sturdy22
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Posts posted by sturdy22
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46 minutes ago, MrKrypton said:Thanks! That's very helpful. They look pretty close to some of my current 13D skates. Would be nice if the seller knew more about what they had as I'm sure the size must be listed somewhere. Oh well, if they don't work out I can likely recoup some costs and resell them.
I still have a pair of 7000s like these from the early 2000s. I changed the tongues a long time ago but I remember the size tag being down the tongue closer to the toe cap, 4th or 5th eyelet from the toe cap based on the pics in the link. The Nike ignite 1s I have also have the size tag lower down the tongue. The Ignites and 7000s are the same era.
the holder size is a good indicator also.
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1 hour ago, stoney066 said:Anyone order from them yet? I'm a bit skeptical since my order from 9/2021 was never sent to me. The email says after a 1.5 year hiatus, when in truth it's been almost 3 years now.
I am also interested in this. My account and previous orders still show when I log in and I went as far as putting blades in my cart to see the 30% discount I stopped short of placing the order though.
I am hesitant to place an order until i see something confirming the reboot. I hope they do and I was surprised to get the email after so long.I too reached out to Ron K. with no response.
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If you can try on multiple sizes with a bake I would recommend doing that.
I had a pair of size 8 TF9s and a pair of 7.5W TF7s, I was looking to replace my makos (8EE,8.5). I wear a 8.5 in supremes.
The TF9s were very big after a bake and using for a month, easily 3/4 - 1 full size larger than my 8EE makos. I could wear them coaching but for games my foot moved too much in the boot. I also fit 280 edge holders on them with room to spare.
the 7.5W TF7s were a better fit and closer to the makos after baking and wearing but getting them on was a struggle, I still have scars on the outside of both feet. I didn’t keep them long enough to see how the inside padding compressed after prolonged use, the padding in the TF7 is different than the TF9. I suspect that I could have gone down to 7EE after consistently wearing. I also put 272 holders on the TF7s, they came with 263.
Just my experience with True retail skates and I tried everything to make them work for me because I wanted these to be a replacement for the makos.
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Super minor, just use a dab of flexible glue like shoe goo and clamp it. It will hold. I used shoe goo on the liner for my vapor 1X tendon guard, previous owner had used his one skate to pry his other skate off. Shoe goo did the job. It’s been about 18 months.
injected eyelets are a bitch, in my opinion. Maybe waxed laces will help keep them from being snagged.
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13 minutes ago, VegasHockey said:I have never seen a 280 holder mount in 271 holes unless the holes are expanded or worn out. That is VERY weird.
Yeah very strange. Not what I was expecting. Holes aren’t warped but I would definitely have to drill to mount 272 holders.
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9 minutes ago, VegasHockey said:I can't tell from your pic of that is indeed a 271. Is that's what's stamped on the holder?
Yes 271 stamped on holder
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I just pulled a set of ccm Speedblade + 4.0 holders (271) from a pair of size 8 70ks and was going to mount a pair of 272 edge with the understanding that the holes would line up or be real close. Not the case, none of the holes lined up.
Instead of drilling I grabbed a set of 280s to check and to my surprise all holes matched perfectly. So I went with the 280s.
Question is,
Is this widely known or is this a one off?
I did a quick search and didn’t find anything specific. I’ve never worn CCM but found these in my size for $15. One boot was missing a runner. Both holders are marked 271.
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Similar to Bauer. 8.5 Marsblade boot was close to a Bauer 8.5 supreme. I ended up going to a 9 for a little extra room
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The repair (pics) I shared are only temporary, to keep the holes from enlarging. I only coach in these skates so the force on the boot is far less then playing.
Blademaster will sell to US buyers through their New England supplier. I have had trouble in the past ordering even after setting my location to “USA”.
For whatever reason I can only order from blademaster after setting to their USA site if I am not on WiFi. I have to use cell signal, I live in California.
Video link attached explains eyelet size 63 and 64.
