Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

Has anybody converted a TPS R10 to a tapered shaft? Any tips for me?

I haven't tried an R10 specifically, however, I have converted many, many TPS sticks and they were always the easiest; just heat and pull. Some you might have to use a pocket knife to clear some of the cement filler they use to fill the fuse point, but I'd try heat/pull first before cutting.

[Neal 41]

I haven't tried an R10 specifically, however, I have converted many, many TPS sticks and they were always the easiest; just heat and pull. Some you might have to use a pocket knife to clear some of the cement filler they use to fill the fuse point, but I'd try heat/pull first before cutting.

No such luck on this one. I've heated until the hosel area is hard to hold and used the multiple clamp set up shown earlier in this thread with no luck. I've even tried pounding the hosel out after heating with a rebar and no luck so far. I'm starting to think the R10 might be either an epoxied blade (with an epoxy not affected by heat) or closer to a true one piece construction.

[MilleniumFalcon 5]

TPS Genesis was a true OPS

[Machinehead2k5 32]

I have made a tapered shaft with a Mission Fuel Ti stick.

[HattrickSwayze 3]

Has anyone had luck cutting down a newer Easton ST?? I started with mine but was hoping someone had already done it so I have an idea of how far up to go. Also, doesn't Easton use an epoxy that doesn't react to heat?

[reverseit 0]

Has anyone had luck cutting down a newer Easton ST?? I started with mine but was hoping someone had already done it so I have an idea of how far up to go. Also, doesn't Easton use an epoxy that doesn't react to heat?

I haven't even gotten around to using my new ST but I did notice the fuse point was very obvious and a lot closer to the blade than any other stick I've seen. Almost like a traditional shaft + blade combo just painted over.

[HattrickSwayze 3]

That's what I thought too, but I started there and had no luck. It's full of foam and what appears to be the tenon material all up through that section.

[simnorm 2]

I managed to save the blade from the 2010 ST. The blade is identical in length to the replacement SE16 blade. The glue didn't react to heat at all and the ST blade tenon is not hollow like a dolomite blade.

[HattrickSwayze 3]

So what did you do to get the blade out then? Use something to force it out?

[EvilPepe 24]

I've converted a U+ CL. My tapered blade fit without losing much length. You'd probably have to cut too much off to make a standard blade work.

Ditto this. One of the easiest sticks I've done.

[simnorm 2]

So what did you do to get the blade out then? Use something to force it out?

it goes a little like this:

1) cut about 3" above where the tenon ends inside the shaft.

2) Use a chisel, strong utility knife and pliers to remove the shaft layer on the bottom of the shaft all the way fuse point. Heat gun helps somewhat.

3) Once you have that thin portion of the shaft off, apply some more heat and repeat the steps on a wider side of the shaft. Starting from both the side and top.

4) Finally when you have more or less half the tenon exposed lengthwise, clamp the 3" left of the shaft into a vise and twist the blade off.

I've managed to save 4 blades that way.

First was a from Bauer x20 to experiment, took about an hour.

Second was a Ferland F30, glue got soft so it took about 15 minuutes.

I did also a SWD T90, since the shaft is diagonally wrapped, it took forever and the blade tenon was really thin.

It took me about 40 minutes to save the ST blade.

Tapered blades are rare and pretty expensive so it's worth the effort, for me at least plus I love little projects like this.

[DolomaticDangles 13]

a 2010 dolomite spyne (int) will take a tapered blade right? My blade is pretty much shot.

[farhanshak 1]

hey guys.

i just picked up 3 intermediate (70 flex) warrior dolomite 2011 ops broken at the blade or around the blade, wanted to use them as shafts.

has anyone had any experience with these sticks? would they take tapered blades senior? junior? thanks in advance everyone for your input on this.

[DolomaticDangles 13]

hey guys.

i just picked up 3 intermediate (70 flex) warrior dolomite 2011 ops broken at the blade or around the blade, wanted to use them as shafts.

has anyone had any experience with these sticks? would they take tapered blades senior? junior? thanks in advance everyone for your input on this.

I just broke my 70 flex Dolomite Spyne the other day. They will take a senior tapered blade. Now, you can also flip them over and insert a standard senior blade. I tried to heat up the blade at the fuse point and pull it out but it wouldnt budge. I may not have heated it long enough though. Then I cut off the blade and tried to get the tenon out. I chizzled the center away from the shaft, but I couldnt get it out of the shaft. So I would try to pull the blade out, and if it doesnt come out, then just flip it.

