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cougarscaptain87

Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion

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Jumped on a deal for TF9s a few months back and put the R1s on them. Having been a Bauer guy for the last decade, I see what the True hype is about. Absolutely love these skates and how they feel. Seriously contemplating buying another pair and swapping out Tuuk holders for ice. 

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An outdoor rink near me has had steady pickup roller going on recently and now that I'm vaccinated I've been trying to drop by more often. I normally play on rough asphalt and those wheels didn't offer enough grip. Got sick of swapping all the wheels back and forth every few days so decided to pick up an extra chassis making the swap so much easier/faster! 

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Hey guys - I'm wanting to make a 2nd pair of skates as more of an experiment. I currently run some 9370 Tacks with my old Sure Grips on them and things are fine (I shimmed the heel too). I'm now wanting to build some Bauer S37s with the same frames... however the outsole of many Bauers have this recessed section running front to back (where it says "Bauer" on the outsole), and I'm concerned that I won't be able to mount the forefoot part of the chassis flat on the outsole. I can't find any pics of these with the holder missing to see what's going on underneath to know whether I should buy or keep looking.

Here's a pic of what I mean... it's that shallower strip running between the forefoot and heel mounting points. I don't know what that looks like under the holders. Anyone know?

img.aspx?pic_id=135376&pic_type=4

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On 6/15/2021 at 1:01 PM, Miller55 said:

It continues under the holders. The outsole that you can drill into is the same width all around the outsole

Ok I finished them. Took me a while but this was really more of an extra 'experimental' pair. Turns out that in the S37's that thicker portion does go around the entire perimeter of the sole as you say. So I was able to (barely) make it work. The heel was totally fine, but the forefoot presented a challenge... there was a large oval area that had no outsole plastic at all. It was more of a thin construction paper-type material, maybe for weight/cost reduction through using less materials. Either way they're good to go now. Think I found my new hobby!

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I'm in the same boat, love sprungs. The stability and feel is unmatched. My issue is that I do feel like there is a bit lacking in power compared to a fixed alloy chassis like the kryptonium.

 

I have a pair of R1s on the Alkali Revel 1 boots that Marsblade offered from the factory. I use them for outdoor roller and I really don't like them. However, I really think the issue is that I don't like the boots, and therefore it's hard to get a real idea of how the R1s perform.

I'm planning on converting another pair of TF9s, and I'm undecided if I would rather just stick with the sprungs despite the fact that they're a bit slow, or if I want to try out the R1s on a different boot. I'm a big net-front power forward type, and I love the stability of the sprungs, makes me very hard to move.

What would you say are the pros and cons of the R1s compared to Sprung?

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I'm also interested in hearing @datsvechkin's thoughts on Sprungs vs. the R1. I'll provide my general impressions as I have also used both. I've used Sprungs for well over a decade, most recently with Easton Mako M7s. I've only skated R1's twice that are on True TF9 boots - I hope to give these a better work out and play some pickup games soon, but my general impressions after briefly using both back to back were:

  • The R1 was a bit heavier and I could tell the difference when I wore the two skates back to back. 
  • The Sprungs felt a little more mobile and I had better control for turns and stops, but the R1 is still good for turns and stops and is better than a flat chassis. 
  • The R1 and Sprungs both allow for a full stride extension unlike a more traditional flat chassis 
  • The movement in the R1 was less noticeable than with Sprungs (that's also comparing new R1's to used Sprungs though)
  • The R1's had a more robust and solid feel - I think they'll hold up better long term. 

So far, I like the Sprung feel a little more, however; I still liked the R1 much better than from what I recall of using an older flat chassis or the ancient Tuuk Rocker. An alloy version of the Sprungs would be ideal, but I don't know if the planned Fizix frames will ever happen since the FB page hasn't been updated in almost a year. With that said, I think the R1's are the best current alternative to Sprungs and seem like they'll be more durable (it's hard to be sure as I've only skated twice on them and I did read about people that had some issues with the early versions of the plastic portion. Apparently, they've reformulated the plastic resin to eliminate those issues and they did take care of the people that had breakage issues). I definitely prefer the R1 to any of the non-Sprung alternatives. Keep in mind, this is only my initial impression after only two light skates with the R1. 

What I'm thinking of trying to do is go to a couple pickup sessions with both skates and switching skates part way through. Getting a feel for both back to back during game play will give me a better idea of how they compare. 

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3 hours ago, the_game said:

Did ya really need to go all coppers on those?

Honestly probably doing more harm than good. Totally not necessary imo.

