Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[zinNergy 0]

I have a ton of broken SL's (probably 10) and I always gradually cut my way up the taper starting at what I thought was the fuse point. I usually ended up in the hollow section near the lower 'E'. Unfortunatley the shaft always ends up about half an inch too short for me with the provided carbon fiber extention, So the next time I attempted to chisel out the middle just above the fuse point. This actually proves to be quite achieveable if you do it with percision, you just must follow the fine gaps between the blade tenon and the hosel with you chisel where the epoxy bonds the two together. It takes a bit of time, but has good results and a longer shaft. I also drill as much as I can out of the middle though first to break down the tenon walls and tear up the connection for easier chiseling.

On a side note, I have tried cutting slightly into the shaft of an SL at all four sides at various positions, then tried heating up the epoxy and pulling the blade out, but it did not work for me, (although I wish it did). If you were able to do this on a retail SL, please let me know how.

[fatwabbit 93]

just flip it around and use it like a normal shaft. even if the handle now becomes too thin, you can always tape it up... i prefer the narrow feel (damn my girlie hands!)

[Gummer12 134]

Cut an XXX Lite tonight to turn into shaft combo, cut it just above the M in Monocomp, and inside the shaft was a piece of plastic, looked like a plastic Condom. Is this something that's part of the manfacturing (if so what does it do besides keep it STD Free), or is this something that just might have fell into the shaft at some point?

[JR Boucicaut 3759]

XXX Lites are bladder-molded.

[davezilla 0]

i found that in mine too when i took out the end plug. thought it was dried glue and tried to peel it out.

[CTHockey 2]

When they manufactor these sticks they take a unformed rolled piece of graphite and insert this plastic bag balloon inside of it. They then blow it up which then gives the shaft its proper form. If youve cut the shaft you can easily remove it, i used a piece of rebar and the entire bag comes out everytime. The other thing i noticed is that sometimes when certain OPS's are making a rattling noise it just ends up being the bag on the inside coming loose. Thats when i take out the rebar and give it a few pokes and the noise is gone!

[JR Boucicaut 3759]

Not all manufacturers use the bladder mold process. Most of the ones that do, use it on their lower-end stuff.

[Gummer12 134]

Hmm, very interesting. MSH Does it again.. Learn something new every day on here. Thanks and keep up the great work everyone.

How far down in the shaft are these bags? and for those Weight Conscious whores, can it be removed easily without cutting it? or is that not recommended?

[eaglehockey33 0]

i found the same thing in my 0ne 90

[the iceman 132]

I found candy.

[mack 44]

That one was obviously made in Mexico.

[the iceman 132]

That one was obviously made in Mexico.

Nice.

[Methane 0]

That one was obviously made in Mexico.

I had fun just picturing the scramble for candy when the Pińata stick broke on the ice.

[CTHockey 2]

It can easily be removed but youd need some tool that you could slide down the shaft and then have it expand to grab the bag on the sidewalls and pull it up. Like i said i usually just ram a piece of rebar down the shaft if a customer ever has a rattling shaft.

According to a few of my reps the blatter system is a more cost efficent way of producing these shafts but it also doesnt produce a consistant shaft. On then other hand with Warrior and Easton these shafts are hand rolled so there is a more consistant shape and feel to these shafts, but they take longer to produce and require more man/woman hours!!

[trevor13478 1]

On then other hand with Warrior and Easton these shafts are hand rolled

i found plastic in both a mac daddy and an sl that i cut

[Louie 28]

Any advice on where to cut a CCM 110 Vector?

[stevoc 0]

Here's a link with many links regarding cutting an ops to use a tapered blade,

Cutting a synergy si core, to use synergy blades

[Chadd 916]

Any advice on where to cut a CCM 110 Vector?

right down the middle. The corners are usually rounded on the inside and they're very difficult to turn into a tapered shaft.

[Louie 28]

That kinda sucks, I hae a RH 110 Vector that was given to me, but I play left-handed, I was hoping to just cut off the blade and get a new one... I'd sell the stick, but it has some sentimental value...

[king_paris 0]

Well i have already cut down a few sticks and put blades in them but i also heard that with a fused one pieces (a synergy sl in my case)u can heat up the fuse point and the blade will pull out. Anybody ever try this ?

[KYHockey3 0]

That kinda sucks, I hae a RH 110 Vector that was given to me, but I play left-handed, I was hoping to just cut off the blade and get a new one... I'd sell the stick, but it has some sentimental value...

if worse comes to worse, just cut off the blade and flip it over to put a blade in the butt end part

[Grave77Digger 1]

Here's a link with many links regarding cutting an ops to use a tapered blade,

Cutting a synergy si core, to use synergy blades

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...c=16729&hl=

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...c=17311&hl=

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...c=16007&hl=

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...c=15887&hl=

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...&hl=cutting

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...10997&st=15

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...ic=7494&hl=

These links dont work anymore

[Chadd 916]

Here's a link with many links regarding cutting an ops to use a tapered blade,

Cutting a synergy si core, to use synergy blades

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...c=16729&hl=

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...c=17311&hl=

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...c=16007&hl=

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...c=15887&hl=

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...&hl=cutting

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...10997&st=15

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/index.php?sh...ic=7494&hl=

These links dont work anymore

I fixed the links in your post, they work now.

[flyerman 0]

Well, I succeeded. I saw waht I thought was the fusion point, but there was also a faint line lower down on the blade. After three cuts and some hollowing, I figured out the initial line was, in fact, the fusion point. I cut mybe... 1/8" behind that and it came out perfectly. Used a hack saw and then used a grinder to smooth it all out, even it out...

Put a synthesis blade in it and it feels wonderful.

On a side note, inside the shaft, in one of the corners, there was a build up/bubble of composite deposite that I had to shave out.

But, other than that, not bad for a free shaft.

Help!

I broke the blade on my old (yellow) Synergy Grip, so I cut the blade off hoping to do what you did (fit a tapered blade on the bottom at the cut). But maybe I didn't cut high enough because I don't know how I would hollow this out to get a blade in there.

Within the shaft, the composite acutally goes through the center of the space, like a line creating two squarish boxes, which are in turn filled with some kind of black foamy stuff (best way I can describe it). This was my first one piece after many many years of wood sticks and shaft/blade combos, so I'm a little in the dark. But I would love to try to convert it to a tapered shaft. Any help would be great.

[donkey87 0]

You have two choices. Cut higher up on the shaft or chisel out the inside. This topic gives you some information about chiseling out the inside of the shaft.