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I have done eyelets at home on my skates and my sons. I have a riveter but I don’t have the eyelet attachments. I got a cheap hand held press (looks like pliers) on Amazon for $10 and some 1/4 #8-12 barrel eyelets and washers. Works ok, not as clean as what an actual rivet press and eyelet attachment would do but keeps the holes in the boots from ripping out. The hand tool is pretty cheap and is now completely bent from use but it served its purpose.
If someone was paying me to repair their skates I would definitely get the attachments and do it right.
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The liners are marked left and right, are the outer shells marked?
very cool shins either way
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Definitely look like 5070/6070. Not sure about the double knee wings though. I have a pair of 6070.
In that condition I would guess $200+
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On 6/29/2023 at 1:08 PM, VegasHockey said:I have seen some players use a dremel to widen the parabolic channel in the middle of the holder, so they could use their old steel.
I did this with a set of powerfly holders. I used a dremel and widened out the channel. Turned out great no issues.
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13 hours ago, Stewie said:I had good luck with my first hoapa stick but have broken several now in the same area. They were all the same original model but it seemed like something changed in the construction at some point . I’ve only really liked them for roller hockey but tempted to try some of their new models to see if they could be good for ice
Where did they break?
My son has used the PS1 shaft and blades, composite and outdoor. The composite blades were nice and light the outdoor blades were heavy but that was expected. I was impressed at how light the shaft was at 75 flex. he’s only using them for roller but I’m curious how they would hold up on ice.Im interested in trying some of the others especially for the price.
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On 6/4/2023 at 6:08 PM, Wicked3Aussie said:Not sure what you’re referring to regarding cutouts?
Previous versions of top of line Vapor’s and Supremes have a solid outsole (including the Mach from memory).
Hyperlites have unfortunately suffered structurally for the need to save weight and contatruction costs.
So the cut outs I’m referring to are at the heel and forefoot. Same as the picture of the hyperlites you shared. The outsole hasn’t been solid in any of the pro stock Bauer or CCMs I’ve seen lately (vapors, nexus, ribcors), they all have the cut outs. I haven’t seen a pair of the machs so I can’t comment on those. Attached is a pic of a pair of converted 2s Pros that a player brought me to have rivets put in. Cuts outs in the heel and forefoot are visible.
Also added is a pic of Pro Stock Hyperlites.
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3 hours ago, Wicked3Aussie said:It’s not just the heel that is a liability, the front portion of the outsole is also hollow unlike previous versions with a solid outsole.
It can be done and has been done but the risk is premature and unrepairable breakage.
I determined my boots were too expensive to risk and kept them for ice instead.
The last several pairs of vapors and supremes I’ve converted had the cut out at the heel and forefoot and mounting wasn’t a problem. I have a big player still using his vapors (with cutouts) almost 3 years later with R1s and another on 2s Pros, also with cutouts, on the kryptonium chassis.
but I understand, skates are expensive and not something to take chances with. -
On 2/26/2023 at 5:50 PM, hockeyplayer91 said:Thanks for the reply. That's exactly what I was concerned about, I'll find a different boot to mount them to
What is the heel of the hyperlite made of that would keep it from being used to mount a roller chassis but allows an ice holder?
there are players around here (California) that have converted hyperlites with the yellow outsole and don’t seem to have a problem.
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On 5/24/2023 at 5:13 PM, tony said:R1 would be much better for competitive play. I hear the O1 can just explode if hit by a puck hard enough.
Both chassis's will be damaged if they take a direct hit with a hard shot. We have several pairs of both the R1 and O1.
Marsblade has fantastic customer service.
We had a cracked lower on a pair of O1s and a cracked upper and lower on the R1s (all different skates at different times). Marsblade sent us replacement parts with expedited shipping to keep us skating.We have had the R1s since they first came out and have seen significantly more action in competition and the O1s since 2017 or 2018
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4 minutes ago, 218hockey said:I had to look those up, wasn't sure what they were. Sounds fun but we have to skate on the ice. No where to roller skate outdoors even in the summer.
