Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[Chadd 916]

It is fused with a glue. It's just the glue on the dolos will actually melt. It does have to be at a much higher temperature then a normal two piece. I suspect you just didn't heat it long enough.

Is it glue or resin ? If its resin, then its going to be a bitch and a half to heat it hot enough to get to budge.

Also, for gymonster. Since he hacked off the blade he might as well measure the inside length and width of the shaft. I think the necessary measurements is 14 x 26 mm for a tapered blade. If its something like 13 mm then he is going to have to start cutting up higher in order to fit his new tapered blade in.

The Warrior resin is soft enough that you can heat it with a heat gun and not do damage to the shaft.

so Inno/Warrior sticks are in the same class as TPS and Mission sticks where you can heat and pull the blades out ?

Generally, yes. Inno was the easiest to pull, not sure if they still use the same stuff. I would expect that they do.

[fatwabbit 93]

does anyone know at which point i´d have to cut a dolomite shaft to fit in standard blades ?

i´m moving to europe and it´s a pain to get tapered blades at a good price, if at all. the sticks are so much cheaper over here, too.

any help is much appreciated !!

If you are going to go standard, why dont you just flip the shaft around? That way, you still have a tapered end if you need it.

[li7039 0]

skimmed through this, anyone have success pulling the blade from a sickkick

[n3ss 0]

i just cut my reebok 7k today. cut off about 3". all i had was standard blade, so i hacked it up with a dremel. So far it feels alright but i'll find out friday how well it does.

[li7039 0]

Think i converted a sick kick 7k shaft to a tapered shaft. Cut just below the RBK on the shaft heated the hell out of it and used the rebar method to knock out the tennon

[Makoto 3]

li7039, let me know how this goes. I have a pro-stock 7v sickick that I'm looking to do the same with. My blade is shot, but I love the stick, so I figured I'd make it into a two piece. Just haven't got around to it yet.

[shifter 0]

Think i converted a sick kick 7k shaft to a tapered shaft. Cut just below the RBK on the shaft heated the hell out of it and used the rebar method to knock out the tennon

Hmm which 7k is it? I have the 7k sickick one without the shinny graphics and want to pull the blade out without shortening it..

[ddbowdoin 0]

anyone want to send me a pm if they have done this to the original RBK O stick? I broke mine of two years last night and I have NO money for a new stick.

[li7039 0]

Think i converted a sick kick 7k shaft to a tapered shaft. Cut just below the RBK on the shaft heated the hell out of it and used the rebar method to knock out the tennon

Hmm which 7k is it? I have the 7k sickick one without the shinny graphics and want to pull the blade out without shortening it..

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/hockeymonkey_2079_194157072

[yrhmblnr8r 69]

anyone want to send me a pm if they have done this to the original RBK O stick? I broke mine of two years last night and I have NO money for a new stick.

I tried to salvage a broken 9K0 a while back. I cut low on the taper and chisel/dremel'd out the existing tenon. I got a blade in there, but I had to cut a 1/4" off its tenon. Since the blade I used had a hollow tenon it got compacted and sat at an angle in the final product. I didn't account for the shaft walls get thicker as I moved up the shaft, getting closer to the O's.

If you're going to try this, cut as low as you can and be sure to buy a blade with a solid tenon. Good luck.

[stuie7 6]

Think i converted a sick kick 7k shaft to a tapered shaft. Cut just below the RBK on the shaft heated the hell out of it and used the rebar method to knock out the tennon

Hmm which 7k is it? I have the 7k sickick one without the shinny graphics and want to pull the blade out without shortening it..

I tried to convert a 7K V* into a tapered shaft and it didnt work at all, i cut at what appeared to be the fuse point and it would have required some serious dremell'ing to get any tapered blades in that. But what have you got to lose, give it a try.

[simnorm 2]

wasn't the original 7K V* a CCM v130 repaint? I think that the V130 can't be converted into a shaft.

