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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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My Mac Daddy broke a few weeks ago and I found myself a couple of taperd blades today, Had to cut about 10 inches up the shaft to stick a blade in. there was this spine like thing inside the shaft that was causeing my some issues, any way im gonna throw an extension inside the other end and see how it works after all this.

Later this summer I may have access to some broken 10K OPS. Is there a certain AT number that is easier to turn into a taperd shaft or are all 10K's the same.

thanks

I found the A1T was easiest. cut right at the end of the rBK swoosh looking thing on the taper of the shaft

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word of caution when using rebar.

make sure the diameter of the rebar does not exceed the internal width of the shaft. this particularly important on .470 tapered shafts. it will get stuck, and it sucks.

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Just curious if anyone knows what the taper is on a warrior mac daddy? I had to cut about 10 inches from the bottom of the blade up the shaft just so I could get a tapered blade in. the blade is a 570 taper im assuming mac daddys a 470? thanks

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successfully mated an S19 broken at the blade with an S17 broken in the shaft.

I was sitting there looking at the S17 blade, thinking: the elliptical taper is just an enlongated hosel, so i felt around for a fuse point, cut, and found a fairly long tenon, then cut the S19 until the hosel was void enough to take the tenon and voilà. I hacked up a bit of the "blade" portion so it ain't pretty, but I'll get it looking sexy next time.

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successfully mated an S19 broken at the blade with an S17 broken in the shaft.

I was sitting there looking at the S17 blade, thinking: the elliptical taper is just an enlongated hosel, so i felt around for a fuse point, cut, and found a fairly long tenon, then cut the S19 until the hosel was void enough to take the tenon and voilà. I hacked up a bit of the "blade" portion so it ain't pretty, but I'll get it looking sexy next time.

I thought the S17 and S19 were true OPS, no tenon. How far up from the heel is the fuse point?

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I thought the S17 and S19 were true OPS, no tenon. How far up from the heel is the fuse point?

Start at about 1:30. Notice 2:15-2:20

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I thought the S17 and S19 were true OPS, no tenon. How far up from the heel is the fuse point?

think of the ellipse as part of the blade. the ellipse transitions into a taper and it then fused to the standard shaft just like a blade would be. essentially, they just made the hosel of the blade longer, changed the shape and the rest is business as usual. I'll post pics next time I do it, as this one ain't pretty enough to take pics of

if you tap your finger nail up the shaft you can hear where the tenon starts and ends.

Edited by shotty

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Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm desperate to salvage a pro stock S19. Does anyone have a picture to show where to cut for either a tapered or standard blade? Will I lose performance with a standard blade conversion?

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start just below the 9. you might have to make a few cuts to find a snug fit but if you're desperate, I don't think you'll have a problem with that.

standard blade won't fly, you'll lose WAY too much shaft.

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start just below the 9. you might have to make a few cuts to find a snug fit but if you're desperate, I don't think you'll have a problem with that.

standard blade won't fly, you'll lose WAY too much shaft.

So if I buy any tapered blade I should be able to fit in somewhere in that elliptical section?

I can see what looks like a seam in that area. Is that the joint? And if I cut there, doesn't that mean I need to chisel out the "tenon" part of the blade?

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Nevermind--I got lazy since I only have a hacksaw and I just flipped the S19 and put in a standard blade. Used it this morning and it works perfectly for me--no change in performance (or I guess I'm not good enough to notice it).

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As jr. blackhawks said, you can sand down the tenon for it to fit, but I would just order a jr. blade online if you don't have enough options at your lhs. Also, the one time I've tried to cut further up to fit a sr. blade in an int. stick I reached half way up the shaft until I realized it wasn't working. <_<

My kid brother snapped the blade on his intermediate X60...would this take a junior blade like an intermediate One95?

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Easton does not use a heat-reactive glue to bond the two, so heating/pulling will get you nothing but a ruined shaft. You will need to cut and chisel.

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hello from Russia, guys.

Yesterday I converted the SE16 grip with broken blade.

I did it this way:

1) found a fise point (I had to sand around)

2) Cuted at fuse line

3) heated with a heat-gun at 550C for about 5 minutes

4) used knife as a wedge between tenon and shaft (I was surprized by softness of tenon!)

5) I took a rebar with proper diameter (which freely went through the shaft) and pushed the tenon out through the shaft!

it was really easy, it took about 30 minutes to get a perfect tapered shaft, but it differs from stick to stick. Some sticks were really hard to convert and it can take up a day. Dolomite and SE16 were easy, but some SL's are really hard.

BEFORE (SE16):

bf79ecfa972f.jpg

AFTER (SE16) (spray paint silver metallic):

f043845aae29.jpg

Edited by MilleniumFalcon

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didnt see anyone talk about S11 here, do i just straight cut it?

It depends on flex. If your S11 is not very stiff just flip it.

If it is stiff - sand around to find a fuse point and cut there. It varies from stick to stick. I've already done about 10 sticks, some were easy and some NOT!

Don't overheat!

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you dont even need to sand. just run your finger tip around where the fuse point should be and you'll be able to feel it. hen you do, chop and chisel.

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you dont even need to sand. just run your finger tip around where the fuse point should be and you'll be able to feel it. hen you do, chop and chisel.

yeah, like this:

17f01314c623.jpg

cut:

b1388cc0e68a.jpg

don't be confused by graphics, this is another stick, but in general it's easy to find a fuse line even w/o sanding.

Edited by MilleniumFalcon

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Broke the blade on my Samsonov pro stock One95 a couple weeks ago, decided to take it out to the saw today to see if I could salvage it...surprisingly super easy, only had to make one cut and bam, usable shaft. Best part is a Bauer 4 inch composite extension will put it right back at my preferred length. If it makes any difference the code on the shaft was "B", there was no tenon or anything, shaft was hollow with just some foam above the heel of the blade.

DSCN0573.jpg

DSCN0572.jpg

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