you are understanding that.

    Ultimately whether a blade difference is significant or not depends on the individual and their preferences.


  4. With respect to curves, either get used to a new one or fight the trends via custom, pro-stock, two-pieces, etc. It just got to annoying for me to find PM9s so I transitioned to an 88.

    As far as why the push to toe curves, the old man in me will shake my fist on the porch and drone on about kids these days just wanting to toe drag and then go bar down in tight to the net. The pragmatist in me will just adjust to a new curve and then be sure to duck if I'm behind the net and a young gun is winding up in the slot.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  5. I've heard it described as a way to help with lace bit by creating additional volume, however, that is flawed thinking. It can change slightly where the laces pressure your foot. I have heard persuasive arguments that it can make laces more or less likely to loosen depending on which way you do it. But the type of laces can make a much bigger difference in this regard. In summary, I've never heard of any significant difference and it seems mostly personal preference. They may be additional reasons that I haven't heard of or am not recalling at the moment.


  6. 28 minutes ago, Westside said:

    I’d think any side by side comparison on a seller’s website would answer this question for you. Carbon vs fiberglass, different liners, different tongues, different steel. No different than a top tier skate from another brand compared to one of their mid range offerings. Are those differences ‘minor’ to you? That’s for you to decide where you want to spend your money

    Yes, like I already said, I can just look at the specs, but then my question of "However, how much does any of that really matter?" Of course this is personal opinion, but would like some feedback/opinions on if this matters and why/how much.


  7. I'm wondering about differences between the TF7 and TF9. I found a little discussion earlier in thread, but 37 pages is a lot to sift through. Clearly I can see the on the specs of lighter weight, carbon fiber vs fiberglass, different tongue, etc. etc. However, how much does any of that really matter? The TF9 is nearly double the price of the TF7 so it seems like it would need to be pretty substantial and it appears to me the differences are more minor.

    The back story is that I'm picking up some TF7's this weekend (already fitted and baked just don't want to start the 30 day period yet just in case), but I want to make sure there isn't some large advantage to the TF9 that I'm missing.


  8. 9 hours ago, shoot_the_goalie said:

    It really isn't about the width of the post, but more about the internal structure and thickness of the post/the quality of materials in making the post.  If you had a solid piece of steel (through the core), it could probably be 1"-2" wide and never dent, and conversely you can have a 4" wide post that's has thin walls that would dent easily from a street ball.  With that said, I have a 2-3/4" post width net, and I shoot regulation pucks at it and it only dents with a very square hit. (I can shoot hard, but not pro hard)  Cost about $180 from Hockey Shot.  Hockey Shot also makes a net for about $450 that they claim can withstand 100mph shots.  Another option is go to local rinks and see if they have any nets that are so beat up that they're willing to offload them.  However, in all likelihood that's rare and you'll probably have to put a new net on, which is pretty tricky with official ice goals.

    Thank you, this is good info. I'm thinking total weight is probably a good gauge of dent strength. The Hockey Shot $180 weighs 45 lbs and the "indestructible" weighs 80 lbs. I may end up going with that $180 one. 


  9. My apologies if this isn't the right forum.

    I'm setting up an outdoor rink and need to get a pair of goals. I know from my youth 20 years ago that ice hockey pucks just dented the posts on the metal goal I had at the time. It looks like 2 3/8" is the post thickness of legit ice goals. I see a small amount of conflicting info online about the suitability of 2" thick posts for on-ice use. Zdeno Chara is not going to be showing up, but there will be some skilled adults with shots probably hitting 70+ mph.

    2 3/8" goals are more expensive and harder to locate. Is that necessary, or can I get away with 2"? Or I'm open to any suggestions. Thanks.


  10. On 7/20/2021 at 1:06 PM, caveman27 said:

    Interesting. I had to look up the rules for UFAs and the expansion draft.

    https://soundofhockey.com/2020/11/12/breaking-down-the-seattle-kraken-nhl-expansion-draft-rules/

    It's a possibility that the Kraken would want to pick up Ovechkin and Ovechkin would accept their offer. Ted Leonsis is known for letting go of key assets, like Barry Trotz, Braden Holtby, etc. It wouldn't surprise me if they lowball Ovechkin on a future contract and Ovechkin accepts an offer from another team that has the cap space.

