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I just ordered a set of Step runners for my Graf 705's. First time with Step runners and I wondering if I can just stick with the stock 10' neutral profile or do they always need to be reworked before using? My current runners were a 13' neutral done almost 15 years ago. I am tempted by all the new profile options to use something other than stock 10', but at the end of the day, its more money and I'm not sure I would really benefit.

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I just ordered a set of Step runners for my Graf 705's. First time with Step runners and I wondering if I can just stick with the stock 10' neutral profile or do they always need to be reworked before using? My current runners were a 13' neutral done almost 15 years ago. I am tempted by all the new profile options to use something other than stock 10', but at the end of the day, its more money and I'm not sure I would really benefit.

I just put new STEP xl runners on a pair of Vapors. I left the stock profile and did not shave the heel or toe. Have skated on them about 5 times and found them easy to adjust to. One strange thing is that the 3rd game I wore them, I took out the Superfeet and used the stock insole. I caught my heel 3 times when pivoting and went down, (I am an excellent skater, so my mates had a good laugh at my expense). Put the Superfeet back in and problem gone. I could seamlessly switch the insoles back and forth with the old LS2 runners. I plan to sell the runners since I've got new skates with Edge holders, but if I were planning to keep the STEP, I would shave the heel down a bit, (not a lot). I will say that the quality of steel is phenomenal and I could actually feel the difference.

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I have both STEP and LS3 runners on my x7.0's. Both profiled to 8'/14' and medium forward by No Icing.

The LS3 have a more pronounced heel and much more pronounced toe.

I really don't notice much of a difference.

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was wondering if anyone could help me, I am looking to remove my step steel from my CCM Speedblade 4.0 holder. I cannot for the life of me get the steel to come out. The original runners popped right out when I unscrewed the bolts and gave it a pull, but the Step fits so much more snug, it isn't moving at all :/ 

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2 hours ago, ironslave said:

was wondering if anyone could help me, I am looking to remove my step steel from my CCM Speedblade 4.0 holder. I cannot for the life of me get the steel to come out. The original runners popped right out when I unscrewed the bolts and gave it a pull, but the Step fits so much more snug, it isn't moving at all :/ 

Clamp the steel into a vice and then pull.

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2 hours ago, ironslave said:

was wondering if anyone could help me, I am looking to remove my step steel from my CCM Speedblade 4.0 holder. I cannot for the life of me get the steel to come out. The original runners popped right out when I unscrewed the bolts and gave it a pull, but the Step fits so much more snug, it isn't moving at all :/ 

Remove the bolts and rinse the bottom of the holder in hot water (heatgun works aswell, but be careful to not melt the plastic) , then -gloves on and pull/wiggle the runner out

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On November 25, 2015 at 3:30 PM, isk8byu said:

I just ordered a set of Step runners for my Graf 705's. First time with Step runners and I wondering if I can just stick with the stock 10' neutral profile or do they always need to be reworked before using? My current runners were a 13' neutral done almost 15 years ago. I am tempted by all the new profile options to use something other than stock 10', but at the end of the day, its more money and I'm not sure I would really benefit.

I'm running Step runners straight out of the box on my Graf 703s and there was no adjustment or issues. ran them with superfeet and now SpeedPlates. then again, I never had the stock steel profiled either 

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On 5/20/2017 at 3:00 AM, mickz said:

Clamp the steel into a vice and then pull.

(please make sure there is wood or some other sacrificial material on either side of the blade when doing it)

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Definitely a better solution

On 5/20/2017 at 3:01 AM, swede said:

Remove the bolts and rinse the bottom of the holder in hot water (heatgun works aswell, but be careful to not melt the plastic) , then -gloves on and pull/wiggle the runner out

 

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On 5/20/2017 at 3:00 AM, mickz said:

Clamp the steel into a vice and then pull.

No need to pull.  

Clamp it (wrap a towel around the steel) then slap the back of the skate forward.

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2 hours ago, JR Boucicaut said:

They're both 10' but Stem is a bit more game-ready in relation to the heels and toes.

If you skated all this time on LS3 unprofiled, Step would be an upgrade.

I thought that you should have LS3 profiled before use. Just what I had always heard because of the toe shape.

 

Maybe LS4 is closer to Step out of the box?

Edited by 218hockey

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8 hours ago, brandonthequick said:

Does anyone skate with them unprofiled or does everyone get them profiled for the most part P

There are a lot of sharpeners who will tell you that stock factory steel isn't well known for its accuracy so a profile brings it to true.

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22 hours ago, 218hockey said:

I thought that you should have LS3 profiled before use. Just what I had always heard because of the toe shape.

 

Maybe LS4 is closer to Step out of the box?

The point I was trying to make was exactly that.  If he was able to skate on LS3 unprofiled this entire time, Step should feel better because it's shaped better.

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On 6/29/2018 at 11:47 PM, brandonthequick said:

I'm going from ls3 to black step steel is the profile similar? Does anyone use step steel without profiling? 

Yes. I have Step and I did not profile them. They are, like JR said, a bit more game ready.

The LS3 I used in the past had to be profiled. I just could not make them work without it. Way too much material at the toe. LS4 is workable but not optimal. 

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