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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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i've done it many times. blade durability is not usually an issue unless the stick is worn out when it snaps.

i usually do the same thing as wabbit. measure the blade height compared to others... make a cut, then chisel off the layers of carbon/composite wrap until i hit the epoxy layer. usually you can tell when you're at the tenon because there will be numbers or codes on the tenon.

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I've salvaged many blades using a version of Fatwabbit's method. I'm at the point now where teammates just hand over broken sticks in the locker room knowing it'll be a blade by next game.

I use a sliding compound mitre saw, but I think you could do the same thing with your dremmel. I cut the shaft down to the top of the hosel then make a guess at the fuse point, like FW. Then I set the depth guide on the saw so I'm only shaving off the layers of composite shaft and not cutting into the hosel itself. I work the saw back and forth on the top the shaft as I move from the fuse point to the top of the hosel. Then I make a single pass across the front and back of the shaft at the fuse point, like FW. After that, a tap with a chisel or flat screw driver should separate what's left of the shaft in one C-shaped piece. No heat necessary.

I've been surprised at how easily they come apart. TPS, Harrow, and CCM seem to be the easiest to separate, then Bauer, then Easton.

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I took a look on every page of this thread and didn't seem to get the appropriate response for cutting an x60 OPS. A few pages back there was something for a intermediate OPS but I'm not sure if the same rules apply for the SR size. I have a SR x60 stick and I'm wondering about where to cut to allow for a tapered blade.

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I took a look on every page of this thread and didn't seem to get the appropriate response for cutting an x60 OPS. A few pages back there was something for a intermediate OPS but I'm not sure if the same rules apply for the SR size. I have a SR x60 stick and I'm wondering about where to cut to allow for a tapered blade.

there's no need to ask for an exact spot, just slightly lower where you thing a tapered blade could fit. Just make a few cuts to see if you can get a tapered blade to fit.

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I took a look on every page of this thread and didn't seem to get the appropriate response for cutting an x60 OPS. A few pages back there was something for a intermediate OPS but I'm not sure if the same rules apply for the SR size. I have a SR x60 stick and I'm wondering about where to cut to allow for a tapered blade.

Same rules apply.

My INT ops X60 i put in a SR x60 tapered blade.

Just find the tenon and start cutting from there.

what i did was just put the tapered blade aligned with the ops, searched for the correct spot to cut, i basically tried to make the cut so i wouldnt shorted the height of the stick (does this make sense)? My goal was to replace the OPS' broken blade with the tapered blade AND keep the same height. THe OPS was an inch to long anyway, so i found the tenon, Cut AT the tenon and then cut an inch up from it. Fit right in.

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This is a cutting topic, maybe not always specific to OPS.

I rescued a Synthesis that had mushroomed out. I cut out the bad portion at the bottom, and need a few strips of tape to keep a tapered blade tight. I now think I want to put a standard blade in the bottom. How far up will I need to cut it? Anyone have any experience here?

Second question, what is the minimum length of a shaft to be considered usable, knowing that the insertion of the blade and the ability to put in a wood plug would extend the length?

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This has probably been answered in here, but the thread is 41 pages long, so it's just easier to ask.

I broke a Warrior Mac Daddy a little while back. It was broken just above the heel so I was planning on turning it into a shaft. I cut a little above the break point, and inside the shaft, it looks like there is some sort of plastic bag or something. How do I pull this out? I've tried using pliers, and I can get a good grip, but it just doesn't seem to move.. I can get pictures if necessary...

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I would just flip the shaft. I picked up a mac daddy the other day from my friend, but it was Righty and I'm a lefty. So I cut the blade off (I was able to pull the green bag out with a pliers) but I could not fit a tapered blade in. Since its not fused. I spent like an hour trying to shave the shaft down but it didn't fit. I would just flip the shaft if I were you. That's what I ended up doing. Now I just need to find a really long plug lol

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This has probably been answered in here, but the thread is 41 pages long, so it's just easier to ask.

I broke a Warrior Mac Daddy a little while back. It was broken just above the heel so I was planning on turning it into a shaft. I cut a little above the break point, and inside the shaft, it looks like there is some sort of plastic bag or something. How do I pull this out? I've tried using pliers, and I can get a good grip, but it just doesn't seem to move.. I can get pictures if necessary...

Twist the plastic around a bit so you have something for the pliers to grab. If you have a heat gun you can also melt the plastic a bit, then pull on it once it cools.

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As long as you cut it at the correct spot, yes.

However, it is not a science. You may have to cut up the shaft a little at a time. And given the fact that many one-piece sticks are simply bonded shaft/blade construction, you may reach a spot where a tapered blade would fit, but still have some of the leftover old blade stuck up in the shaft, at which point you will have to chisel or dremel it out.

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If I were to cut a INT dolo DD OPS, would the shaft dimensions be the same as a reg Dolo INT shaft and would it be able to fit a SR tapered blade?

Just wanted to make sure since I tried fitting in a SR tapered blade into my INT SE OPS after I cut it several times and it still wouldn't fit. I even tried fitting a jr tapered blade into my SE but the height of the shaft was still too small and as I cutted even more, the shaft width became even wider and the height remained the same.

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I did a search in this thread but got nothing for "ccm".

I have a CCM U+ CL stick but I really want to lose the Drury curve and move to a Sakic curve - which isn't available on this stick. Anyone cut the blade off this stick? Would an S19 blade fit?

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I have never tried it on a U.CL. However, on the 110, 120, and 130's I had issues as CCM used blader technologies to make their sticks back then. As a result, the interior walls to the shaft were uneven and made for a very poor conversion. I'd only tried it on the 120, and thought I did a pretty good job on the cut, but it broke quickly and the blade was just slightly cock-eyed in the shaft due to the irregularity (not sure anyone would have noticed it had I not known myself). Regardless, it split/cracked down the corner on the first hard shot I took.

The U.CL may be totally different, of course.

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For anyone who's done a 10k, did you dremel/file the sides of the shaft near the blade area after cutting, or did you just cut higher?

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I did a search in this thread but got nothing for "ccm".

I have a CCM U+ CL stick but I really want to lose the Drury curve and move to a Sakic curve - which isn't available on this stick. Anyone cut the blade off this stick? Would an S19 blade fit?

I've converted a U+ CL. My tapered blade fit without losing much length. You'd probably have to cut too much off to make a standard blade work.

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