Making Bauer supreme NXG one piece into a two piece

[noupf 42]

Hey guys, I know this has been discussed before and I read a few threads on the topic, but I just need to know if anybody can specificly tell me what blade will work.

I have a supreme NXG that broke at the toe of the blade. The entire shaft is in great shape. I know this shaft tapers down towards the blade area, but I was thinking I can cut the shaft right about where the taper stops and get a replacement mx3 or left over nxg blade. I've seen blades sold as tapered and standard. I don't really know what the difference is besides the neck of the blade on one looks longer than the other ( standard looks to be the longer neck of the two ). Based on that, it looks like the standard would be the choice as the neck of the blade looks longer and will help compensate the 3-4 inches in will chop off at the end of the shaft. I do put a butt insert in my sticks anyway, so if I just make it a few inches longer I'm hoping to make this a good back up stick.

I know some guys flip the stick and put the blade in the butt end, but I don't want to have a funky kick point and all that.

Any tips or advise would be greatly appreciated.

[GoalForFun 169]

I've eyeballed all my OPS-tapered 2 piece cuts and I've never had any problems. The most accurate way to do this is take the tapered blade and find where the blade part (no the hosel) matches the width of the shaft exactly and then cut there. The shaft might not be big enough at that point but from there it's an easy job to grind down or sand down the excess shaft until you get the perfect fit. If you find you've cut too far and the opening is too wide, put a strip of cloth tape on the hosel of the blade to artificially make it thicker.

Then to restore the stick to normal height, put in a wooden extension.

[noupf 42]

I wish I could see what the tapered and standard blades looked like. I don't quite understand the differences and why i would use one vs the other in my cut down ops.

If I understand it correctly, aren't I cutting the shaft where the taper begins ( which will result in a non tapered shaft when I am done cutting?)

And by a tapered shaft, it is referring to how the shaft narrows as it approaches the blade correct?

[GoalForFun 169]

I actually have a picture of this from many years ago.

It's probably not super helpful.

But you cut somewhere within the taper. Closer to the blade.

[vinprun71 61]

Buy the new blade and line it up with the old one. Mark where you know the new blade will attach to the shaft and cut. Viola!

[noupf 42]

Buy the new blade and line it up with the old one. Mark where you know the new blade will attach to the shaft and cut. Viola!

ok, so here is a pic of what i am working with. I was wrong, this stick had the blade break off near the end of the hossel. I ended up cutting the stick when it happened just above the break. At the time i knew nothing of making a OPS into a TPS,

Looking at the difference between at tapered replacement blade and a standard, does it look like i may have the shaft cut too high? I think with the cut i made, its why i was thinking of going with a standard blade since the hossel on the standard blade is longer.

[vinprun71 61]

ok, so here is a pic of what i am working with. I was wrong, this stick had the blade break off near the end of the hossel. I ended up cutting the stick when it happened just above the break. At the time i knew nothing of making a OPS into a TPS,

Looking at the difference between at tapered replacement blade and a standard, does it look like i may have the shaft cut too high? I think with the cut i made, its why i was thinking of going with a standard blade since the hossel on the standard blade is longer.

Seems like the TotalOne blade is taller. Given the short cut, you may want to go with the safer bet here and purchase that. The tapered blade would still fit more than likely, but it seems a bit shorter. You would have a shorter stick as a result. I'd stick with the standard blade.

[noupf 42]

Seems like the TotalOne blade is taller. Given the short cut, you may want to go with the safer bet here and purchase that. The tapered blade would still fit more than likely, but it seems a bit shorter. You would have a shorter stick as a result. I'd stick with the standard blade.

Yea, i dont mind shortening the stick, i use a 2" extension anyway......so worst case I'd add an inch or two to get the same length. The totalone blade pictured is to show what a standard taper looks like and the apx shows the shorter tapered blade. I guess i'm gonna just have to make a choice and go with it.

If i grab a standard blade, i'll need to cut the shaft even higher i guess since the standard insert is thicker and the shaft in the nxg is still within the tapered range as you can see in the pics.

If I grab a tapered blade, i have to hope the cut i made isnt too high. I guess I can just buy both and see and return the other.

Is there any benefit to using the tapered blades compared to the standard?

[vinprun71 61]

Yea, i dont mind shortening the stick, i use a 2" extension anyway......so worst case I'd add an inch or two to get the same length. The totalone blade pictured is to show what a standard taper looks like and the apx shows the shorter tapered blade. I guess i'm gonna just have to make a choice and go with it.

