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ktang

Washing goalie equipment

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I wash my player equipment in the tub with Dettol, oxi-clean, and detergent. I'm planning on cleaning out the chest protector and pants that I just acquired.

Also the trapper and blocker.

I plan to dry it outside in the 30°C heat.

Anybody else do this?

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Vaughn warns against soaking goalie gear because it is heavier than player gear, and the water doesn't dry out nearly as easily. I think you'd be ok with pants and c/a's, but I wouldn't submerge your gloves in water. There are layers of foams and glues that will not dry properly, even in the sun. If you have to do your gloves, you need to find a way to force the air and heat into the glove. I use the Shock Doctor fan with the Octopus attachment in the gloves after each game.after each game.

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Vaughn warns against soaking goalie gear because it is heavier than player gear, and the water doesn't dry out nearly as easily. I think you'd be ok with pants and c/a's, but I wouldn't submerge your gloves in water. There are layers of foams and glues that will not dry properly, even in the sun. If you have to do your gloves, you need to find a way to force the air and heat into the glove. I use the Shock Doctor fan with the Octopus attachment in the gloves after each game.after each game.

OK, I was worried about that. I have a NOMA boot drier with ozone, so I will use that. Thanks!

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ive washed plenty goalie gear and its been fine with the soaking, i actually found a huge HUGE industrial front load washer and found that it washes goalie C/A's nice and clean and the heavy duty spin cycle on it actually completely takes out the water that is "logged" in the pads, it came out great and nice and light compared to the pre washing where it was logged with someones gross salty sweat

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You'll be fine in either a bath tub, pool or washing machine. I've been using a washing machine for years without any issue*. This includes gloves (great to help break-in), blockers, less the board, chest, pants, cups and all soft goods. I do this about twice a season. Plan ahead at least a few days as gloves tend to take a few days to dry entirely.

* I have had some slight colour wear on a Reebok Unicorn chest as it rubbed against the door during the cycle. Only cosmetic..

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i would never recommend a pool, i've seen people get rashes because of the leftover clorine activating upon heat and sweat contact. Its hilarious and a lesson learned but is it really worth it? no.

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^ Does your bathing suit give you a rash too? As I mentioned, I've done this countless times, without any issue (including claimed chlorine rashes) over the course of 12 years/3 sets of gear. I've done this in both traditional chlorine and salt system pools. No problem. If you don't feel comfortable with the process, don't use it. This is first hand experience. Best of luck!

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I have lower end equipment for a set of goalie gear that I use occasionally to fill in a shinny. Two or three times I have used the front load with a small bit of dish detergent added to the regular laundry soap, in cold water, and use the extra spin cycle once or twice to reduce the water left in the gear to a minimum and then let dry a number of days. The equipment has held up and I think the key is to have the time to allow the equipment to dry completely.

If I had more expensive equipment I may think twice on what I am doing to wash it. For what I have the time and effort have been rewarded with clean, odor free gear with no observed degradation of the gear.

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^ Does your bathing suit give you a rash too? As I mentioned, I've done this countless times, without any issue (including claimed chlorine rashes) over the course of 12 years/3 sets of gear. I've done this in both traditional chlorine and salt system pools. No problem. If you don't feel comfortable with the process, don't use it. This is first hand experience. Best of luck!

assuming that i would swim? no since i dont wear banana hammocks.

However, i have seen countless people who do it here in arizona and they all break out in rashes. So yes, it may work for you since your skin is fine, but its not for everyone. Keep doing it, but it doesnt mean everyone is the same.

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Baking soda and white vinegar are both good for removing stink. Add it with your detergent. I use it on all my work out gear and when I clean my gear.

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The only thing I've EVER had that was stinky were my player gloves. And only one pair ever. Usually not at all. Put them through the wash and it was gone.

Oh, and my Makos stink pretty bad.

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I used Dettol to kill the bacteria and fungi.

I don't clean my player gloves in the washer because the washer is too rough on the Clarino. I just dunk them until the water / oxiclean / Dettol / detergent clears up. So I did the same thing with the blocker and trapper, and air-dried them out.

The C/A and pants went through the washer, though.

Everything seems to have survived and got stink-free.

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I use a 50/50 mix of 91% isopropyl alcohol and water in a big garden spray bottle. I spray my gloves down every other game, and the rest of my stuff like once a month. Player gear goes into a Rocket Dryer after every game, goalie gear gets hung up and the gloves go onto a rig I built from a garage storage system and a Shock Doctor fan with an octopus attachment. No stink, no crustiness, and the gear has seemed to last much, much longer without breaking down.

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My trapper was still transferring a smell to my hands, so I decided to disassemble it and clean all the layers to get rid of spores, dead bacteria, skin cells, etc.

Removing the plastic and felt pieces on the thumb side after unlacing:

IMG_20150720_190442167_zpsvtjv8ixu.jpg

Both plastic and felt pieces removed. You can see the collection of brown detritus on the white felt and on the leather:

IMG_20150720_193337730_zpsudlw1m9x.jpg

The empty trapper, ready to be scrubbed inside and out with Murphy's Oil Soap to protect the leather:

IMG_20150720_190803967_zpsnhvo59xh.jpg

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After drying it in the sun yesterday, I ran the 4 hoses from the ozone boot drying machine into the various compartments for a final disinfecting.

I'm going to get some nylon line to replace the frayed portions, and I still have some extra leather for some small-area repairs.

The foams on the cuff delaminated and the glue joint in the angle had failed, so hopefully some PL400 polyurethane glue will fix that.

I never knew that trappers had plastic in the palm and thumb areas!

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