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cougarscaptain87

Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion

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Cheers Kovalchuk & Gosinger . I'm guessing cheap isn't the way forward when it comes to conversions . Kovalchuk , surely the size issue could apply to any online or 2nd hand purchase ? I can only base my purchase on what size appears on the advert and is shown on the photos . Gosinger , I'm surprised to hear that the one ups are that bad , whilst I wasn't expecting them to be world beaters I'd have thought that the Tuuk/Bauer quality would still be pretty decent , ah well back to the drawing board . I wonder if my old quads will take a modern inline chassis :)

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Just got these Bauer X100 LE Limited edition Ice skates for this years Inline conversion 2014. Using a Reebok green Chassis to keep the Green/Black theme. Enjoy.

L.Taiapa#16 - New Zealand

20140319_210720-1.jpg

Edited by kizzashmoney
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Nice setup.. Is that Reebok chassis a Hum'er?

Just got these Bauer X100 LE Limited edition Ice skates for this years Inline conversion 2014. Using a Reebok green Chassis to keep the Green/Black theme. Enjoy.

L.Taiapa#16 - New Zealand

20140319_210720-1.jpg

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Just got these Bauer X100 LE Limited edition Ice skates for this years Inline conversion 2014. Using a Reebok green Chassis to keep the Green/Black theme. Enjoy.

L.Taiapa#16 - New Zealand

20140319_210720-1.jpg

Best looking skate out IMHO

1236456_818121378216658_1267542770_n_zps

And here are my babies

Edited by MikeWhy

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Nothing special. Got a pair of Reebok White Ks last year and they fit well, but I just prefer a stiffer boot. I didn't have any luck selling them since their retail price has plummented to like $129. I didn't want to take a huge loss on a pair of skates that were worn less than 10 times and I didn't want them laying around, so I bought a $15 Koho chassis set on Ebay and did this:

BEFORE:

whitek2.jpg

AFTER:

image.jpg

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@leftwinger: How is the koho chassis? Ive been checking around for straight setups, and there arent many cheap options out there. How much worse can the koho be than the lebeda one? Ive seen the koho sell on ebay for about a fifth of the price.

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@louierev07- I haven't gotten a chance to use them yet, so I can't speak to their performance, but they seem to be solid. I can confidently say you can't beat them for the price. 76mm maximum wheel size, FYI.

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I never intended to get inline skates at first. I owned 2 pair of ice skates. I am pretty particular, I only use Bauer 5000 or above, and I have small feet, size 6. I was in a thrift shop and saw that they had a pair of ice skates, the only had one pair. I took a look at them and they were Bauer Supreme 5000s, size 6. Even though I already had 2 pair, I felt that I could not pass up the chance to by my brand of skate, and since they were only selling them for $7, I felt that I could not loose.

But then i had 3 pair of skates, and only one pair of feet. I eventually had the idea to turn one pair into an inline pair. I got a brand new Chassis, on clearance off Peranis for less than $20 shipped, and ended up with a $27 pair of inline skates that I would use over most high end models on the market today.

x1t1v9X.jpg

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I never intended to get inline skates at first. I owned 2 pair of ice skates. I am pretty particular, I only use Bauer 5000 or above, and I have small feet, size 6. I was in a thrift shop and saw that they had a pair of ice skates, the only had one pair. I took a look at them and they were Bauer Supreme 5000s, size 6. Even though I already had 2 pair, I felt that I could not pass up the chance to by my brand of skate, and since they were only selling them for $7, I felt that I could not loose.

But then i had 3 pair of skates, and only one pair of feet. I eventually had the idea to turn one pair into an inline pair. I got a brand new Chassis, on clearance off Peranis for less than $20 shipped, and ended up with a $27 pair of inline skates that I would use over most high end models on the market today.

x1t1v9X.jpg

Some sweet conversions going on. As for these pups, Old is Gold. Like a 1988 300e AMG, takes a keen eye to see the BEAST released to play some puck. Nice job soldier.

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Im about to mount some sprungs on my vapors. Im trying to do everything myself without goint to my LHS, so that I can do it again if I need to. I also plan on messing around with different heel lifts.

What kind of screws and stuff do you guys use to mount? Im using pretty much everything this guy uses in this video:

I think using the 6-32 screws, and 1/4' t-nuts and securing with loctite should be good - just as good as rivets hopefully.

where do I get the plastic to make a heel lift? Im trying to match the pitch of my converted vapors (with sprungs) to my ice skates (easton mako).

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There's no need for loctite from my experience.

So you never have any loosening of the screws and need to tighten? Id rather just use the loctite and not have to check to make sure its tight every so often. And ive read somewhere that copper rivets arent as good as steel because the holder has more play with them. Is this gonna be the same deal with the t-nuts?

Also, im going nuts trying to get out the front 4 rivets. What method should i try to get these out?

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Initially, the t-nuts will settle, this depends on how rigid the midsole of the skate is. So, after a weeks use retighten them then again in a month. I never had the bolts loosen after doing this. Copper rivets are more malleable then t-nuts so this shouldn’t be a problem.

As for the front four rivets, I use a drill bit larger then the diameter of the rivet to remove most of the rivets head. Until I can punch the rivet out from the outside in. I had varying success with this method. Is difficult not to damage the holders.