If i grab a standard blade, i'll need to cut the shaft even higher i guess since the standard insert is thicker and the shaft in the nxg is still within the tapered range as you can see in the pics.

If I grab a tapered blade, i have to hope the cut i made isnt too high. I guess I can just buy both and see and return the other.

Is there any benefit to using the tapered blades compared to the standard?

Tapered blades are traditionally ideal in the sense that you can load the bottom/flex the bottom of the stick better. Tapered blades are typically found to be more aggressive in low kick sticks. The theory is that the tapered blade assists with a quicker release of the puck due to the loading/flexing. With a TotalOne, you don't really need a tapered blade such as the APX2 for example. Supreme sticks are mid-high kick sticks anyway. The choice is yours though.

[Vet88 673]

Not sure if you understand this yet, I don't see it anywhere else in the thread. A standard blade has a tenon (the bit that goes into the shaft) that is straight in shape ie it has no taper to it. Think of the tenon on the end of your extensions, this is the same shape as on a standard blade. On a tapered blade the tenon is thinner for it to fit into a tapered shaft. You can't fit a standard blade into a tapered shaft or a tapered blade into a straight shaft (the latter you can do at a pinch but it generally gives really poor results and you have to fill the sides between the shaft walls and the blade tenon with something like tape or epoxy so everything sits firm in the shaft)

You need to cut quite a way up to make a standard blade fit into a tapered shaft, if you add an extension then this is ok but the extension will be quite long. With a standard blade you can always flip the shaft and put it into the butt end but it changes the flex profile and feeling of the stick. Cutting a long way up a tapered shaft to fit a standard blade will also change the flex profile.

NXG shafts take tapered blades, I've fitted a few of them with se16 and other tapered blades. If you have cut to far up the shaft then you are basically stuffed for a tapered blade unless you want to experiment with adding things like stick tape around the tenon (ideally soaked in epoxy so it sets hard) to make the tenon bigger so it fits firmly into the shaft.

[noupf 42]

Not sure if you understand this yet, I don't see it anywhere else in the thread. A standard blade has a tenon (the bit that goes into the shaft) that is straight in shape ie it has no taper to it. Think of the tenon on the end of your extensions, this is the same shape as on a standard blade. On a tapered blade the tenon is thinner for it to fit into a tapered shaft. You can't fit a standard blade into a tapered shaft or a tapered blade into a straight shaft (the latter you can do at a pinch but it generally gives really poor results and you have to fill the sides between the shaft walls and the blade tenon with something like tape or epoxy so everything sits firm in the shaft)

You need to cut quite a way up to make a standard blade fit into a tapered shaft, if you add an extension then this is ok but the extension will be quite long. With a standard blade you can always flip the shaft and put it into the butt end but it changes the flex profile and feeling of the stick. Cutting a long way up a tapered shaft to fit a standard blade will also change the flex profile.

NXG shafts take tapered blades, I've fitted a few of them with se16 and other tapered blades. If you have cut to far up the shaft then you are basically stuffed for a tapered blade unless you want to experiment with adding things like stick tape around the tenon (ideally soaked in epoxy so it sets hard) to make the tenon bigger so it fits firmly into the shaft.

i think i get it now. If I leave the shaft as pictured, i should be good with sticking any tapered blade into the end, correct? I actually have a digital micro-meter and the opening right now is only .451".......and the tapered blades say the tenon is .520", so it looks like the shaft actually needs to be trimmed more to accept the tapered blade.

I get what you are saying about the standrard blade/shaft now as well. I would have to hack off another couple inches to get to the point where the standard blade would fit into the the shaft.

Like i said, i'm ok with adding a longer butt end anyway. I just want to make this into servicable pickup game stick or a back up on the bench during my mens leauge games.

Based on everything, i think a taperd replacement blade is the way to go since i seem to have room to trim on the shaft, correct?

[Vet88 673]

Yes, a tapered blade is what you want based on a best fit for the NXG.

When trimming the shaft, cut a little at a time and keep checking if the blade will fit. Ideally you want to be almost hammering the blade in, I try to get it to the point where I tip the shaft up and hammer the butt end onto the floor to get the blade to go in. I have a broken tapered blade that I use as a guide, I have removed all the glue from the tenon and when this "just" fits I know everything is ready to go. I suggest you do something similar, remove around 5mm of glue from the end of the tenon, keep trimming the shaft until this end just starts to go into the shaft. Now you are ready to heat the glue and the shaft to get everything to fit. I use a heat gun to heat up the shaft (as well as the tenon) because the walls of the shaft go slightly soft and expand easier for the blade to go in. Heat the glue till it starts to go runny, make sure you keep the heat gun moving over everything, don't ever leave it in just one spot. About 2 minutes is how long it takes to heat blade and shaft.

