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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
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Miller55

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Posts posted by Miller55

  5. Posted · Report reply

    22 minutes ago, Westside said:

    Acetone, a rag, and a LOT of elbow grease. For whatever reason the paint is on there real good and you have to scrub like hell to get it off. I forget if it was the silver or the blue that came off easier, but definitely one of the colors does. I did use black angelus paint for the smallest sections near the toe cap and tendon guard where I couldn’t get my fingers into the crevice where the two parts meet. Left the True logo silver on the outside of each boot just so it’s easier to determine which boot is which at a quick glance. 

    Ah that makes sense. I tried with acetone and I was going pretty hard and got nothin, so I figured I'd ask. Maybe I'll try to Dremel with a buffer pad soaked in acetone or something to try to save time

    • Like 1

  7. Posted · Report reply

    14 hours ago, iceman8310 said:

    I wonder how now Graf/Vaughn compared to Swiss-made grafs in terms of quality

    I would say they both feel very good for the top end models, can't say anything about lower level models. It's hard to say if the Swiss actually feel better or if it's the placebo effect. They're both well-made skates

    • Like 1

  9. Posted · Report reply

    If you have a retailer for Graf, they can order the Swiss-made Grafs. The only issue is that it depends on the retailer what the payment arrangement will be. I tried to order G9000s a while ago, and one retailer said I would just have to guess my size and buy them and he would order and I could pick them up. Different retailer fitted me and then ordered me 2 sizes of G7s and I picked the ones I wanted. Spoke to this retailer last summer and he was willing to do the same thing, but I ended up moving away before I could get to it

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Never tried the goalie skates and cannot speak to the sizing. It's possible they did adjust the sizing from the original player skate release.

     

    For me, I wear a 9 Bauer Supreme and I fit an 8 or 8.5 tf9. I can put on the 8.5 without baking, but not the 8. To get the 8 on I had to bake them a bit and take out the tongue. I ended up going with the 8.5 because they're more comfortable, but if I were playing competitively and wanted the extra performance I would go with the 8, even though I couldn't get them on initially. So it's definitely possible that a 7 or 7.5 might fit you, but you might have to heat them a bit to find out

    • Like 1

  12. Posted · Report reply

    17 hours ago, stick9 said:

     

    Maybe not. They could be from a womans NCAA program. I know I have bought sub 70 flex pro stock sticks in the past. Most of which are from the NCAA or Junior programs.

    Yup, usually women's college, occasionally juniors. They don't usually get lots of custom options or dressed sticks. Usually what you see is what you get

  14. Posted · Edited by Miller55 · Report reply

    M is the factory, not mid flex.

    65 flex

    T is shaft geometry, so T is a traditional square shaft

    E28804 is the player ID

    V01 is the version of the stick in its line. Version 01 indicates that it is an SMTacks, the new Tacks version. In your case that would mean a standard as3 pro build.

    there's no indication of a curve code, so the p90 that you were told is what it is.

    so you have a p90 as3 pro, 65 flex, traditional square shaft, standard flex profile for an as3. 

     

     

     

    • Like 1

  15. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/27/2021 at 11:18 AM, Hills said:

     

     

    2 hours ago, SolarWind said:

    Here we go:

    https://ibb.co/brTm5sq
    https://ibb.co/V9qBsyM
    https://ibb.co/1sTLMF2
     

    laced eyelet is #6 so surprisingly (since it didn’t feel too shallow on ice) I fail the test miserably below 3rd eyelet

    then @ 3rd I pass

    and about eyelets 1-2 I have about half an inch space so the cut the of boot doesn’t match the shape of my foot. 
    In supremes I pass all across so the volume on 100k is distributed in a different way.

    I have to report that things started to click after another hour on ice yesterday, I played with lacing, laced all the way up but loosely, and the skate started to respond very nicely. So there do appear to be quite significant performance benefits from the one boot piece and some extra flex in it. 

    Good to hear. They don't look horrible, just the top couple eyelets appear to be too deep, but it seems like the tongue should be sufficient to fill that up. If not, maybe you could have an extra piece of felt stitched into the back of the tongue only in that area.

    I've never had this issue, but maybe others have some tried and true advice. To me it looks like you should be able to figure a workable solution is you otherwise are happy with the performance

  16. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, SFL said:

    few years ago i went to stop during a game and my frame cracked off the bottom of an ice book, nearly breaking my ankle (rolled it bad and couldnt skate for months due to ligament damage). 

    eventually remounted the same frame to the boot and used all copper. never had a problem after that. so, from then on I always use coppers on conversions. doesnt matter what it looks like to me, I just want to feel 100% confident that what I experienced before will not happen again.

    I hear you 100%. Roller hockey ankle injuries are rare but awful. I have unfortunately had one myself and it was due to the frames being mounted too far in, causing me to supinate and roll my ankle out. Broke a bone, lot of ligament damage, so I hear you 100%. 

    The issue is that with all coppers you still run a risk. In your case, the steel rivets came loose, but with coppers they won't come loose and rip through the outsole, but they can rip the entire outsole off of the boot, which leaves you with the same net loss. The best thing to do is definitely to throw on a couple extra coppers. I like to do the back 4 all copper, then backmost 2 on the front mount in copper and the rest steel, maybe 1 more copper on the front outside edge, but all copper puts too much strain on the outsole. Just my $.02, feel free to disagree

  23. Posted · Edited by Miller55 · Report reply

    Idk those look pretty fine to me, are your ankles super skinny?

    Can bake them at the same time, no problem. 90 degrees sitting is best, maybe a touch forward but unless you know what you're doing better not.

     

    Pencil test, I have no idea, I have very flat feet and fail the pencil test on everything except Nexus and I still wear Supreme without issue, even though I fail the pencil test horribly (and I use the Bobby Clarke thick felt tongues which eat up even more volume lol). 

    Personally I would say to give it some more time and skate as much as you can during the 30 day warrantee period. You're coming from 10 year old One95s, it's gonna take time. You have 30 days, try to skate at least 3x a week, even 4 or 5 of you can swing it, and then make a decision after a dozen skates

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I'm in the same boat, love sprungs. The stability and feel is unmatched. My issue is that I do feel like there is a bit lacking in power compared to a fixed alloy chassis like the kryptonium.

     

    I have a pair of R1s on the Alkali Revel 1 boots that Marsblade offered from the factory. I use them for outdoor roller and I really don't like them. However, I really think the issue is that I don't like the boots, and therefore it's hard to get a real idea of how the R1s perform.

    I'm planning on converting another pair of TF9s, and I'm undecided if I would rather just stick with the sprungs despite the fact that they're a bit slow, or if I want to try out the R1s on a different boot. I'm a big net-front power forward type, and I love the stability of the sprungs, makes me very hard to move.

    What would you say are the pros and cons of the R1s compared to Sprung?

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