Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[fatwabbit 93]

haha... well, gear whoring does have its priviledges.... plus I also have to buy older gear as the newer ones will be super expensive here in Australia... The Ultralites are for sale btw, since I've progressed in my whore-ness to the tapered shaft (ooooh so current!). I only started using OPS last year when I purchased one from TBLfan, and waited 6months for it to arrive (cheapest option was to ship to a relative in the US, then have them bring it to me when they came back to visit family).

There are a few guys here that help me now with the shipping (you know who you are! ;) )... getting a shaft shipped to me is not more than $10 regardless of tapered or standard. It usually arrives in 10 days, which includes the transit, delivery and time difference! Shipping a shaft to the US from me is also about that price, unfortunately a lot of guys dont realise that its easy and cheap, and tend to shy away from sending/receiving items from the land of Oz.

Back home in Singapore was worse, where I could get an Ultralite for $70 shipped, while the guys there were paying up to $160 for a shaft alone. The LHS would normally throw in a free roll of tape, and possibly help you insert the blade if you were pals with the owner...

[stuie7 6]

Getting off topic here but yeah.. thats a good deal. costs more then that to get a pair of gloves shipped to the UK. nothing wrong with the older kit, I'd take a vapor xx, albeit in a lower flex then the 102's ive got here, over a more current bauer model anyday.

[fatwabbit 93]

True, back to the topic.

The SE16 conversion was a little more complicated than I thought. I originally thought of trying out the 'samson' trick with the spreaders, but didnt have enough of hosel to have a solid grip. I also tried the rebar trick, but all it did was get stuck.

I heated up the shaft, and chiseled out the tenon. Took about 15mins, but got most of the crap out...

[minwookie 0]

True, back to the topic.

The SE16 conversion was a little more complicated than I thought. I originally thought of trying out the 'samson' trick with the spreaders, but didnt have enough of hosel to have a solid grip. I also tried the rebar trick, but all it did was get stuck.

I heated up the shaft, and chiseled out the tenon. Took about 15mins, but got most of the crap out...

You didn't try the minwookie pile driver method :(

[fatwabbit 93]

I did try the pile driver method! :)

The tenon wasnt solid, so the rebar/file I used kept getting stuck at the end. I tried the gravity method, as well as the swinging-like-a-bat method and all I got out of the shaft was a few small pieces of broken tenon. The chiseling out was the last resort...

[simnorm 2]

I just did a Dolomite Pro Stock, very easy.

I didn't have a long rebar so I had to use a short one and a hammer. I heated up the tip real good and hammered what was left of the tenon back inside the shaft. It just slid down once it came loose.

Next I did a Bauer Vapor XX Pro Stock, not a NBH.

I read here that the old Bauer were in fact the same has the Dolo but the shaft I got was completely different. I couldn't knock out the tenon so I had to chisel it out. It took a lot more work and time.

[minwookie 0]

I did try the pile driver method! :)

The tenon wasnt solid, so the rebar/file I used kept getting stuck at the end. I tried the gravity method, as well as the swinging-like-a-bat method and all I got out of the shaft was a few small pieces of broken tenon. The chiseling out was the last resort...

Sucks. The file I have is like exactly 1" wide so its the perfect fit into a shaft and won't get stuck :)

[fatwabbit 93]

I did try the pile driver method! :)

The tenon wasnt solid, so the rebar/file I used kept getting stuck at the end. I tried the gravity method, as well as the swinging-like-a-bat method and all I got out of the shaft was a few small pieces of broken tenon. The chiseling out was the last resort...

Sucks. The file I have is like exactly 1" wide so its the perfect fit into a shaft and won't get stuck :)

Will consider that the next time... will also get a good heat gun since I'm moving towards tapered combos now instead of OPS

[Jarick 5]

I bought myself a nice little plastic mitre box and a couple new hacksaw blades, so I've got a nice little rig down in my basement. I've got my fold-up work table, all my tape, glue, heat gun, glue gun, wood plugs, etc all ready to go. It's nice to have a clean straight cut for once.

[Xtra 0]

I can't search any type of threads... My browser is being dumb! So spare the flames if this has been talked about ;-(

First off I'm new here :) & am seeking advise...

So my Easton SE16 broke. It was a damn good stick!!! but the blade gave out luckily & not the shaft! That's still in perfect condition.

I've used nothing but One pieces up until 2 weeks ago where I switched to a ONE95 blade+One95 shaft.

Now- I've never converted the one piece into a two piece before. The shaft of the se16 is perfect so I wanna be able to use it and not just toss it out...I sawed off the blade at the "SEAM" that you see on the stick( SE16 owners should know what I'm talking about ). I know about using the BUTT & popping in a blade on that end. I still needa do this! but before I waste 35$$ on a blade...

1.) IS there anyone out there that has done this successfully along with playing with the stick for a full game with no problems?

