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Sparx Skate Sharpener - At home sharpener

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6 hours ago, rh71el2 said:

 

I've done 2 more passes (total 4 each skate) and will test this afternoon.  But I've been thinking more logically about this.  If I was on 5/8, the hollow would be deeper than when I apply a new sharpening of 3/4. That 3/4 pass or two, if it doesn't reach down to the current hollow of 5/8, will effectively just make the 2 edges flatter & wider than it was. And that's why I was feeling more bite.

You are right until you get to your last sentence. You should be feeling less bite when the internal angle of the edges are flatter.

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5 hours ago, marka said:

Howdy,

I've tried this enough times that until someone posts high speed video or something I'm not going to believe that this is true.  I've literally never seen sharpie left over after a cycle.

I think its WAY more likely that the sparks/swarf from the grinding is sandblasting away the sharpie long before the wheel actually grinds the steel.

Mark

If the shavings are removing the sharpie that would be an issue. Not sure what markers you use but the ProSharp marker is not as easily removed. I think their marker is more of a fast drying paint pen. 

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3 hours ago, Vet88 said:

You are right until you get to your last sentence. You should be feeling less bite when the internal angle of the edges are flatter.

I do suppose that's right.  Interestingly, the 2 additional passes have made it less sharp again.  I can't quite tell a difference yet between this 3/4 and 5/8 I had been used to.  At least not after 1 [coaching] skate.

Bottom line - it takes 4 passes or more to change a hollow going shallower.  2 doesn't cut it.

Edited by rh71el2

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3 hours ago, rh71el2 said:

I do suppose that's right.  Interestingly, the 2 additional passes have made it less sharp again.  I can't quite tell a difference yet between this 3/4 and 5/8 I had been used to.  At least not after 1 [coaching] skate.

Bottom line - it takes 4 passes or more to change a hollow going shallower.  2 doesn't cut it.

You’re going from 10/16” to 12/16”, a difference of two steps. I always considered 2 passes okay for 7/16” to 8/16” and back. I guess if we knew how much metal was removed on one pass, we could calculate the precise minimum number of passes required. 

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6 hours ago, Leif said:

You’re going from 10/16” to 12/16”, a difference of two steps. I always considered 2 passes okay for 7/16” to 8/16” and back. I guess if we knew how much metal was removed on one pass, we could calculate the precise minimum number of passes required. 

We can easily figure that out by measuring the height of the runner and see how many passes it takes to cut it down say a full 1/2 inch.  Volunteers?  😄

Edited by rh71el2

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2 hours ago, rh71el2 said:

We can easily figure that out by measuring the height of the runner and see how many passes it takes to cut it down say a full 1/2 inch.  Volunteers?  😄

Just use a digital micrometer and after once pass you'll know. Multiple such by the number of passes. 

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On 9/20/2021 at 12:18 PM, bcboy20 said:

Hey Guys, 

ive owned a sparx for 3 years now and live it. Go through about 5-6 rings a season. Has anyone had their machine start to “skip” or have the belt “skip” or click on the return pass and is almost home. I emailed sparx and they said it either needs to be returned for work or needs to be cleaned thouroghly.  I vacuum and blow the machine out regularly.  
Has anyone taken their machine apart also ? I dont want to but might have to get down to the bottom of this and oil up a bearing or something. Thanks! 

Having the same issue developing lately with about the same ownership timeframe. I did not clean it much though, so that's on me. After a thorough cleaning, it seems it has gotten a lot better. Mine stuttered and stopped to the point of getting the 3 6 10 error. I found that there was a lot of really hidden dust up above the grinding ring in the area the spring connects to. Must be gunking up some sensor or something.

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4 hours ago, 215BroadStBullies610 said:

I've been long overdue but I'm finally looking to purchase a Sparx machine. Are there any "must have" accessories that one should purchase?

Obviously besides grinding wheels, I would recommend a cover.  Maybe a travel case if you're going to move it around a lot.  Maybe some rubber hones if you're going to sharpen mirror finished or DLC blades. 

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9 hours ago, 215BroadStBullies610 said:

I've been long overdue but I'm finally looking to purchase a Sparx machine. Are there any "must have" accessories that one should purchase?

The Level Tool is a must in my mind. 

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Howdy,

I think the only "Must have" is an edge checker.  I have both the Sparx as well as a cheapie ebay one.  The ebay one is fine (its easy to check these... Put it on the skate facing one way, then put it on the skate on the same side of the runner facing the other way and see if it shows the same thing).  The Sparx one is much nicer to use (mostly down to the spring loaded clamp that holds it on the runner, but also that its wider than the cheapie), if you don't mind the price.

I call this a "must have" because for me, I've found that the alignment tool gets you close, but you need an edge checker to dial it in to perfect.  I've also had one ring (out of maybe 10?) where the center of the ring apparently was off 6 or so clicks from the center of the alignment ring.  Without an edge checker you basically can never know for sure if you have even edges.  Now is the alignment tool by itself 'good enough?'  My guess is frankly yes, that if the alignment tool says its centered then the range of unevenness you'll get is pretty small and probably small enough that most people would never notice.  But most people don't want to play that game and want the edges even, period.

After that its about "what's your usage?"  If you want to be able to sharpen steel not in a skate, you'll want the blade holder.  If you have coated steel you'll want a rubber stone.  If you like non-dusty things, you'll want a cover.  etc.