That said, skates look beautiful and gl at state wars!

Edited by Miller55

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11 hours ago, Miller55 said:

Honestly probably doing more harm than good. Totally not necessary imo.

That said, skates look beautiful and gl at state wars!

few years ago i went to stop during a game and my frame cracked off the bottom of an ice book, nearly breaking my ankle (rolled it bad and couldnt skate for months due to ligament damage). 

eventually remounted the same frame to the boot and used all copper. never had a problem after that. so, from then on I always use coppers on conversions. doesnt matter what it looks like to me, I just want to feel 100% confident that what I experienced before will not happen again.

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1 hour ago, SFL said:

few years ago i went to stop during a game and my frame cracked off the bottom of an ice book, nearly breaking my ankle (rolled it bad and couldnt skate for months due to ligament damage). 

eventually remounted the same frame to the boot and used all copper. never had a problem after that. so, from then on I always use coppers on conversions. doesnt matter what it looks like to me, I just want to feel 100% confident that what I experienced before will not happen again.

I hear you 100%. Roller hockey ankle injuries are rare but awful. I have unfortunately had one myself and it was due to the frames being mounted too far in, causing me to supinate and roll my ankle out. Broke a bone, lot of ligament damage, so I hear you 100%. 

The issue is that with all coppers you still run a risk. In your case, the steel rivets came loose, but with coppers they won't come loose and rip through the outsole, but they can rip the entire outsole off of the boot, which leaves you with the same net loss. The best thing to do is definitely to throw on a couple extra coppers. I like to do the back 4 all copper, then backmost 2 on the front mount in copper and the rest steel, maybe 1 more copper on the front outside edge, but all copper puts too much strain on the outsole. Just my $.02, feel free to disagree

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On 7/28/2021 at 4:19 PM, SFL said:

Just converted these for State Wars this weekend

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Looks awesome! How did you like the performance? I'm considering doing the same thing or going with the Vapor 2XR Pro skates. Thanks!

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On 5/6/2021 at 8:43 AM, Westside said:

 

DSCF4240-vi.jpg

 

How did you strip the colored paint from the quarters? I tried acetone and it didn't come off. Did you paint over it with a paint marker or strip the paint? Tia, looking forward to getting rid of the blue and silver

Edited by Miller55
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59 minutes ago, Miller55 said:

How did you strip the colored paint from the quarters? I tried acetone and it didn't come off. Did you paint over it with a paint marker or strip the paint? Tia, looking forward to getting rid of the blue and silver

Acetone, a rag, and a LOT of elbow grease. For whatever reason the paint is on there real good and you have to scrub like hell to get it off. I forget if it was the silver or the blue that came off easier, but definitely one of the colors does. I did use black angelus paint for the smallest sections near the toe cap and tendon guard where I couldn’t get my fingers into the crevice where the two parts meet. Left the True logo silver on the outside of each boot just so it’s easier to determine which boot is which at a quick glance. 

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22 minutes ago, Westside said:

Acetone, a rag, and a LOT of elbow grease. For whatever reason the paint is on there real good and you have to scrub like hell to get it off. I forget if it was the silver or the blue that came off easier, but definitely one of the colors does. I did use black angelus paint for the smallest sections near the toe cap and tendon guard where I couldn’t get my fingers into the crevice where the two parts meet. Left the True logo silver on the outside of each boot just so it’s easier to determine which boot is which at a quick glance. 

Ah that makes sense. I tried with acetone and I was going pretty hard and got nothin, so I figured I'd ask. Maybe I'll try to Dremel with a buffer pad soaked in acetone or something to try to save time

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1 hour ago, Miller55 said:

Ah that makes sense. I tried with acetone and I was going pretty hard and got nothin, so I figured I'd ask. Maybe I'll try to Dremel with a buffer pad soaked in acetone or something to try to save time

I’ve done two pairs and it was the same with both. Just keep at it 

Edited by Westside
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1 hour ago, Westside said:

I’ve done two pairs and it was the same with both. Just keep at it 

Thanks, it's definitely worth it, yours look awesome 😎

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On 7/26/2021 at 1:18 PM, Miller55 said:

I'm in the same boat, love sprungs. The stability and feel is unmatched. My issue is that I do feel like there is a bit lacking in power compared to a fixed alloy chassis like the kryptonium.

 

I have a pair of R1s on the Alkali Revel 1 boots that Marsblade offered from the factory. I use them for outdoor roller and I really don't like them. However, I really think the issue is that I don't like the boots, and therefore it's hard to get a real idea of how the R1s perform.

