Curve/Rocker/Lie Question

[bmundus 0]

So I have used MSH a lot for research with hockey gear and it has always got me on the right path with gear, so thank you to all the regulars.

This question I have had a hard time with so I had to finally join. Skip to the second paragraph if you do not want the back story.

I stopped playing hockey from about 2000-2007(no rink near where I moved, bad mistake). Then it was on and off until about 2012. From then on I have been playing regularly again(2-3 times a week). In 2008 I tried to move to Sweden and I left my gear with some friends thinking I would be back and that did not happen. So when I went to replace my stick I forgot what I was using last(I remember the shaft because I loved that Vapor viii)!!!

So my curve search started. The first few I do not even remember because they were so off. Then it hit me, it was a Lindros! Well, old(99' 00') p88 and new are not the same. I got a dead stock off ebay and for the two weeks it lasted I was loving it, the blade length was longer, the rocker was a bit different and the curve was sallower and neutral, then the new p88.

So I tried a p12, no rocker and blade was short so that did not work.

Then a p38, curve was ok but the rocker was not right.

Then I tried a Frontier blade I forgot what it was called but it was almost a p88 clone, lie and rocker was off.

Then a pp26, rocker is nice, lie is pretty good but the curve is just to much. So I got the p38 out and shaved the bottom of the blade at the toe(rocker) to mimic the pp26. That was almost it. So the pp26 curve is not right, too deep and I like a neutral curve. Also when I go forehand backhand(full reach) I lose the puck, I'm not sure why. With the p38 after I shaved the rocker I can go full reach forehand backhand and keep control no problem.

To review:

P88 I lose pucks close to me because the blade does not lay flat in close like the old p88 did. More on passes and going to my backhand.

P38 with a shaved rocker like a pp26 is close but I would like less of a curve and neutral but if I could fine a p38 with the blade shape of a pp26, I think it would work

PP26 rocker is good but the curve is way off and I lose pucks going to my backhand but in close the blade lays flat on the ice

Right now I'm using two piece with a wood blade but I need to move to a OPS. So I have been told because companies are cutting the wood blade. The only reason I use a two piece is every OPS I tried I can not feel the puck. So I hear Sher-Woods are better for that but any info on brands and models for a more wood like feel I would much appreciate.

I do not even know if I'm looking for the right things in my pattern choice. Maybe I should not have the rocker and get a lower lie?

I'm 6'4" and with my arms at my side my stick is a touch on the heel. I tried shortening the stick but it made everything worse, shot, stick handling, passing and receiving passes. I use my reach when stick handling, my slapshot sucks so I rarely use it, snapshot and backhand are good.

So what should I try next? Also I would prefer not to have to cut my sticks to mimic the rocker.

And the kicker, no LHS with a big stick selection near by(Seattle). Shooters is good but the selection is minimal and no more shooting gallery. If maybe you do not have an answer to my question but you know of a good shop that has a huge selection of sticks and a gallery to try some out that would also help(I will dive to Vancouver area or PDX).

Thank you in advance

[bmundus 0]

So I just got back from skating and I think if I can just get a p38 with a similar blade shape/rocker to a pp26 I will be set. I can not wait for the rocker part of the DB to be done.

Sorry about war and peace above...

[bmundus 0]

Ok So after some research I guess the Datsyuk is pretty unique. Finding a clone is hard, let alone a variation.

So new question: Similar rocker/blade shape to the pp26 but with a neutral shallow curve and a lie similar to the p38?

[chippa13 1844]

The CCM Tavares is similar to the Datsyuk.

[bmundus 0]

Thank you chippa, do you know what the rocker is like?

[hawkeyfan 36]

Wood blades are hard to find...have you looked at the easton iginla???

Remember with wood you can also torch the blade and recurve. Plus you can cut and sand on the sole...another plus. I am always heating (not torching) and have been quite successful turning an old easton zetterberg into a p88 kane.

Other curves that are similar to the p38 ( or so they say)

Bauer p14 toews... (I like the look of this one)

Warrior chara

Ccm landeskog

Of those 3...i am gonna say look at the landeskog for a different sole profile

[bmundus 0]

I would like to/should get away from wood, but have had a hard time with the feel of the OPS. If I do get a OPS and profile the blade myself, will that void the warranty? Is there a company that will allow blade profiling?

I don't mind customizing my sticks, the p38 I'm using now is, but that is just a wood/abs blade. So who cares about warranty. If I go with a OPS I would like to not void the warranty.

The P46 does look pretty promising.

I just got a picture from HockeyMOnkey on a pro stock Eller RibCor graphic and it looks almost exact to what I want. Although it puts me back to where I'm at now, a stick/blade I can buy once or twice then I need to find something new. Or I hope Eller kills it the next couple of years and he gets a pro model.

[hawkeyfan 36]

The problem you are forgetting is that eller if he does hit it big and gets a curve. It will be a marketed curve. Look back at the pro curves and there is a datsyuk curve is different than the marketed datsyuk curve.

The problem with shafts and blades are that you are reliant on what a brand is willing to offer and those options are thinning fast. I hit a tournament for my son usually once a year and this one pro shop always is blowing out old stock...hard to resist $10 graphite blades.....last year they had a cart full of pm9....wish i would have picked up a few to practice with the heat gun for only $10...was at a locker room sale over the summer and did pick up a few blades i did not like (mako m5 hall/sakic) boy are these heavy blades...my thoughts where...can i heat up and close the face of the blade....i have played blades where the puck is up in the netting above the glass.

[bmundus 0]

Yea I was hoping for a "Thats a P87, go have fun for the next ten years" answer.

The 2 piece stick with a wood blade is almost dead. One of the last companies(sher-wood) to make a good selection of blade patterns in wood, I hear this is last year of them making wood products. I hope this is wrong but I need to plan for it being right.

I'm going to see what I find in the Landeskog and Tavares.

Funny I wrote then deleted sentence about the Eller being different if it does hit market. Eller if you read this and want to send me some sticks PM me....I'll pay for shipping

[Chadd 916]

Too bad the Bauer P89 isn't regularly available at retail, that would probably work pretty well for you.

[bmundus 0]

Chadd that does look pretty good, I would prefer a neutral curve but that looks promising.

Would going to a 4-5 lie do the same thing as the profiled sole of the blade? Or is that the opposite? Is that pp26 profile what is considered a "dual lie"?

Has anyone done a sticking fitting like BASE offers(I'm not to far from Vancouver)? Is it worth it/did you like the result? Would I be better off going to a store like Hockeyshop and just trying out a ton of sticks?

Seems like everything with a rockered/profiled blade is 1/2" and bigger curve, I would love under 1/2".

Just a business idea to throw out there: Make left and right sticks with no curve, just options like, lie, rocker, blade shape, shaft size, shaft contour, blade size. Then LHS has a blade clamp system that heats and bends the blade to however the clamp is set up. A store can then effectively carrier more sticks then it is physically carrying.