Sprungster
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Posts posted by Sprungster
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i kinda want to see someone take a pair of mlx skates and mount sprungs on them - would probably be the only pair in the US
I'm already working on that one.
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has anyone mounted the newer graf skates? i don't know about the older graf models (with the white plastic outsole) but the newer models have outsoles that are not flat on the bottom. their is a ridge around the perimeter of the skate that is used for mounting the holder. problem is that inline chassis' mount closer to the inside of the outsole. the unevenness of the outsole makes me wonder if an inline chassis can be mounted easily.
I don't remember what the sole was on these, besides not being the white. They'd have to be pretty vacant to have less material upfront than the band around the edge of Bauers.
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Two of the three pair of Easton freebies I just mounted for samples. The 1100s are 9.5 and the 1400s are 10s, both with A7s.
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Spinal Tapsters, sooner than expected. B)
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Old new school and new old school. These are OG street/boot 9s, which is about a 7.5 Bauer with A7s. Very hard mount with the tight elastic side straps on the tongue.
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These belong to my bud Andreas in Germany.
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There's room for your frames to move back at least 1/4", and further if the two rear holes are drilled inboard a little from the stock mount holes. They can be fixed so they skate much better.
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Got to use my One95's with the sprungs for the first time last night. Have to say I love the feel of the sprungs, my only thing is that it is going to take a while to get used to the length of the sprung chassis on that boot. As you can see from the picture above I have about a half-wheel sticking out of the front of the boot and about a quarter in the back. It wasn't a huge issue, just something I'm going to have to get used too. As far as the One95 boot, they were amazing for inline. As someone that has recently been diagnosed with having lax tendons, the stiffness of the one95 is a must for me and really helped my skating. It provided the support that I just couldn't get from my previous CCM V08'sThe wheel stick-out is backwards. Probably the 1/4" ("That's not necessary!") mentioned in the instructions. You should have less in front and more in back. You can't use the toes without levering yourself up into the air, and you are behind the rear suspension. While the mounting deal is still on, you can send them to me and I'll fix them for you. I have corrected many many many mounts during my learning curve. Most recently my own X30s which I mounted to far to the outside at first. It can be hard even with the directions if you don't have a frame set up with the front and rear wheels in it to double check everything. I've seen brand new major brand roller boots with no wheel in back and half a wheel in front, like you're supposed put a break on the back or something. It can all be fixed without hurting the boot bottoms or the frames. :)
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These are mik3's new babies.
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depending on how much you weigh,the soft for front and back might where quicker.No?If the floor is tacky I use my bronze Revisions on toe and heel with my golds inside. If the floor is less tacky or very uneven, I use the golds on the ends and the bronze inside. Having traction on the toe and heel is important to me, and the difference between the traction wheel being inside or outside seems to be enough, one way or the other.
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Just got them done last week!
Try the softies front and rear with the hards in the middle.
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For a still young old customer who was totally happy and did not want to change skates.
RIP, April '06 - July '09. His three year old 190s are way dead, but the A6s (one of the first pairs sold) are still live and nothing has ever broken. There are some juicy chunks gone from the frames, but those are just to make them look better.
And his new 195/A7 replacements which, as it turns out, he likes much better. ;)
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These are conversion, for sure. The boots now have new height, pitch and nervous system. Can't wait to talk to him after he skates in them. He's already a big A7 fan.
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These are a South Georgia buds and they showed up new with the holders already off. Jason now rules the Okefenokee with these. They were the easiest mount ever, about 20 minutes. They're 12EE's with A8's. I know they need black wheels, but I don't have any. White Grippers would way do the trick.
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i personally love the tri-di chassis thank you very much.I like the concept, I just don't like the execution. Having 3 wheel sizes is cumbersome when it comes to rotating and buying wheels. I actually put a 76mm wheel up front on my hummr's and have a tri di like effect in that way. But in my case, I have 76 80 80 80 so I have more contact patch (what I prefer). To each his own. Let's see if I fall in love with the sprungs when my A7's show up. A8's were too big for me.
Here's your skates, my wheels. :) :)
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what i did was this... after drilling the holes, i put a longer than much longer bolt thru the chassis into the hole, and then put the t-nut onto the bolt. Screw the bolt down, so that it 'locates' the t-nut, as well as drawing it into the hole. then remove the longer bolt, and then fix with the actual bolt. An extra step, but makes it easier since i have wierd hands that cannot contortionate to get way into the boot.make sure you just lightly tighten the bolts, so that you can make minor adjustments. Once confirmed, then screw everything down tight.
okay, just so im getting this right, you basically are letting the bolt do all the work (sinking the t-nut teeth into the boot) by tightening the screw?
i think this is a great alternative to copper
Cut those teeth off the t-nuts at their base. You don't want to be trying to drive those into the insole. The would stick out the bottom of some soles just by their length, and they can fracture the outsole. The sharp edges from cutting them off is plenty of grip.
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These A8 raptors were done by one of our German MSH members (he can do them for you too, but they have to get there and back). I mounted them on the 10.5 221's and did as they asked. They come with a cage.