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Initially, the t-nuts will settle, this depends on how rigid the midsole of the skate is. So, after a weeks use retighten them then again in a month. I never had the bolts loosen after doing this. Copper rivets are more malleable then t-nuts so this shouldn’t be a problem.

As for the front four rivets, I use a drill bit larger then the diameter of the rivet to remove most of the rivets head. Until I can punch the rivet out from the outside in. I had varying success with this method. Is difficult not to damage the holders.

I tried this, but my Vapors have a cloth liner between the rivet and the sole, the the drill bit ends up grabbing the rivet, and it starts spinning. I think im just gonna try using some type of pick to pull up each rivet and then try to use a chisel and pry the rivets out of the bottom.

EDIT: Also forgot to ask about the size of the screws that you use. using 8-32 1/4" right now, but im guessing I could use bigger. This is what he used in the video, so thats why I decided to use that.

Edited by louierev07

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I typically use 6-32 T nuts and when I drill the holes I use a 13/64" drill bit (6.5/32). I found that when I drill with a 6/32" bit, the T nuts don't quite fit and it's really hard to get them down into the holes (probably due to the outer diameter of the 6-32 T nuts being slightly bigger than 6/32").

I use a variety of screw sizes depending on whether or not it's near the toe or heel of the boot. Near the toe I almost always use 6-32 x3/8" and near the heel I use 6-32x1/2". It all depends on how thick the outsole/inner liner of the boot is, etc. If the screws are too long you'll be able to tell easily b/c they will be sticking out on the other side of the T-nut and you will feel it with your foot.

Another tip that I found helpful, especially in getting the T-nuts set into their holes near the toe, is to use a really long screw, such as 6-32x1" so that you can stick it through the hole on the outside and twist it a little to grab onto the t nut then you can pull it into the hole. Otherwise you will be playing around all day trying to get the T-nutes in place.

For removing the rivets near the toe area, the best method I found is to get an awl or hole punch and hammer out the rivets from the inside (I use the same method for the other rivets near the heel as well). I have found this method works better for me versus trying to drill them out. You obviously can't do this for the rivets closest to the toe b/c the awl won't fit at that angle, but by that point, if you're working from heel to toe, you can pretty easily pry them off from the outside with a chisel, screw driver, etc. b/c the holder is practically off by that point.

Reposting my Supreme One.7's with Marsblade chassis since it seems to have been lost:

N6lGW3Z.jpg

Edited by wehojp84

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Yeah 6/32 t- nuts are the go & I use stainless steel Allen key dome head bolts, no need for washers with the dome head bolts.With the t-nuts I leave the prongs & tighten them with a inch long bolt & get the prongs to sink in, result is a very tough finish & a pro look with the stainless Allen key dome heads.

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Anyone know how many different mounting holes is too many? I ask because right now I've got a pair of vapors converted from ice to roller with a sprungs frame. I picked up a pair of marsblades and I'm gonna mount that on them. Is this gonna really start weakening the outsole?

I'm apprehensive to do any work on my really nice skates for this reason. I wanna convert them for the summer, and go back in the winter, but if that's gonna really reduce their life then I might try something else out.

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I have heard that it weakens the outsole , my experience with carbon outsoles is great I have put on one pair of tacks 4 different chassis & still going fine,that's just my experience but I weigh 175 pounds so maybe that helps.

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Posting up my skates again since the last month of posts were lost.

D. Sedin Pro Stock Total One Boot. Essentially the same as a retail boot except for the grip liner and non-factory drilled air holes on the outsole. I had my LHS take off the LS2 and mount on an aluminum Hi-Lo.

I've played ice for years but I am a total newbie when it comes to roller. So far I've only got two games under my belt with these skates. The first game I played was in an older rink (smooth concrete) and I was slipping quite a bit. I thought about getting new wheels but after skating in a newer facility I found I had no issues with grip at all.

Bni9-3qIQAAH0qE.jpg

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I've changed the laces to a bright yellow since the photo.

  • Boot: Easton S12 Black
  • Chassis: 6000 Series Aluminum HI-LO Vanguard 76/80mm
  • Wheels: LABEDA Dynasty 3X-Soft
  • Bearings: Bones Swiss Bearings

Durability sucked. The eyelets ripped really fast and then the material ripped through while tightening the skates up. Some eyelets are now useless, the biggest being the top right on the left skate. I've used them for about a year. 6'1, 170-175'ish lbs. Playing 2 times a week for the first part of that year, 2-3 during the second half. They were really stiff and had zero forward flex until I got them baked. They felt amazing after that, although the foot speed is either lacking with these skates or I'm just slower now that I'm 30.

n3lnaf.jpg

I have a pair of CCM U CL's that I thought about converting with the chassis but I haven't gotten around to that. Purchased those on clearance around the same time. I also just purchased Bauer's XR's - 25% off their clearance price. Came to $260 for those. They look better than the XR5's, but I'm not sure if I want to use those now or just convert the CCM's and keep the XR's for backup.

My biggest issue with skates these days are the top ankle area. Every skate feels big like I can wobble my ankle, although the bottom part of my ankle is tight in the skates.

Edited by tgwl

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