2.) The stick remains about the same height as it was before BUT... since by adding a blade at the butt, you're turning the stick upside down, does this change the flex of the stick at all?

3.) Is the quality effected at all? ( example: stick doesn't feel the same... breaks easier )

Just need these little questions answered from experienced people that have done this before.

Thanks in advance!

[flyerman 0]

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index...4&hl=master

[Ahriman 1]

Does any one have an idea what cutting a broken blade off a U+ stick would be like? My blade is cracked and unusable but before I start chopping at it I was wondering if any one had any experience with this, I'm assuming there is no material inside the shaft and definitely would require a tapered bade but if any one had an idea where would be best to cut it or if it's even possible giving the slightly different shaft geometry....

[gymmonster 4]

well I broke another dolomite last week, the 2008 model (model before the HD)

I ordered a pro stock warrior blade off Hockey monkey, grabbed it today and went at taking what was left of the blade out of my broken dolo.

problem was i blasted the entire blade off on a slap shot so there was really only the part before the blade left.

I cut where the faint line/fuse point was and then heated and tried to pull the blade out.......no go

Eventually i just sawed the whole blade off at the fuse hoping i could chisle the tenon out.

To my surprise, what was left of the tenon of the blade (which I could see outlined) looked like it wasnt glued in but almost fused like a true one piece!

I thought oh shit I must have cut in the wrong place, but I stuck a ruler in to measure where the tenon ended and it matched the same length as the tenon on my replacement blade.

I've been chisling away for an hour to no avail.

Has anyone encountered this and found a solution?

[cptjeff 0]

It is fused with a glue. It's just the glue on the dolos will actually melt. It does have to be at a much higher temperature then a normal two piece. I suspect you just didn't heat it long enough.

[gymmonster 4]

hmm im heating it with a stove i dont have a heat gun

[Law Goalie 147]

Buy one; they're like $10 and they pay for themselves with the first shaft you convert.

[SirJW 207]

Heat Gun $9.99

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=96289

[simnorm 2]

I didn't use a heatgun to convert my dolo. The blade was sawed off at the fuse point.

Did you try knocking the tenon back inside the shaft?

After heating it on the stove, I used a hammer and something solid and just wide enough to fit the tenon but not damage the wall of the shaft.

[fatwabbit 93]

Did you try knocking the tenon back inside the shaft?

was going to suggest this as well.

As the tapered widens, the tenon will get looser as it gets worked further up the shaft, until it just falls out the butt end (remember to take that off first)

[fastmiele 59]

It is fused with a glue. It's just the glue on the dolos will actually melt. It does have to be at a much higher temperature then a normal two piece. I suspect you just didn't heat it long enough.

Is it glue or resin ? If its resin, then its going to be a bitch and a half to heat it hot enough to get to budge.

Also, for gymonster. Since he hacked off the blade he might as well measure the inside length and width of the shaft. I think the necessary measurements is 14 x 26 mm for a tapered blade. If its something like 13 mm then he is going to have to start cutting up higher in order to fit his new tapered blade in.

[Powerfibers 8]

Anyone have any luck with NikeBauer OPS like the ONE55? Thanks.

[Chadd 916]

It is fused with a glue. It's just the glue on the dolos will actually melt. It does have to be at a much higher temperature then a normal two piece. I suspect you just didn't heat it long enough.

Is it glue or resin ? If its resin, then its going to be a bitch and a half to heat it hot enough to get to budge.

Also, for gymonster. Since he hacked off the blade he might as well measure the inside length and width of the shaft. I think the necessary measurements is 14 x 26 mm for a tapered blade. If its something like 13 mm then he is going to have to start cutting up higher in order to fit his new tapered blade in.

The Warrior resin is soft enough that you can heat it with a heat gun and not do damage to the shaft.

[bchockey18 0]

does anyone know at which point i´d have to cut a dolomite shaft to fit in standard blades ?

i´m moving to europe and it´s a pain to get tapered blades at a good price, if at all. the sticks are so much cheaper over here, too.

any help is much appreciated !!

[number18 0]

you'd lose a bit of length and need a wood plug. just measure up the shaft and cut it or just flip it and put the blade in the butt end

[fastmiele 59]

It is fused with a glue. It's just the glue on the dolos will actually melt. It does have to be at a much higher temperature then a normal two piece. I suspect you just didn't heat it long enough.

Is it glue or resin ? If its resin, then its going to be a bitch and a half to heat it hot enough to get to budge.

Also, for gymonster. Since he hacked off the blade he might as well measure the inside length and width of the shaft. I think the necessary measurements is 14 x 26 mm for a tapered blade. If its something like 13 mm then he is going to have to start cutting up higher in order to fit his new tapered blade in.

The Warrior resin is soft enough that you can heat it with a heat gun and not do damage to the shaft.

so Inno/Warrior sticks are in the same class as TPS and Mission sticks where you can heat and pull the blades out ?