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MyBoxersSayJoe

Step Blacksteel vs. BlackEdge runners

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I've been trying the search function, but haven't been able to find an answer.  Has anyone used both Step Blacksteel (http://stepskates.com/blades/black-steel/) and the BlackEdge (http://blackedgerunner.com/en/) runners?  Would you recommend one over the other?  And are these steels all hype/gimmick, or are they actually an improvement over regular Bauer steel?  Cost doesn't matter, I'd just like the best product I can get.

I have Bauer APX's with LS2 runners and Fusion steel.  My first Fusion steel held an edge just fine, but after years of use, bubbled and warped.  The current Fusion runners I'm using are HORRIBLE for holding an edge.  Any sort of contact with anything other than ice during play and my edge is gone.  I had to play a playoff game last night with no outside edge on my right skate for two periods after being tripped.

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I've used both and spoken to a few good sharpeners about which they consider better. For an LS2 holder, overall I'd say the blacksteel is marginally better but you may not like the increased height therefore the blackedge would be your choice. Regardless of which you choose, either one is a huge step up from the fusion steel which is well known for not holding a edge. The downside is the slight increase in weight.

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Step is a higher grade steel, so besides the coating it should hold an edge better.

 

I just got a set of step runners (normal uncoated) and I don't really notice the increased height very much except when leaning, it feels like you can go further without bottoming out. It's not a ton, not like you're on stilts or anything. You're much more likely to notice a different profile. If I remember correctly step is 10' radius with a neutral profile by default. Afaik for Bauer ls2 and below is 9' and ls3 and ls4 are 10' radius.

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I'm not a huge fan of steel that can't be side-honed.  Both BlackEdge and Step Blacksteel indicate that they shouldn't be side-honed due to the coating.  I know that the idea is that the carbon coating will hold an edge better, but, as a guy who sharpens many pairs of skates a week,  I think side-honing is an integral part of a high quality skate sharpening.  In my experience, the sharpening process leaves a burr on the outer edge of the skate, and we side-hone in order to remove that burr to make sure you're skating on the edge we created, rather than the burr.  I know plenty of people who use the carbon coated steel though, and they seem to like it for the most part, but I know that when I don't side-hone my skates well enough, I can definitely tell.  I'm a big fan of the original Step Steel though! 

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Just now, malcb33 said:

You can hone coated steel with leather to de-burr.

That's true, I forgot to mention that!  My only concern is taking them to be sharpened and skate techs either honing it with a stone or not having leather on hand.  We have leathers at my shop, but I know other shops in the area don't.

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I've never found it an issue as long as you mention it to them. I have leather at home I use and just ask the shop to not hone them at all. I find the leather really helps.

 

Back to the original question, Blacksteel is way better than Blackedge. Harder steel and noticeably more coefficient.  

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2 minutes ago, malcb33 said:

I've never found it an issue as long as you mention it to them. I have leather at home I use and just ask the shop to not hone them at all. I find the leather really helps.

 

Back to the original question, Blacksteel is way better than Blackedge. Harder steel and noticeably more coefficient.  

I definitely agree.  Step Steel all the way.

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You can hone coated and polished steel. I do it all the time. You have to do it carefully on an angle with a diamond stone. Works like a charm. Leather to finish.

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3 hours ago, Jason said:

You can hone coated and polished steel. I do it all the time. You have to do it carefully on an angle with a diamond stone. Works like a charm. Leather to finish.

 

I've also used a ceramic stone with great success.  Most speed skating shops carry them.

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23 hours ago, Yerksy said:

I'm not a huge fan of steel that can't be side-honed.  Both BlackEdge and Step Blacksteel indicate that they shouldn't be side-honed due to the coating.  I know that the idea is that the carbon coating will hold an edge better, but, as a guy who sharpens many pairs of skates a week,  I think side-honing is an integral part of a high quality skate sharpening.  In my experience, the sharpening process leaves a burr on the outer edge of the skate, and we side-hone in order to remove that burr to make sure you're skating on the edge we created, rather than the burr.  I know plenty of people who use the carbon coated steel though, and they seem to like it for the most part, but I know that when I don't side-hone my skates well enough, I can definitely tell.  I'm a big fan of the original Step Steel though! 

You guys all gave me some good info on honing the coated/polished steel and I got to thinking about it last night, so I talked to some other skate techs, and one of them also recommended using a piece of wood to side hone as well, such as a chopped down end plug.

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I was told that ceramic stones work well with steel that's coated or polished as well, use it on my polished ccm steel and doesn't wear or scratch 

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Unlike regular steel that curls out during the sharpening process, the black steels mentioned do not.  After a sharpening, they are perfectly smooth. They do not need honing, nor does honing do anything to benefit, it's a waste of time unless it's done to smooth out a nick.  Some feel they need to do it, but it's unnecessary.

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1 hour ago, jimmy said:

Unlike regular steel that curls out during the sharpening process, the black steels mentioned do not.  After a sharpening, they are perfectly smooth. They do not need honing, nor does honing do anything to benefit, it's a waste of time unless it's done to smooth out a nick.  Some feel they need to do it, but it's unnecessary.

I would disagree.  I've definitely felt burrs on Step Blacksteel and BlackEdge steel.

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The metal does not curl up from a proper sharpening.   A nick might curl out the edge but not a sharpening, simply does not create burrs norany slivers of metal. Heck, even when I'm shaving a toe for a customer and do 100 passes on the toe, the edge does not curl. Smooth as a baby's butt. But hey, if you want to hone, feel free to do so.

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Jimmy, I would agree that the Black Edge steel pretty much doesn't burr up at all, but Step Black Steel definitely does. I have used them for years and sharpen my own skates. They develop less burrs than regular steel, but I wouldn't go without de-burring. 

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My Son just got a pair of CCM Super tack customs with Hyper blade 4.0 Polish.  I own a Blackstone X02.  Where do I get the leather hone mentioned in this post?  is it used the same way as a regular stone?

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On 8/6/2016 at 6:23 AM, mojo122 said:

Thank god for this link. I just got new skates that have the CCM Hyperglide in them and the guy in the shop took a regular stone to them after first sharpen. It's all scuffed up now. I'm going to buy one of these to hone myself after a sharpening. (if it's needed)

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21 hours ago, Bakum said:

Thank god for this link. I just got new skates that have the CCM Hyperglide in them and the guy in the shop took a regular stone to them after first sharpen. It's all scuffed up now. I'm going to buy one of these to hone myself after a sharpening. (if it's needed)

The CCM runners are not diamond carbon coated, what's on them is more like a paint.  Unlike the Blackedge and Blacksteel which don't need honing, the CCM steel will. It's edges are not hard and will curl out from a sharpening.  The ice is going to wear off the paint anyway so you might as well hone.

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