Yeah if you don’t have anywhere to use the Marsblades or play roller hockey then it’s not an option.
when I lived in Alaska and rinks were mostly closed during the offseason my own kids used the slide boards and and played other sports.
my high school players spent time in the weight room and played soccer and tennis. A few would find ice or go to camps but I usually couldn’t tell the difference between those who skated and those who worked out and were active when practice’s started again in early fall. Only the players who did nothing were behind.
the power skaters the team had just collected dust and were eventually sold
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On 3/4/2023 at 5:49 PM, Sprungdownunder said:Recently I went with a medium chassis instead of the large for my 8.5 Bauer's & for outdoor off rink skating I been using 76 rear & 72mm front with the ice like insert as a result it flexes really well & it feels better then my 01"s.
If I end up playing roller again I will test that combo because we have a small rink around here & agility over top line speed works better for me.
I know the recommended wheel size is 80mm /76mm but 76mm/72mm still works because it's still 4mm difference from fron to rear, reducing the length of the chassis too if your boot size is on the border of the large & medium also allows for more leverage in the rocker, it might work for some skaters.
I’ve been considering this also. I have O1s and my sons have both the R1s and O1s. I skated on my oldest sons 8.5’s with a large R1 chassis and i felt like a medium on a 8.5 might add some maneuverability. My younger boy has mediums on a pair of size 7 so I can’t try those. It could end up being an expensive experiment if I don’t like the smaller chassis.
How have you found those to work since your original post and have you done anymore wheel size tests? -
11 minutes ago, Yardelm said:What a money shot. They all look pretty much the same to me. Wonder what the actual difference Geppetto was referring to is…
Can you tell at all or so they play the same? I’ve always wanted to try a true fisher curve which apparently the pasta pro28 is.
Maybe a little more on the toe of the PRO28 vs the Bauer and CCM. I only use the Bauer with a roller puck so that changes the feel on shots. I didn’t like the feel of the Bauer on ice compared to the CCM and PRO. The Bauer felt dead but it is a team stick.
im a long time flat heel curve user that was late to the sakic variants and only recently started using P28 curves.
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3 hours ago, Yardelm said:
edit:Could someone post a picture of the pro28 pasta/fisher curve vs a ccm/Bauer p28? I was speaking to Geppetto and he said the pro28 is a bit different than retail p28’s so I’d be curious to see how?
From left to right. Bauer, PRO, CCM, STX.
the Bauer 2s team stick is used for outdoor roller on coated concrete so the blade is worn and sits on the floor differently then the other 3.
the STX has never been used and is not taped.
the others have a strip horizontal tape on the blade.
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2 hours ago, Yardelm said:I’m a fan of my red line builds, have 3 with the Laine curve, mid kick, 70 flex. I also have most top of the line sticks and echo what people have said, they definitely are in the same category performance wise. I won’t rate them against each other because sticks are all personal preference in the end.
Ie) I actually like my CCM team pro stocks over some top of the line sticks.
Which brings me to my point, anyone have experience with the Third Line? Debating getting one just because I love that generation of CCM’s (tacks 2.0).
Also, has anyone tried the g63 build? Would love to order that too but no idea what that would play like…
thanks!
I have two third line sticks, Pro97 and Pro28 in 77 and 85 respectively. I have had them since October and have held up well.
the PRO28 similar in feel to my pro stock tacks 2.0 stick in a p28.
I like a slightly heavier stick, some of the really light sticks are too light for me. these third lines perform great and are well balanced. I can’t compare to the Redlines but I have a lot of sticks and typically look for balance and feel over price tag. these have been moved up to the top my stick rack
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3 hours ago, BenBreeg said:Going to build Russian Wedge setup with the ability to adjust the width for my son. I can build it with stuff I have around, so the investment is minimal. He is 11 and just really starting to get into things on his own in the driveway. This way if he wants to do it it is there, otherwise I am not out a lot.
These are awesome
Base hockey
in Ice Hockey Equipment
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Thanks for the update, I want to place an order but I’ve been waiting for some confirmation from others. The last order I placed in January of 2021, prior to their shutdown, took about 10 weeks to be delivered.