     

    Possibly, but I would not consider those "key assets" to be very equivalent. For example, Ovechkin, the face of the franchise, is different than a declining Braden Holtby (.897 in his last season with the Caps). My opinion based solely on speculation is that term is likely to be the sticking point between Ovi and Caps, if there is one.

    • Like 1

  11. 19 hours ago, Beflar said:

    Everyone is bashing it so I will play devils advocate.

    Looks good if you have a broken jaw or something. 

    Also for people like me who went full cage, I can bring back my beloved mirrored visor out of retirement:)  So you can have that visor you love and you can protect your expensive dental work at the same time..

    Also if you love being chirped.  With this set up of mirrored visor and cage, you will never be lonely on the ice again.

    Yeah, my first thought was pros who have a lower face injury. Small market though. But maybe bigger than those who want to be chirped...

    • Like 1

  12. On 5/10/2021 at 12:40 AM, helmet91 said:

    Went and looked at my oldest sons' bags from their old club in the States...  They are made by Z2 enterprises in MN.  They're really nice quality and are built to last.  As in, kids are getting these things in mites and carrying up into bantam and midgets.

     

    https://z2bags.com/product-category/ice-hockey/

    Z2 used to be called Laurin and I picked up a Laurin NOS bag on eBay half a dozen years ago. It's a tank and looks barely used after at least a few hundred trips to the rink and has skate pockets, which I like. Downside is that it is yellow and purple, but people just assume I'm a Kings fans and like their retro colors. Also very easy for me to spot in the locker room.


  13. On 11/10/2020 at 9:06 AM, kkancho said:

    In terms of durability, I'm glad I'm not the only one who had issues with the blade breaking at the hosel. It either broke at the hosel within the first 2 games -- first shot even.. or it was a tank and lasted more than any other blade I've used.

    Yep, exactly what I've experienced. I've switched to buying one at a time to maximize the chance of warranty replacement if it has a quick hosel break.


  14. On 9/19/2020 at 11:19 PM, MrData said:

    Best all-around stick is a stiff-flex Easton Aluminium with a wood blade. You can probably find that combo online for $50 tops. It's indestructible, you can snap any $400 composite twig in half with a good slash, and you probably won't outperform it on the ice (judging from your post). Plus, it's a classic twig so you'll look really cool. Go with any curve, since slashing and stick checking doesn't depend on what curve you have. Have fun!

    I love it. Though actually I've had a couple aluminum shafts split at the hosel. But I then just sawed off the split part, put in a longer wood butt end and you're good to go.

    But yeah, it's basically a piece of rebar.


  15. On 8/1/2020 at 9:50 PM, boo10 said:

    I'm sure I'm in the minority, but l personally believe shoulder pads should be mandatory in beer league, not for shoulder or arm protection, but to protect the chest.  A puck to the chest can stop your heart.  It's a ridiculous macho thing for guys to play without shoulder pads, and there's no good reason for it.  It's at the point where I play coed tournaments now and there are 110 lb women playing against 200 lb men, and they're not wearing shoulder pads because, "well if the guys don't wear them....".

    I don't know if this sort of data is available, but I don't know how much shoulder pads necessarily help in that sort of situation. Growing up a kid a few years older than me got hit in the chest with a puck while wearing shoulders pads and his heart stopped and he died (I will caveat that this was in the '90s and shoulder pads have improved). As I understand, incidents of heart stoppage due to a puck to chest are incredibly rare. Sure, you can take the, "if it can save one life" sort of attitude. But at the same time you might as well wear your helmet while driving to rink as I would guess that is more likely to save your life than shoulder pads preventing heart stoppage from a puck to the chest, particularly if your car is older and doesn't have side airbags.

    Edit:

    I did some brief research and found this article: https://www.chicagotribune.com/investigations/ct-chest-protectors-commotio-cordis-standard-met-20160408-story.html. It focused on baseball mostly and summarized that there is no indication that chest protectors or even special heart protective gear reduce the risk of commotio cordis (apparently what it is called). The articles claims about 10-20 cases in the US, mostly younger boys, and is rare in adults. And the best solution seems to be immediate access to an external defibrillator to restore proper heart rhythm. 

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