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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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sounds like a brilliant idea...

What kind of clamps did you use? can you use those C-Clamps?

yea C-Clamps can be used, and I a cut up old wooden hockey shaft about 2 inches long so the clamps don't ruin the shaft and for a good stoppage wall for the spreader - I don't usually care about the blade, because its toast. Usually you have to clamp down hard to get no slippage, and sometimes for real tough jobs I use rubber material on the shaft to avoid any slippage.

After that its "Samson" to do his deed.

samson.gif

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any chance of getting a pic of the whole setup?

found out that the local shop here is selling spreaders for $10 a pair.

Yea I got a decent plastic spreader for $8 at a harbor freight store near my house. Maybe those metal ones are more sturdy...

I found it online for $3 at harborfreight.com keyword "spreader"

I will try to have my "whole setup" pic by next week, I will have to borrow my friends digital camera - and him and I have a big hockey game sunday so I will see him.

spreader.gif

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here's a se with the fuse point line, and a ccm vector camo that i was able to turn into a blade. The cut on the ccm was the length of the hosel of the 7k blade down from the last edge of the square ccm logo, incase anyone needs a starting point for cutting a ccm.

ccm and 7k

ccm and 7k 2

ccm and 7k 3

I cut a little bit to far into the blade but i don't think it will affect the performance.

The fuse line on the se is near the end of the first black ring and it cuts into the second black ring

SE

For the 7k where is the starting point??? I have a 7k (8.0) i would like to pull will there be a difference?

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I got a free Dolomite shaft last night. The blade broke right at the fuse point and the gut didn't want it anymore. Not bad for free.

I'm just wondering though, I need to cut an inch off anyway, so I should be able to cut it from the fuse point up and still fit a tapered blade, albeit with some tape on the tenon right?

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This is the setup I can use to pull out a blade/tenon from an OPS, first you have to cut all around the stick at or near the fusepoint, cut at a depth of the wall thickness. Then you heat the blade near the tenon - and let the

"Samson" setup do its work. It works good because the vectors of the force are at 180 degree's with no slop angles. Pure force baby!

You have to ask yourself why hurt at wrist, shoulder or back while trying to create a stick which need those very joints for a hard shot!! LOL

setup.jpg

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Well, there is no blade left to pull, but, I can probably chisel out whats left. Heat and chisel. Then I'll cut the top of the shaft.

I would recommend the heat/rebar process (Push a piece of steel rebar, or thick wood dowel down through the butt end of the stick, pushing the tenon out) as opposed to chiseling. The Dolo isn't difficult to dissect at all.

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Well, I couldn't find any rebar, but, I was successful in removing what was left of the blade. Shined a light down the shaft to ensure I got everything out.

The problem came when I was inserting the new blade. It was a little tight, so I pushed alittle extra hard. i got it in, but this morning I noticed 2 cracks at the insertion end. I guess I pushed a little too hard.

Oh well, I'll take it to warm ups and see if I can get it to out in a blaze of glory....

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Well, I couldn't find any rebar, but, I was successful in removing what was left of the blade. Shined a light down the shaft to ensure I got everything out.

The problem came when I was inserting the new blade. It was a little tight, so I pushed alittle extra hard. i got it in, but this morning I noticed 2 cracks at the insertion end. I guess I pushed a little too hard.

Oh well, I'll take it to warm ups and see if I can get it to out in a blaze of glory....

I don't suppose you measured the inside length and width before you inserted the blade in ? I am curious to see if you cut enough off. You need 14 mm X 26 mm (in most cases).

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Well, I didn't do any cutting. The blade broke right at the Fusepoint. In fact there was only shreds of carbon weave hanging out.

All I did was point my heatgun right down the insertion end, then I took a screwdriver and a hammer, making sure I didn't hit the inner sides of the shaft, and after 3 or 4 whacks what was left of the blade (it was really only the tenon at this point) fell out the other side (of course I removed the end cap first).

I think the shaft was damaged whne the blade broke, but I just couldn't see the cracks until I inserted the new blade. Either that or I just pushed too darn hard...

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Oh well, I'll take it to warm ups and see if I can get it to out in a blaze of glory....

Wait....don't bring it tonight - you can still save it!, by cutting a little bit off the end, so there is no more cracks - then maybe put a longer plug in the butt end...I bet you only have to cut maybe 1/2" or so off. Its your choice man, but it prolly still have a little life in it....

Also if its a "tight fit" you can sand down the taper a little bit to make it fit, that is how I make my "standard" Sherwoods 950's fit in the Easton taper...lill elbow grease.

Edited by YouTuuk

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its tough to say whether there was a crack there or not, but I did that once. The fit was a bit too tight and I continued to force it in. After a couple sessions of hockey and I noticed cracks going up the shaft. I would say that any time you have to use excessive force its probably not good.

Oh well, I'll take it to warm ups and see if I can get it to out in a blaze of glory....

Wait....don't bring it tonight - you can still save it!, by cutting a little bit off the end, so there is no more cracks - then maybe put a longer plug in the butt end...I bet you only have to cut maybe 1/2" or so off. Its your choice man, but it prolly still have a little life in it....

Also if its a "tight fit" you can sand down the taper a little bit to make it fit, that is how I make my "standard" Sherwoods 950's fit in the Easton taper...lill elbow grease.

there is possibility that it wasn't the right size anyways so its better to continue cutting more off the end. Might be safer to cut more than 1/2 inch off.

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OK, had to cut almost an inch off the insertion end. The crack went a little deeper than it looked at first.

I put a different tapered blade in just to make sure I didn't crack it again.

I'll give it a wirl this weekend, but it seems solid, I just don't know how much the flex point was messed up.

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I'm getting a few broken OPS tomorrow or Friday. I'll post pics then.

yea, yea pics and details - Were addicted now to cutting OPS's, its not hockey anymore its a science. LOL

Like they say, "One mans trash, is another man Treasure..." or better yet

"Ones mans broken one peice, is another mans two peice..." LOL

Tuuk that's awesome. I actually hurt my shoulder for a couple weeks pulling a blade out of a Dolo, could barely shoot.

Yea, I hurt my back one day pulling out a blade, and I said, "enough is enough" - Then I went into a "think tank" while walking around hardware store.

Edited by YouTuuk

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yea, yea pics and details - Were addicted now to cutting OPS's, its not hockey anymore its a science. LOL

Like they say, "One mans trash, is another man Treasure..." or better yet

"Ones mans broken one peice, is another mans two peice..." LOL

My wife calls the basement my laboratory....

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