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hkfury

Marsblade roller chassis

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Is there an insert or other adjustment on the R1s so that they have the handling characteristics of a standard chassis? I think about changing my standard chassis on my Tf7 against a R1 chassis. But I want to be able to cruise around the block with my Skates and have worrys if the stability is good enough for the streets and pavements around my flat. 

Can somebody explain the practical differences of the different inserts? And how is the pitch of the chassis or inserts? 

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While I can get full stride extension with the R1 and make tighter turns than with a standard chassis, I can hardly feel the movement with the stock setup. It feels very stable to me - the O1 is the chassis that's designed to be less stable in order to challenge your muscles for ice off training (I haven't used that one). In comparison to the R1, I can definitely feel the movement of the Sprung chassis I've used for years - the movement in much more noticeable to me, with Sprungs. So, personally, I wouldn't worry about stability with the R1.

As for the inserts, I haven't used them, but some are designed for more heel movement and some are designed for more toe. I just kept the stock insert. Scroll down on this page until you get to the insert setting graphic with the blue background: https://www.marsblade.com/roller-hockey You can click through those and it'll tell you the percentage of toe vs heel movement.

Edited by althoma1
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I use the standard insert on the R1. Had the O1 and wrote a comparison between the two a while back (it might be in this thread). Standing still the O1 required you to stabilize yourself more (I had the center bolt very loose), but in actual use I found them both to be very similar. The R1 chassis doesn't move as much as the O1, but when you're skating around it was difficult to tell the difference between the two. In my comparison I literally had the R1 on one foot and the O1 on the other 

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Hello guys, I have a question regarding the holes in the chassis, do they align with the holes in a roller boot for a direct swap without drilling new holes? And in a ice boot? 

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59 minutes ago, Phil8 said:

Hello guys, I have a question regarding the holes in the chassis, do they align with the holes in a roller boot for a direct swap without drilling new holes? And in a ice boot? 

You may find a couple holes that line up, but you will have to drill new holes in your boots. Ice and roller.

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On 2/10/2022 at 10:41 AM, althoma1 said:

In comparison to the R1, I can definitely feel the movement of the Sprung chassis I've used for years - the movement in much more noticeable to me, with Sprungs.

How would you compare Sprungs to the MB O1 for someone who's been using MB O1 (w/half-loosened bolts) but hasn't yet tried Sprungs?

Edited by YesLanges

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On 3/5/2022 at 11:16 PM, YesLanges said:

How would you compare Sprungs to the MB O1 for someone who's been using MB O1 (w/half-loosened bolts) but hasn't yet tried Sprungs?

I have never used the O1, but from what I've read and seen, I'd say the O1 would likely feel the most like ice and would also provide the most challenge for off ice training. I think the Sprungs would be more stable and make playing inline easier - that's just a guess though. 

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On 3/6/2022 at 3:16 PM, YesLanges said:

How would you compare Sprungs to the MB O1 for someone who's been using MB O1 (w/half-loosened bolts) but hasn't yet tried Sprungs?

Sprungs are more comparable to the MB R1's then the O1's, they feel nothing like the O1's.

O1's for training & R1's for roller hockey, Sprungs are more fragile then the R1's & in my opinion don't offer a advantage over the R1's.

 

 

Edited by Sprungdownunder

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On 4/17/2022 at 6:56 AM, Sprungdownunder said:

Sprungs are more comparable to the MB R1's then the O1's, they feel nothing like the O1's.

O1's for training & R1's for roller hockey, Sprungs are more fragile then the R1's & in my opinion don't offer a advantage over the R1's.

 

 

I agree that the R1's are more durable than the Sprungs, but I wouldn't say that Sprungs offer no advantage. Personally, I find stopping way easier in the Sprungs and they're also a bit lighter. I do feel that the R1's are faster and you get full stride extension and can use a toe flick with both chassis (unlike a flat/Hi-Lo where you have to use a choppier, shorter stride). 

Edited by althoma1

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I tried out my Sprungs today for the first time...they felt just awful to me...they felt like skis. So I took them off after a minute and put my MB back on. I'm rusty on wheels again after only skating ice for a year; but 10x worse on the Sprungs. I'll probably try them once more; but will probably end up just listing them on eBay. 

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12 hours ago, YesLanges said:

I tried out my Sprungs today for the first time...they felt just awful to me...they felt like skis. So I took them off after a minute and put my MB back on. I'm rusty on wheels again after only skating ice for a year; but 10x worse on the Sprungs. I'll probably try them once more; but will probably end up just listing them on eBay. 

What size Sprung (A6, A7 or A8)? What size and type of wheels were you using and on what surface? They may not be for you, but there's also a chance they may feel better to you with different wheels. I know one of the first times I used them on sealed concrete, I used wheels that were too soft and it felt like I was skating in mud. After I changed to different wheels they felt way better. 

