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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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OK, thanks much for the link. Looks like a pain in the ass......

Maybe better to just cut up high and get a decent regular composite blade. Or sell it as is...

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When you cut the shaft higher above the fuse point you can usually still fit a tapered blade in.(sometimes it will need some tape to keep the blade secure)

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Sorry for this little thread high jack here but i was wondering if i could pull the blade out of an st? or if it is just a better idea to just cut it. thanks

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there is definitely a visible fuse point

QFT.

Easton doesn't use heat-reactive glue, they use cement for their OPS blade attachment and weave the carbon into it, or something similar. Either way, you'll melt the resin holding the shaft together before you get the blade to fall out. Cut until hollow or chisel your way to satisfaction.

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I got my SL cut and i have a Mission L-2 blade in it now. It took awhile and a few cuts to finally find a point where the blade would fit into the shaft. I put a lot of glue on it and yet on my first 3 shots it came loose.. I had to put 2 pieces of tape over the end of the hossel on the blade and put more glue and now its fine! I like the stick much better than it was, better feel IMO.

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Topics on MSH are now set to "retire". Not sure the magic number, but it's possible that the topics covering it haven't been visited in so long that they no longer exist I suppose.

HOWEVER, if you have another tapered shaft, hold it against your Synnergy to figure out about where the dimensions are the same and cut 1 cm below that (better safe that sorry). Then work your way up.

Easton may use cement as opposed to glue, but if they Synnergies are made the same way they used to layer an additional piece of graphite over the fuse point which was why you couldn't just heat and pull. I presume new ones are made the same.

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Topics on MSH are now set to "retire". Not sure the magic number, but it's possible that the topics covering it haven't been visited in so long that they no longer exist I suppose.

That's not true -

We haven't archived/retired a single post. If you look at the last post in the Ice equipment forum, you see some of our posts before MSH opened up to the public.

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hey dude, just cut my SL.....flip the stick to the side that has all the really small black lettering...not the side with the name and flex. You will see "EASTON" up about 12 inches from the heel of the blade. Cut directly at the right hand top corner of the "N". You will see some styrofoam and you might have to chip away a couple tiny piece of graphite on the inside of the stick in the corners.

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Graphics are not consistent from one stick to the next. Batch to batch the silk screen machine is off. Stacked my SL next to another, the color was a different length and the graphics were 1/2" higher on mine. There is a visible fuse point, use that for reference.

Edited by Rustpot

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I had an SL and i cut it to put a focus flex inside it. I just cut it where the line is at the end of the shaft indicating where it was fused together, then i just flipped it over and stuck my blade in the other side.

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