I got inline boots to convert, cause I just couldn't face cutting off another set of ice holders. They even came with ten wheels, so I'm way ahead. A little tall, but very agile and dexterous. We could make lowboy rocker arms that would bring them down to reg goalie height. These are 10s with A8's which are actually shorter than the large Tuuk wheelbase. Quite a bit lighter too.
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Only hockey boots offer the fetishist such a wonderful array of add ons. There's even a clothing style to go with them including exotic undergarments!!! And, there are other wonderful side benefits that are so often overlooked.
Taking great care not to harm the integrity of the laces, tie the two boots together in a correct bow knot exactly 2.5 inches from the boot tops. When the pain from the surgery has subsided enough, hang the connected boots upon the recovering shoulder for a few seconds, building up to several minutes a day. This medicinal use of your fetish has been speeding the recovery of many, like yourself, since the first ice age.
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Hes in this thread daily. If not heres his email:Keith@sprunghockey.com
It's keith@sprung-inline.com
And yeah, what rink do you play at? I'm pretty much at all of them sometime.
WARNING: PERSONAL AREA.
MANY SoCalites grew up watching Sprungs being developed and and are unable to get past six or seven versions ago, when they broke all the time..... on way excellent players, however. Not a BIG NAME BRAND, either. Also, I'd say the sales ratio of Michigan to California in general is probably 5-1. They are turning up at local tournaments mostly on out-of-state teams. And a few new local Juniors players who have always been on them.
We were just asked to send enough pairs for two specific, complete European national teams. We have one player on Team USA... and the coach, Joe Noris, my partner.
I think the Kor/A8 is a perfect example of the late ice age meets global warming. Southern California (and US) roller hockey is sort of like the original exclusive paradise island and all the stars are here and nobody quite believes there's a billion excellent ice hockey/roller hockey players heading for their island.
There, I feel better!
Let me know where you are and you can totally test them.
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These are eye candy that cook into foot candy. They were an easy mount after I removed and reversed the star rivets that hold the foot bed insets in place. That way only the heads are on the sole instead of really big star rivet blossoms sticking up front and rear. And the star end of the rivets hold the insets in much more firmly. The two rivets at the tip of the toe help hold the toe cap area together. None of the rivet heads were in the way at all.
They have a tongue that's as good as the Rolling Stones, and the pitch is way good, too.
I've skated happy in the house, which is usually a very good sign. On the rink this week sometime. :) :) :)
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I guess everyone loves the S11. Well here is my new setup.
Easton S11 boot
Sprung Chassis
Rink Rat hot shots and a Labeda fuzion
swiss bearings
I've mounted a bunch of those with white, but the black frame with white rockers is so built-in looking that it appears totally natural. Part of the boot. I want some of those!!! :)
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http://img112.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00409ov2.jpg
i managed to get a picture up
thanks for the help
did you have any trouble with the holes on the bottom of the skate and fitting the frame around them (I hope that makes sense to you)? I bought the skates for this same conversion a couple of days ago and just noticed the holes and thought they could be a problem.
When you have them lined up left and right, forward and rear, check out the two front center holes. If thy are clear, do them first. When the frame is anchored it's much easier to drill holes that are almost overlaping. If the two center holes aren't clear, try to find one on each side in the front to nail. If you have two in front, you can still adjust slightly at the rear, and they can still be pounded around some before drilling the rest of the holes.
As for the paper wrap spring shim, I'll get some pictures up. Here's what it is, though.
If your front rockers are loose, remove them and take out the springs. Cut a strip of reg 24 lb computer/typing paper the width of the springs. Take the first spring and wrap the paper around under the spring, with the edge of the paper right at the edge of the lip at the top side. Mark where the lip hits the paper on the opposite side and cut it. You should now have a strip of paper that wraps from one lip, under the spring and up to the opposite lip of the spring.
Take the wrapped spring and position it between two rocker arms and push them together hard until the vertical flanges on the rocker arms break through the paper into the recesses in the spring. Put the pair back into the frame and you will have brand new tolerances that keep your front pair tight for another long period. Just like the shims on rocker arm springs in cars that keep the rockers tight enough so they don't stay open or float at high RPMs.
Also, I just received a picture of the best dye job I have ever seen on Sprungs, or anything else for that matter. I told him to post them dyed and also mounted. KILLERS!
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Very Fresh Grafs. Another family on Sprungs. Gives them something to talk about long before things get dull. :)
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I think the Vapor series is the most common NBH boot in roller hockey. That means they convert fairly easily to most frames. They're very comfortable, very stiff and very light, with a good strong outsole that tends to not sag on the outside where the roller frames don't support it much. It helps if they fit your feet, however.
My size 10 XVI's were inexpensive and don't have the better liner and tongue, but they are awesome boots, just the same, and make great roller hockey skates.
Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion
in Roller Hockey Equipment
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Sprung front mount plates are wider than metal frames, and they had plenty of material to mount level.