I can't remember if the inside walls of the NXG shaft are square or rounded. If they are rounded you may need to lightly file down the corners of the tenon of the blade so it fits in easily. Filing down the edges of the tenon is a heck of a lot easier than trying to square up the inside corners of the shaft.

After fitting the blade you can either wipe of the excess glue immediately or leave it to set then break it off.

[noupf 42]

Yes, a tapered blade is what you want based on a best fit for the NXG.

When trimming the shaft, cut a little at a time and keep checking if the blade will fit. Ideally you want to be almost hammering the blade in, I try to get it to the point where I tip the shaft up and hammer the butt end onto the floor to get the blade to go in. I have a broken tapered blade that I use as a guide, I have removed all the glue from the tenon and when this "just" fits I know everything is ready to go. I suggest you do something similar, remove around 5mm of glue from the end of the tenon, keep trimming the shaft until this end just starts to go into the shaft. Now you are ready to heat the glue and the shaft to get everything to fit. I use a heat gun to heat up the shaft (as well as the tenon) because the walls of the shaft go slightly soft and expand easier for the blade to go in. Heat the glue till it starts to go runny, make sure you keep the heat gun moving over everything, don't ever leave it in just one spot. About 2 minutes is how long it takes to heat blade and shaft.

I can't remember if the inside walls of the NXG shaft are square or rounded. If they are rounded you may need to lightly file down the corners of the tenon of the blade so it fits in easily. Filing down the edges of the tenon is a heck of a lot easier than trying to square up the inside corners of the shaft.

After fitting the blade you can either wipe of the excess glue immediately or leave it to set then break it off.

so, since i over think things, if you stick a square peg ( the tenon of a replacement blade ) into an increasing width hole ( a tapered shaft ), wojuldnt you get a result like the pic below?

It seems the shaft would hug two sides of the tenon, but the other two sides would have the tapered shaft move off the tenon as you get farther up the shaft. Woulnd this resul in a wiggle on the two sides?

[Vet88 673]

The glue on the tenon fills the slight gap on the sides. It's not a perfect system but it works. This is why I like to hammer home a tapered blade, the shaft is heated so it expands slightly as the tenon goes in and with a really tight fit the gap at the top is then negligible. Your drawing is an example of why cutting to much off a tapered shaft for a tapered blade fails, the blade wiggles when it is fitted into the shaft. This is why I said you should cut a little at a time off the shaft and measuring everything as you go definitely helps.

[noupf 42]

ok, so dont laugh.....as i have not used / purchased / replaced a replacment blade in over a decade. After taking in everything i could ( thanks to those who helped ) about salvaging a broken shaft, i grabbed an apx2 blade on clearance and will attempt to put it into my broken nxg shaft pictured a few posts above. I have plenty of room left to cut on the shaft, so it will fit once i cut it down to the point where i can shove it in there.

My question is this..... whats the black stuff on the end of the blades neck? It looks like a thick duct tape......but its not. Is this the glue that comes on the blade? If so, it looks nothing like the glue i have seen in the past.

[steelnation248 101]

It's Bauer's glue. It's different from the hot glue style that other companies use. Once you melt it, it'll be a little more tarry (if that makes sense. I couldn't think of another word) than the other style.

[hawkeyfan 36]

Its their glue. Some companies use different glues that break down differently to Heat temperatures. Me myself I like the Easton Stick Glue. I always over do the glue. I have learned too often that not enough glue leads to a blade that has a rattle because the bond has broken.

So I use plenty of glue and before inserting the blade I will take the heated glue from the blade and smear some of it inside the shaft walls. This way there is some glue at the top of the blade tenon and the shaft wall. This little extra seems to help avoid having any rattle issues later.

I also take a strip of masking tape and wrap the shaft at the end and the blade tenon. then after I insert the blade, I wipe off the excess glue for reuse with a wood plug. there is still a glazing of glue residue...Once I peel the tape off...there is no residue that I need to worry about removing. It has come off with the tape and looks much better than letting it ooze out and have to deal with later. This is especially good if the blade has the black glue (You will want to peel the tape while the glue is still soft).