[Makoto 3]

wasn't the original 7K V* a CCM v130 repaint? I think that the V130 can't be converted into a shaft.

Why can't it be converted? Is it because it is not fused?

[jrhky36 1]

anyone want to send me a pm if they have done this to the original RBK O stick? I broke mine of two years last night and I have NO money for a new stick.

i did one a while back. had a hard time getting the tenon out but i did. ended up selling it b/c i could not stand the stick. you'll have to pick one side and get the part of the tenon out once you've done that you should have no problem gettin the rest out.

[li7039 0]

mine was a retail

[Leafsrule16 5]

anyone want to send me a pm if they have done this to the original RBK O stick? I broke mine of two years last night and I have NO money for a new stick.

Your shit out of luck unless you want to flip it and completely ruin the feel of a stick.

[stuie7 6]

I've read on here a couple of people have sucessfully converted a 9k0 into a tapered shaft, It sounds like its alot of work but indeed possible.

[All Torhs Team 0]

Just cut a Bauer X-60 and stuck in an Easton ST blade.

Im just worried about the flex of the thing now.

[teamhystyk 0]

anyone want to send me a pm if they have done this to the original RBK O stick? I broke mine of two years last night and I have NO money for a new stick.

Your shit out of luck unless you want to flip it and completely ruin the feel of a stick.

Not true, I have made over 6 9k O tech sticks into tapered shafts, a little heat a dremel tool and a nice chisel is all it took, blades fit perfect with no issue, hollow blade tenon or not, Its very hard to explain over internet how I did this but its just time consuming and takes patience.

[shotty 7]

Just cut a Bauer X-60 and stuck in an Easton ST blade.

Im just worried about the flex of the thing now.

i'd be more worried about the balance.

[All Torhs Team 0]

Yeah. Its sketchy. Im not expecting alot out of it because I know I didnt cut it correctly. But I got a blade in it and its just serving as a #3 stick or a loaner. But Its always fun screwin around with a new twig at late night scrimages.

[simnorm 2]

I saved the blade from a Ferland F30 OPS that broke in the shaft.

Boy that was a lot of work!

Heat and pull, or rebar method wouldn't work. I had to cut the shaft just above where the tenon goes up to and chisel out the shaft from there. Once I figured that out, it went pretty smoothly since I only had to chisel out one side of the shaft.

[Jarick 5]

I bought a 7k (old version) that was cut at the fuse point and flipped...I heated it and chiseled out the blade, but I still had to cut off another couple inches to fit a senior tapered blade in there. It was a 75 flex though so that might have changed things.

[jp21 0]

Hi everyone,

Awesome story and need your help!

So this season i've broken 2 XXXXs and one dolomite shaft... thank god i got them free or i would be living on the streets by now, but im going paranoid because i have no sticks left..

so one fine morning i went into the shed and found my very first synergy.. yes its the 2nd generation classic one. ( not the one with 2 yellow stripes in the logo ), but anyway same stick. So the blade on that is getting flimsy and is chipping... the dolo,...

anyways long story short..

does anyone know where to cut the synergy one piece to fit a tapered composite blade?

ii've been lightly knocking on the shaft and around that "pending" word or something, it sounds hollow, if i rmb correctly its somewhere around there...

Anyone with a cut one piece stick able to post their sticks up for reference??

Thankyou sooo much for everyones help!!! :)

Going old-school :D

[Sniper90 0]

i loved using the synergy as a 2 piece.. neways, you should see some kinda "line" near the blade.. with all 2piece molded 1 pieces, it will be pretty apparent. with my experience with synergies, the paint usually chips where the fused point is. ALSO, from what i have seen and used as well, the taper is fairly long and you dont have to be super precise where you cut. i have used ones that have been cut right where the hosel in the blade ends (you can cut where that line you see is, and then go a bit higher and higher until you see the hollow out), and i have used ones that have been cut as high up as a 1/4 into the E logo. HTH