You'll also want to think a bit about what grinding rings you'll want, if you're planning to do friend's skates.

I plug the thing into a reasonably good surge protector.  That's more of a "protect my device" thing vs. required by Sparx, of course.

I really like using Wissota's Speed Skate to get a little better finish polish than the Sparx does by itself.
https://wissota.com/product/speed-skate/

Mark

PS... If the edge checker says you're off, adjust the alignment.  DON'T do what lots of people recommend and turn the skate around and run the same number of passes in the other direction.  Yes, that will give you even edges, but its at the expense of making a wider hollow.  Sort of a poor man's flat bottom radius, which by itself isn't that bad a thing, but its pretty much unknowable as to what you're actually getting so being consistent with it across grinding rings will be quite difficult.

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4 hours ago, marka said:

Howdy,

I think the only "Must have" is an edge checker.  I have both the Sparx as well as a cheapie ebay one. 

Mark

PS... If the edge checker says you're off, adjust the alignment.  DON'T do what lots of people recommend and turn the skate around and run the same number of passes in the other direction.  Yes, that will give you even edges, but its at the expense of making a wider hollow.  Sort of a poor man's flat bottom radius, which by itself isn't that bad a thing, but its pretty much unknowable as to what you're actually getting so being consistent with it across grinding rings will be quite difficult.

Agree with the edge checker. I have a cheapie ebay one from Canada, looks poop, works fine. I also had a ProSharp one, I sent it back in disgust as it was out, never did get a refund. The Sparx one is the mutts, but it costs a wodge.

Don’t turn the skate round, agreed, but that doesn’t give even edges, it just flips the misalignment round. 

Love my Sparx, recently I was able to test 1/2”, and 7/16” hollows, and ended up moving to 7/16” from my regular 3/8”. My edge control has improved so much that I can use a shallower hollow. Probably go to 1/2” soon. So convenient. And perfect edges every time.

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1 minute ago, Buzz_LightBeer said:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324864161773?hash=item4ba369b7ed:g:P2AAAMXQEgpTD9AK

 

Is this the one to which you're referring? if so, this is plenty good for that application. Just make sure you keep dust off the magnet and element, sometimes it'll throw off the readings

That’s the one I have, but I paid much less for it. 

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10 hours ago, marka said:

Howdy,

I think the only "Must have" is an edge checker.  I have both the Sparx as well as a cheapie ebay one.  The ebay one is fine (its easy to check these... Put it on the skate facing one way, then put it on the skate on the same side of the runner facing the other way and see if it shows the same thing).  The Sparx one is much nicer to use (mostly down to the spring loaded clamp that holds it on the runner, but also that its wider than the cheapie), if you don't mind the price.

The older Sparx edge checkers utilized a spring loaded clamp.  Current ones have a thumb screw similar to most edge checkers. 

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18 hours ago, Leif said:

That’s the one I have, but I paid much less for it. 

Ya, I bought one of those a few years ago on ebay half that price.

As far as other accessories, I'm always using the blade holder. 

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On 1/1/2022 at 11:47 AM, bcboy20 said:

Hey, I got it to stop. What I found was when I had the machine run without the glass, it seemed like it was sticky and couldn’t pull the ring back to home along the blade.  I started to use a skate guard and pushed it and it had no problem. I ended up cleaning the whole machine inside and out, then used just a tiny bit of grease on the inside along the rail that it runs on.  Moved it. Sick and forth a bit and runs perfect again now. 

Did you end up taking the machine apart at all for cleanup? I vacuumed it clean and it briefly worked but back to stuttering on return. I am thinking there still might be gunk somwhere I can't get to, but would rather not just start taking it apart if not necessary. Will give the grease a try though!

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I don’t suppose anyone has some reliable information as to the typical life span of the original Sparx? Mine is over three years old, and running sweetly, one sharpen a week with long breaks during lockdowns! Also, is it easy to open it up to clean? I’d rather leave it be unless it is a risk free task.

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1 hour ago, Leif said:

I don’t suppose anyone has some reliable information as to the typical life span of the original Sparx? Mine is over three years old, and running sweetly, one sharpen a week with long breaks during lockdowns! Also, is it easy to open it up to clean? I’d rather leave it be unless it is a risk free task.

I can only speak anecdotally in terms of a heavy work load over an extended period of time (I use mine for maybe 4-10 passes per week).

I have a rink near me with 8 ice surfaces that has had 4 original Sparx machines for years now (originally purchased to lighten the load on manual sharpening during tournaments held there).

As well as a hockey retailer right down the road from this rink that has 4  machines running fairly constantly as well. All machines are home units, and not the commercial version.

By all accounts, the machines have been virtually problem free. The only real maintenance done to them is vacuuming the machines out, and tray/filter checks/cleaning. 

Not one machine has had major issues, and these are getting far more use than anyone in their home setting.

Like them, or hate them, I don't think anyone can really question the build quality and reliability of these machines. 

As far as opening it up to clean, if the machine is running fine, and you clean it regularly, I wouldn't bother or worry about getting inside it. The internals are fairly sealed and closed off. So to be honest, I wouldn't worry about it unless there is a need to open up the unit. 

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5 hours ago, OzziesDad said:

I have a rink near me with 8 ice surfaces

As well as a hockey retailer right down the road from this rink

 

That could only describe Blaine!

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