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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

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Craig

Home sharpener

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1 hour ago, Craig said:

eAOplEO.jpgqyK5JMp.jpgGr8x0nL.jpgsVIfvTG.jpg0i9hoYS.jpgqXO3lPp.jpg84eiAGZ.jpgok got the base leveled out . Black plate looks square but when I lock the skate in the cam lock seems really bend back and I've barley got any pressure on it before I lock it

Remove the skate and tighten the two nuts they and snug the Allen head bolts on the side that faces you . The thumb screw on top of the skate clamp; it doesn't have to touch the cam on the lock lever .  For example many skate holders don't  have a thumb screw. There is a bolt with a lock nut . The top clamp with the cam lever is supposed to be ale to slide out when released not having to turn the top thumb screw:  with the cam lock clamp at its lowest position set your thumb screw around 5/32" away  then when you rotate the lever up you only need to pull that lever with a pound or two of pressure  , that's all you need. 

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2 minutes ago, Playmakersedge said:

Remove the skate and tighten the two nuts they and snug the Allen head bolts on the side that faces you . 

You can see in the picture of the combination square the nut to its left . Now look too the true left in the picture you can see a gap between the black plate and the red aluminum toward the bottom 

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4 minutes ago, Craig said:

Ok snugged the bolts up and closed the gap cam levels to adjust the skates up and down are super tight.

 Looking at the line in the center of the wheel it looks like you need to adjust your skate height up. Re face that wheel and sharpen those skates 

Remove the skate and tighten the two nuts they and snug the Allen head bolts on the side that faces you . 

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35 minutes ago, Playmakersedge said:

 Looking at the line in the center of the wheel it looks like you need to adjust your skate height up. Re face that wheel and sharpen those skates 

Remove the skate and tighten the two nuts they and snug the Allen head bolts on the side that faces you . 

dpgbnkNh.jpghard to hold skate and take a pic but edges are a lot better a little bit off but nothing like they were

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10 hours ago, Playmakersedge said:

Skate has to be raised on the wheel just a little and you are on the money . Raise that skate on each end a mark or two if the adjusters are marked  then show me the witness marks 

Ok might be late tonight or tomorrow daughter has Christmas play.

when I sharpened that skate I measured from the table to center of wheel then from table to center of blade figured that should get me close.

One more ? I ordered a pro square 

when I get that I'm just going to use that instead of witness marks correct?

once again thanks for the help!

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What is the correct witness marks for blademaster? The top one is from blademaster with a tiny mark just in the center of the blade and the bottom is how I make the mark.gy7o2co.jpgtqv9qLl.jpg

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1 hour ago, Craig said:

What is the correct witness marks for blademaster? The top one is from blademaster with a tiny mark just in the center of the blade and the bottom is how I make the mark.gy7o2co.jpgtqv9qLl.jpg

One in the center with long arrow.   

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1 minute ago, Playmakersedge said:

The top is off a cross ground blade 

The perfect one in the bottom view is what I'm am trying to tutor you to achieve . You are not far from this now . You just have to raise the skate a touch each end .   Grab some different color paint pens that will show on the adjusters  so you can make cheater marks on the adjusters for different runner manufacturers.  Staple a index card to the wall in back of your sharpener .  Then  write CCM   red, Bauer  blue   ,etc  . Stops you from fussing around every time.     Enjoy the Christmas play  talk to you later 

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7 hours ago, Craig said:

Ok might be late tonight or tomorrow daughter has Christmas play.

when I sharpened that skate I measured from the table to center of wheel then from table to center of blade figured that should get me close.

One more ? I ordered a pro square 

when I get that I'm just going to use that instead of witness marks correct?

once again thanks for the help!

Pro square is a blade checker.  That checks the blade edge height before and after sharpening.     It's going to do what the quarter did in your pic . Why I kept saying all you need is a quarter. 

You still need to use witness marks !!!!    to center The skate to the wheel !!!!! Realise: if your children and you all are using the same kind of runner, you don't have to do a thing you are already set up for that once you raise the skate height a touch. You are close to on the money now .

Again that quarter told you everything you need . The quarter utilises two plains for your eye to see : the horizontal of the edges to the vertical of the side of the blade...... The edge checker takes the virticle surface and transposes it to a horizontal plain (essentially a square with a magnet ) . Then there is another piece that is set across the edges in there horizontal plain and transposes that to a longer horizontal plain .    The quarter and the blade checker are doing the same thing; using two plains one a constant the side of the blade and the second the variable being checked in reference to the constant  .

The edge checker dose it so the results are magnified over larger surfaces so it's really really really easy to see 

The quarter : is just using smaller plains. The edge checker came from this.  

Guess what I'm trying to say is edge checkers are a waste of money

Pro square:  is to check the edges before and after sharpening..... It will tell you if the edges are off.