[Wildcat85 0]

Has anyone had any success getting a blade out of a broken one95 G3? Its an ovechkin and I really want the blade from it and nothing says how to salvage blades only shafts. Thanks

[fatwabbit 93]

read #662 in this topic

[BobbyG06 0]

Does an Easton S13 take a tapered blade? Mine broke at the blade, and I want to put a blade in it to use as a backup.

[tml67 0]

Anyone converted a broken Bauer TotalONE OPS to tapered shaft?

[All Flash 49]

For those who have converted the original "O" stick, could you plz PM me with the details

Have a good idea of what im doing but would like to hear any nuances that others might have had

Thanx

[twiztidwrista10 3]

Hey guys I picked up some broken Jason Ward pro stock Dolomite 's from larrivee. I don't know which model/year these Dolo's are exactly. They have the PC graphics with the green font and diamonds, no dragons. I did do a search but I'm looking for some specific info on getting these blades out. One has already been cut at the fuse point (tenon pictured), and the other two have broken blades. I tried heating and pulling one of the blades a little but no success, does this method really work on these Dolo's? I separated a Vapor XX OPS using the heat and pull method, but this was ages ago. Can someone elaborate better on the heat/chisel/rebar method? I'm gonna be a little ticked if I wasted $100+ on shafts I can't convert. Thanks.

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

Hey guys I picked up some broken Jason Ward pro stock Dolomite 's from larrivee. I don't know which model/year these Dolo's are exactly. They have the PC graphics with the green font and diamonds, no dragons. I did do a search but I'm looking for some specific info on getting these blades out. One has already been cut at the fuse point (tenon pictured), and the other two have broken blades. I tried heating and pulling one of the blades a little but no success, does this method really work on these Dolo's? I separated a Vapor XX OPS using the heat and pull method, but this was ages ago. Can someone elaborate better on the heat/chisel/rebar method? I'm gonna be a little ticked if I wasted $100+ on shafts I can't convert. Thanks.

I couldn't even heat and pull the original dolo which was supposed to be a piece of cake............Anyways I wouldn't worry about heating and pulling as chiseling the tenon out is pretty simple. Just cut at the fuse point and chisel it out. Flat head screwdrivers help to. Some say heating the tenon helps but who knows

might be helpful as well

http://bhworld.wordpress.com/2010/04/08/how-to-turn-a-warrior-dolomite-into-a-tapered-shaft/

[sturdy22 26]

Hey guys I picked up some broken Jason Ward pro stock Dolomite 's from larrivee. I don't know which model/year these Dolo's are exactly. They have the PC graphics with the green font and diamonds, no dragons. I did do a search but I'm looking for some specific info on getting these blades out. One has already been cut at the fuse point (tenon pictured), and the other two have broken blades. I tried heating and pulling one of the blades a little but no success, does this method really work on these Dolo's? I separated a Vapor XX OPS using the heat and pull method, but this was ages ago. Can someone elaborate better on the heat/chisel/rebar method? I'm gonna be a little ticked if I wasted $100+ on shafts I can't convert. Thanks.

I have done several of these sticks. after the blade is off use the heat gun and you will start to see where the tenon will peel away from the shaft. then use the chisel to peel the layers off. I also use a dremle tool to clean out the tenon as well. I find if you are able to get one side of the tenon to separate from the shaft the process goes pretty quick. I use a heat gun thru the whole process but use just enough heat to separate what you are working on. I have done 5-6 warriors and 4-5 eastons like this.

[fatwabbit 93]

Agree with Sturdy.

I would suggest cutting the blade off, then doing the heat and chisel method. Took me about 5 mins to convert, really a piece of cake.... UNTIL today when I got a 11k prostock to convert. No heat, just used the chisel, small knock and all the glue just dropped off! All in all, maybe a minute to clear any residual glue/epoxy, then using a long metal rod to push the foam and shit down the shaft.

Am getting about 3-4 more of these 11k shafts to convert...

[twiztidwrista10 3]

Just to clarify, are y'all pushing the blade tenon out with the rebar from the butt end toward the blade end OR the blade end toward the butt end? Thanks.

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

Just to clarify, are y'all pushing the blade tenon out with the rebar from the butt end toward the blade end OR the blade end toward the butt end? Thanks.

I found rebar useless on the conversion I just did which was a pro stock SE. Chisels and screwdrivers are your friend