I'm planning on converting another pair of TF9s, and I'm undecided if I would rather just stick with the sprungs despite the fact that they're a bit slow, or if I want to try out the R1s on a different boot. I'm a big net-front power forward type, and I love the stability of the sprungs, makes me very hard to move.

What would you say are the pros and cons of the R1s compared to Sprung?

I've played in two outdoor pickup games since my last post and have some more thoughts on Sprungs vs. the R1. For the first session I skated on a True TF9/Marsblade R1 setup for about 45 minutes and a Mako M7/Sprung setup for over an hour. The Sprungs on the M7 are in good condition and don't have much friction wear. For the second skate, I skated about 2 hours with an older OG Mako/Sprung setup where the Sprung chassis has quite a bit of friction wear and movement on the front and the boots are a little softer. 

The R1's didn't feel quite as mobile as the Sprungs and were noticeably heavier. They do grip well and still allow for full stride extension. I felt I could turn a little tighter and stopping was second nature in the Sprungs (I've used Sprungs for a decade though; so am very used to them). I also felt faster in the fresh Sprungs with better starts. 

It's also possible I preferred Sprung setup more because the toe box on the 8EE Makos are very comfortable for me, but I'm getting a little pressure behind the toes in the 7W TF9s.

So, after that night, I thought, "man, I may want to stock up on some more Sprungs as I really prefer them to the R1." I had second thoughts after the skate with the old Sprungs though.

The older, worn in Sprungs felt much slower than both the newer Sprungs and the R1, I felt less stable and also felt a bit less grip (using the same wheels on the same surface as I did with the M7 setup). The loose front rockers are likely what caused this - the arms were moving too much for the front part of the suspension to function properly.

So my feeling now is that the Sprungs are amazing when new, but you really have to maintain them. Once they get friction wear and the front loosens up, they feel slower and less responsive. I don't think the R1 performs quite as well as brand new Sprungs, but they're still good and I think they'll probably hold up better in the long run. The R1 does outperform an older Sprung chassis with friction wear.

The ultimate solution would be an alloy version of Sprungs. I know there are plans for that on the Fizix FB page, but there haven't been any updates on that page since Nov of last year. Hopefully Keith finds the funds or right partner(s) to get that produced one day, but I'm not counting on that.

So, right now, you could either buy as many Sprung chassis in your size as you can, maintain them (take them apart and clean them often), and replace them as needed or go with the R1. I think the Sprungs, when new, provide the ultimate performance, but they do require work to maintain and even with that will only last a few years of heavy playing before they start to loosen up. Parts also aren't being produced for them anymore.

With the R1 you get a chassis that offers good performance (even if it's a touch less than new Sprungs IMHO), but will likely last longer, require less maintenance, are still being made and have a healthy company behind them that will be able to offer support and parts. 

Oh, one other note - when I first started using Sprungs I used the same hardness of wheels as my old chassis. The Sprungs felt slower as the suspension adds more natural grip when working properly. When I moved to harder wheels the Sprungs felt better - they still gripped, but offered good speed with harder wheels. Make sure to use harder wheels with Sprungs than you would with a HI-LO or all 80mm setups. On Sport Court for example, if you were using 76a wheels, make sure to bump that up to 78a with Sprungs (or go from +1 to +2 on the Konixx scale). For outdoors, if you were using 83a Labeda Asphalts, go to 85a Asphalts ect. 

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Thanks for the detailed response @althoma1. I've been on sprungs for a while now and love them. I have two extra sets of A7s and a bunch of extra rocker arms. Actually, the biggest issue for me has been the hardware, which is absolute trash imo. 

I've been on R1s for about 4 months, but the boots I have them mounted too are garbage Alkali Revel 1 that are already soft. The reason I was asking your opinion is to decide if it's worth it to swap the R1s onto different boots for indoor.

From your answer I think I'm going to put the R1s on a pair of boots for outdoor pickup and practice, but stick with my sprungs for indoor. I'm on A7s, which are pretty durable. Iirc you're on A6 or A6x, but the A7s have been good to me so far.

Btw, I spoke to Keith a couple weeks ago and asked him about the Fizix frames. He said he's expecting to have his first sets of working prototypes in the next few months, before the end of 2021, I believe. Still a ways to go, obviously, but it's definitely moving forward still. I kinda just wish I were a billionaire so I could jump start this whole thing. Imo if True or CCM were to grab the Fizix frames, they would take over roller. Those puppies on a monocoque boot would be unstoppable. 

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