It will not tell you how much to raise or lower the blade to center it to the wheel.     Witnesse marks are necessary!!!!!     You are  Compiling too much information from too much input.  Easy to get confused. Follow one recipe  . 

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2 hours ago, Playmakersedge said:

The top is off a cross ground blade 

Ok so I'm doing the right witnesses marks just making sure 

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1 hour ago, Playmakersedge said:

Pro square is a blade checker.  That checks the blade edge height before and after sharpening.     It's going to do what the quarter did in your pic . Why I kept saying all you need is a quarter. 

You still need to use witness marks !!!!    to center The skate to the wheel !!!!! Realise: if your children and you all are using the same kind of runner, you don't have to do a thing you are already set up for that once you raise the skate height a touch. You are close to on the money now .

Again that quarter told you everything you need . The quarter utilises two plains for your eye to see : the horizontal of the edges to the vertical of the side of the blade...... The edge checker takes the virticle surface and transposes it to a horizontal plain (essentially a square with a magnet ) . Then there is another piece that is set across the edges in there horizontal plain and transposes that to a longer horizontal plain .    The quarter and the blade checker are doing the same thing; using two plains one a constant the side of the blade and the second the variable being checked in reference to the constant  .

The edge checker dose it so the results are magnified over larger surfaces so it's really really really easy to see 

The quarter : is just using smaller plains. The edge checker came from this.  

Guess what I'm trying to say is edge checkers are a waste of money

Pro square:  is to check the edges before and after sharpening..... It will tell you if the edges are off.

It will not tell you how much to raise or lower the blade to center it to the wheel.     Witnesse marks are necessary!!!!!     You are  Compiling too much information from too much input.  Easy to get confused. Follow one recipe  . 

Ok I hear ya lol.

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2 hours ago, Craig said:

sVSIIqCh.jpgok measured and measured and got the edges squared away a bit then started over and this is what I got 

Nice that looks pretty dam good.  Looks like if you want to be really dialed in you can correction (not lower the blade) raise the blade  .  (I was reversing because it was a pic) so raise the blade on the wheel a little, I mean a hair  . Make a pencil mark at your spot now So if you go to far you have a tangible starting point.

Level is throughing off my eye 

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Will do 

I think the  main problem I'm having is the skates we're out of level and I was making my witness marks on that causing the problem to get worse. I just need to make sure I'm pretty square from the start I think.

thanks for all your help hopefully I can figure it out from here or other threads 

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3 minutes ago, Craig said:

Will do 

I think the  main problem I'm having is the skates we're out of level and I was making my witness marks on that causing the problem to get worse. I just need to make sure I'm pretty square from the start I think.

thanks for all your help hopefully I can figure it out from here or other threads 

The witness marks that you did the ones that look the best were only a little bit of adjustment from being perfect.... right now you are learning how much movement on the leavrs is a hair ,little, or tons  . You are getting it .   

Heads up : I wouldn't check the edge height with the skate in the holder.  If that holder falls to the floor it will be a $400 paper weight.  

You are welcome.  It's not a big deal.  I wish I could've showed you our machine before you pulled the trigger on the blade master  . I'm near Albany N.Y. if you are close you can come here with your machine and I will take you threw the entire set up. My writing is labored to say the least.  I mean this would have taken a half-hour drinking coffee to do in prson 

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Witness marks, perfect is a rectangle. The drastic marks that are off are trapezoid shape.  Your best marks are close to a rectangle and off just a little as far as adjustment leavers go.     

Grab a piece of paper and a pencil and grab a glass and trace it . Visualise the left face of that circle is the front  of the wheel cutting the skate.  Now take the eraser end and move it center, bottom ,top . This gives you a visual of how the witness marks end up looking the way they do .  You will see how the wide part of the trapezoid is the part touching the wheel first . Wide part of the trapezoid is hitting the wheel first  . Wide part is to the top means the holder needs to be adjusted to raise the skate . Opposite if the wide part is on the bottom.   The holder has to be adjusted in the direction of the wide part of the trapezoid. 

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1 hour ago, Playmakersedge said:

The witness marks that you did the ones that look the best were only a little bit of adjustment from being perfect.... right now you are learning how much movement on the leavrs is a hair ,little, or tons  . You are getting it .   

Heads up : I wouldn't check the edge height with the skate in the holder.  If that holder falls to the floor it will be a $400 paper weight.  

You are welcome.  It's not a big deal.  I wish I could've showed you our machine before you pulled the trigger on the blade master  . I'm near Albany N.Y. if you are close you can come here with your machine and I will take you threw the entire set up. My writing is labored to say the least.  I mean this would have taken a half-hour drinking coffee to do in prson 

I think you did a pretty good job explaining things through text. Sharpened my skates and an old pair of the kids skates and they turned out fine. I'm from Michigan so a little bit of a drive but I agree probably would've been a lot easier in person.

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