Besides wheels, the other key things with Sprungs is that you want to make sure the chassis is mounted a 1/4" more toward the rear than the front. You don't want the mount centered from front to back like you do with some other chassis. 

If you determine it's not a mounting or wheel issue then reselling them makes sense. 

Edited by althoma1
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On 4/18/2022 at 11:35 AM, althoma1 said:

Besides wheels, the other key things with Sprungs is that you want to make sure the chassis is mounted a 1/4" more toward the rear than the front. You don't want the mount centered from front to back like you do with some other chassis. 

Thanks. How sure are you about this? They mounted mine almost flush with the front and a good 1/2" from the rear. If you're sure about this, I guess I'd have to pay to have them remove and remount them and then try them again. It definitely wasn't a wheel-grip issue...just felt totally unbalanced on them.

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8 hours ago, YesLanges said:

Thanks. How sure are you about this? They mounted mine almost flush with the front and a good 1/2" from the rear. If you're sure about this, I guess I'd have to pay to have them remove and remount them and then try them again. It definitely wasn't a wheel-grip issue...just felt totally unbalanced on them.

It's in the mounting leaflet that comes with the Sprungs to have them fitted 1/4 towards the rear of centre.

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10 hours ago, YesLanges said:

Thanks. How sure are you about this? They mounted mine almost flush with the front and a good 1/2" from the rear. If you're sure about this, I guess I'd have to pay to have them remove and remount them and then try them again. It definitely wasn't a wheel-grip issue...just felt totally unbalanced on them.

I'm 100% sure. I've been using Sprungs for about 15 years now and the mounting instructions that the inventor provided were:

1) Find something that shows up on the sole and mark the center of the toe and heel on the sole. Check the boot and sole to best find the center spots.

2) Draw a line from the toe spot to the heel spot.

3) Find the center of the line on the sole between the end edges of the sole and mark it.

4) Measure 1/4" toward the heel from the center point and mark this point with a line across the sole at 90 degrees to the center line.

5) Align the frame with the center of the toe mount and heel mount on the center line, and the horizontal cross member in the center of the frame lined up with the horizontal line on the sole (# 4).

6 Drill the holes through the frame (you can drill inward a little to avoid hitting the frame with the drill, and they will mount easier because of the slight angle). Or mark the mount holes through the frame and drill with the frame removed.

7) ENJOY

I always printed out these instructions and gave them to the shop. One shop didn't follow them early on and I definitely felt the difference. If they're centered then you engage the suspension by just standing on them. If they're mounted 1/4" toward the rear then you only engage the front suspension when you stride. If they're mounted more toward the front that'd definitely explain the stability issues...that's the opposite of what you want and is even worse than a mount that is centered front to back. They'll definitely feel way better if you get them remounted toward the rear. 

After the one incorrect mounting, I not only print out the instructions, but insist they read and use them (some workers believe they've done enough inline conversions that they don't need instructions, but they're used to a flat chassis like a HI-Lo where you do want to center them. You have to emphasize that they need to be mounted 1/4" toward the rear). Actually, the last couple times I actually brought boots with a good mount in as an example and just said, mount them exactly the same. I had 8EE OG Makos with a good mount as an example and was getting a new chassis mounted on 8EE Mako M7 boots - so the boot size and shape was exactly the same. I left one of the OG Makos with Sprungs in the shop for them to reference. With that size of skate and a Sprung A6 there's only about 5mm (less than a 1/4") of space at the rear after mounting and 10mm (a little under 1/2") at the front; so, a 1/4" more toward the rear just like the inventor intended.

Here's a video of someone doing the install on their own. If you look at his edited comments in the video, he later realizes that using a center punch to punch out most of the rivets is way easier than prying them out or using a chisel. A shop of course has a rivet machine with a punch. I have removed a chassis on my own in the past and just used a rubber mallet and a robertston screw driver to punch out most of the rivets...a shop can do this more efficiently though:

 

Edited by althoma1
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12 hours ago, YesLanges said:

Thanks. How sure are you about this? They mounted mine almost flush with the front and a good 1/2" from the rear. If you're sure about this, I guess I'd have to pay to have them remove and remount them and then try them again. It definitely wasn't a wheel-grip issue...just felt totally unbalanced on them.

Mine are just the opposite. They are about flush with the heel and over 1/2" from the toe. I used the same mounting instructions that Althoma1 posted. And make sure you use the frame's middle cross-member as reference for that 1/4" measurement and not the front and back of the frame.

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well, finally bit the bullet and bought R1's after my last pair of sprungs have too much give in the arms to confidently use. cautiously excited to try lol.

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