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Westside

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Posts posted by Westside


  1. ‘Best’ is all relative, right? Do you want protection, breathability, etc. 

    I went through this journey years back. At the time I ended up with CCM QLT shoulders. I liked the breathability and profile. They had enough protection for beer league and wouldn’t have prevented the shoulder tear I got wearing them. I wore them for 4-5 years before moving into CLs. Preferred the CLs for moisture wicking and felt the breath ability was about the same, if not slightly better, than the QLT.


    When the FT4 line came out they were pitched as true replacements for the CL line. Unfortunately I tried the FT4 Pros and got rid of them almost immediately going back to CLs. For me, the FT4s simply did not breathe nearly as well as the other pads and that’s my primary concern. 


    When the FT6 line launched and I found a pair of FT6 Pros for half price I figured why not. IMO CCM improved ventilation significantly compared to the FT4 line and that’s not accounting for the aer-tec part. I sold the CLs and these are now my primary shoulder pads. 
     

    So for me and my ‘best’, the FT6 Pros and CLs fit the bill. I wouldn’t pay retail price for them, but if you can get them at a discount, they’re well worth it 

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  2. Stumbled upon this thread and looked at the skates online. Anyone picked up a pair? Do they fit the same as FT6 Pros? 
     

    Saw Canadian stores were selling them for $400CAD during the holidays. In hopes of a future sale I thought these could be a great boot for roller 


  3. Yep. Use an exacto knife and go slow making sure you’re only cutting through the excess fabric holding the shot blocker in place. If you want after the shot blocker itself is removed, you can use a seam ripper to get in the small space between the glove breaks to remove the fabric that was leftover from fabric that was cut off. 
     

    Did that with a pair of Jetspeeds and you would never know there was a shot blocker on them 

    2v2eCP3N5x1YqB.jpg

    • Like 1

  4. 6 hours ago, krisdrum said:

    My take?  The carbon fiber outsole and boot transfers the feel of the ice and the inputs from your body much more efficiently than other skates.  There is little to no "slop" in the system and that creates the sensation of far more grip.  

    As for laces, I've found you can significantly downsize your lace length.  As you mentioned, you don't need to tie them very tight, so you aren't pulling as much lace slack up when tying.  The eyelets/facing aren't flexing to the same degree as other skates, so again, less slack needed.  I remove the laces from the top eyelet when removing the skates.  At second eyelet, laces are barely still in, maybe an inch or two of slack.  That gives me enough room to unlace the rest of the boot wide enough to get my foot out, once I break the "suction" by pushing down on the back of the skate (not the tendon guard) and pulling my foot up and forward. It takes a few extra seconds to relace the top eyelets when putting them on, but I find that far more preferable to having insanely long laces.  I was using 96" previously.  Dropped down to 84" with the TF9, waxed laces in both cases.  

    I’ll third this comment. I also only undo the top eyelet with about an inch of lace sticking out of the second eyelet in order to get my skates on/off. Went down a size in laces compared to Bauer/CCM. The laces that come stock with True are absurdly long


  5. 21 minutes ago, Hawks18 said:

    @PetterErlandsson & @Marsblade - thanks for taking the time to answer questions!! It has been extremely helpful to me several years later...

    I don't know if this thread's still being tracked, but...what's the R1 radius insert that closest resembles what you'd feeling using an O1 chassis?

    ...and approximately how similar would R1 and O1 skating experiences feel, while using this radius?

    Did you read the first page of this thread? Believe what you're asking was covered throughout that page.

    If not, here's another thread where Petter discusses the difference in the R1 radius compared to the O1

    The feel of the two really depends on how tight you keep the center bolt of the O1. I used to keep the O1 bolt as loose as can be. That can't really be replicated with the R1 as even the insert with the most movement (H5-T8) doesn't rocker as much. Now, with that said, I did an 'experiment' when I initially got the R1s and wore both chassis at the same time. The difference wasn't as drastic as I would have thought

     


  6. 4 hours ago, VegasHockey said:

    I like the 2024 Catalyst skate design. Best looking retail skate they have ever made.

    https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:US:968e037d-fb71-4110-ba3d-4778ab89e1d1 

    Interesting look with the back heel leather material being added. I, personally, think the current Cat Pros are the best looking skates True has ever made, but the new 9x4 don’t look terrible. Granted, I’m not a fan of all the branding (like the giant Neurofit+ on the back and sides) or the unnecessary embellishments on the toe cap/lace facing, but at least they’re no longer yellow. The name on the other hand is pretty brutal. Do we really need ‘x4’ on every skate? 

    Will be curious to see how well the new ‘plastic base shell insert’ works in holding rivets more securely and prevent them from disintegrating so quickly.


  7. 6 hours ago, Leif said:

    I’m sorry you’re upset.

    Not upset, simply stating that you didn't seem to be listening to feedback anyone was giving you. Your (now edited) post also had you saying you were going to size UP to get more space between your toes and the cap of boot rather than size DOWN which is what myself and others had recommended. Same goes for disregarding how substantial the fit of a True boot changes when baked and how malleable they become


  8. 10 hours ago, Leif said:

    As I mentioned above, I’m not so bothered about the toes, a friend who turned up while I was in the shop hates his toes brushing the toe cap, he prefers some space. 

    I don’t think you’re reading my response correctly. You claimed that your toes were ‘almost touching the cap’ which means they weren’t. This was BEFORE baking them as you also stated. Read any comprehensive write up on fitting True skates and you’ll see that they all say your toes should be pushed pretty hard against the toe cap before baking. Once they are baked, they open up and your toes should no longer be against the toe cap, but will fit how you’re describing them now. 

    But hey, it’s your money. Not sure why you bother asking for advice if you disregard it 


  9. I thought it started with the Yotes, specifically Bauer 4500 helmets, because they couldn’t get the color so the team had to spray paint it. Maybe that was BS, but when they first launched the desert alts all other helmets were glossy.

     

    Honestly not sure how I feel about it. On one hand, matte helmets don’t show finger prints or scratches which would be a huge plus for us players and I’d imagine EQM. On the other hand, they just look off…

    https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/carson-soucy-of-the-vancouver-canucks-flashes-a-smile-news-photo/1940920539

     

    Lokks like uni watch made a post about this topic too  if you zoom in on Hughes’ Bauer helmet (4th in the carousel) it is definitely a matte vinyl wrap on a glossy helmet 

    https://uni-watch.com/2023/11/21/are-matte-helmets-about-to-become-an-nhl-trend/


  10. If your toes aren’t even touching the cap, the skates are way too big. Your skates should be hard against the cap before baking. They open up about a 1/2 size after baking.
     

    Based on what you wrote, you should try a size 6W

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