Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[simnorm 2]

For a Dolomite, I cut off the blade and use a rebar to push the tenon back inside the shaft. I have a small rebar that fits perfectly, it just a hair smaller than the inside of the shaft.

I've used a chisel for other shafts, it's not needed for a dolomite...

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

For a Dolomite, I cut off the blade and use a rebar to push the tenon back inside the shaft. I have a small rebar that fits perfectly, it just a hair smaller than the inside of the shaft.

I've used a chisel for other shafts, it's not needed for a dolomite...

figures...........I didn't get some rebar until after I converted a dolo

[Buzz_LightBeer 961]

I use lots of heat with a heat gun, i clean out the fuse point with a hooked utility blade, and pull, havent had too much trouble yet.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2010-9/1360555/IMG_0512.jpg

Also works for pro stock Reebok TT's

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2010-9/1360555/IMG_0513.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2010-9/1360555/IMG_0514.JPG

[fatwabbit 93]

I push the tenon out thru the shaft (comes out the top end). I've found it a lot easier that way, but each person has their own way to do it.

[RadioGaGa 162]

I was trying to cut down an 11K earlier tonight. There was lots of tenon material left in it...and no amount of heat or prying could get it apart....so I just cut it higher on the shaft. It's not cut high enough for a standard blade....but I'm not sure if it is too high for a tapered blade. It was a found stick...so if I end up not using it...no harm, no foul, nothing wasted but my time *L*.

[DolomaticDangles 13]

I cut the blade off my broken Dolomite spyne about a month ago, but I have a question. After I cut at the fuse point, I chiseled away at the tenon. I could clearly see the layer of epoxy. So I chiseled the tenon but it still wouldn't come out. Do I have to chisel further down in the shaft?

[fatwabbit 93]

Converted a Sherwood RM19 last night... another easy one, just cut and try to fit the blade. No epoxy, no tenon.

[twiztidwrista10 3]

Good news! I converted the first of my three Dolomite 's last night, the one that was already cut at the fuse point (pictured above). Heating and attempting to push the tenon out with rebar from the butt end toward the blade end did not work at all. The secret for me was to continually heat the shaft, and then wedge a long flat head screwdriver between all four sides of the tenon and the inner shaft wall. This eventually kind of separated/loosened the epoxy (tan'ish colored) bond between the inner shaft wall and the blade tenon. The tenon just kind of gave way and slid down the shaft toward the butt end a little. I then used the rebar to finish the job and push the tenon out the butt end. I was surprised at the length of the tenon, def. seemed longer than a normal blade tenon. All in all it took me about an hour, but I chalk this up to inexperience seeing as how this was my first Dolo conversion and first conversion all together in probably 6 years. I paired it with a Easton SE16 blade, it fit pretty snugly but I'd rather it be snug then having to fool around with strips of tape/extra glue on the tenon. Feels really balanced, can't wait to use it in my game tonight. Hopefully I'll get some pictures up. Two more to go!

[wrangler 157]

Good news! I converted the first of my three Dolomite 's last night, the one that was already cut at the fuse point (pictured above). Heating and attempting to push the tenon out with rebar from the butt end toward the blade end did not work at all. The secret for me was to continually heat the shaft, and then wedge a long flat head screwdriver between all four sides of the tenon and the inner shaft wall. This eventually kind of separated/loosened the epoxy (tan'ish colored) bond between the inner shaft wall and the blade tenon. The tenon just kind of gave way slid down the shaft toward the butt end a little. I then used the rebar to finish the job and push the tenon out the butt end. I was surprised at the length of the tenon, def. seemed longer than a normal blade tenon. All in all it took me about an hour, but I chalk this up to inexperience seeing as how this was my first Dolo conversion and first conversion all together in probably 6 years. I paired it with a Easton SE16 blade, it fit pretty snugly but I'd rather it be snug then having to fool around with strips of tape/extra glue on the tenon. Feels really balanced, can't wait to use it in my game tonight. Hopefully I'll get some pictures up. Two more to go!

How long was it?

[twiztidwrista10 3]

Ahh I threw it in the trash. I dunno, my SE16 tenon's are like what.. 2-3 inches.. I think. The Dolo blade tenon must of been 3-4 inches. I'll get back to ya on this after I convert the next two.

[farhanshak 1]

Hey Guys and gals.

was wondering if I could get some help here...Ive converted easton and bauer sticks without a problem.

I have 3 warrior dolomites which I am trying to convert. Not sure which year this is but this is how they look

I cut away the blade (all 3 of them are broken at the blade)

I can see where the tenon is, when I try to hammer away at it, it seems as though its going through the shaft (damaging/cracking the shaft)...I was able to make some progress but it seems as though nothing is helping.

this is what I am left with for my end result, and I cant make any progress...

should I be heating up the shaft (near the tenon) and then chiseling away? if anyone has converted this particular stick it would be awesome to know how you did it, or what am I doing wrong.

Thanks gang.

[sharks25 9]

I just heated and pulled on my dolomites, and the whole blade popped out perfectly. Try that, or heat it and try to push the tenon out with rebar or something.

[b33f 0]

I converted a pro stock Dolo Spyne recently. There is usually a very faint crack in the filler after using the stick for a while right where the fuse point is. I heated the fuse point, and with a square and a utility knife, I scored directly on that line all the way around the shaft (or a 16th lower). The filler they use to fill in that area gets somewhat soft when its heated, so it crumbled away as I was scoring it, revealing exactly where the joint is. I then put some heat on the area where the tenon is, tightened the shaft in a vice, gave it a good pull and the blade slid right out.

[farhanshak 1]

I actually have all the blades cut off. got them like that...

its literaly cut where the lie would start...anyone have any guesses as to why the tenon is pulling away but not budging? ive alreaty cut about an inch from where the joint was (the line where you could see the stick was fused together)

would I probably have to heat it more and just slowly chisel away?

[sturdy22 26]

I actually have all the blades cut off. got them like that...

its literaly cut where the lie would start...anyone have any guesses as to why the tenon is pulling away but not budging? ive alreaty cut about an inch from where the joint was (the line where you could see the stick was fused together)

would I probably have to heat it more and just slowly chisel away?

I have never had much luck pulling the blades from dolomites. of the dozen or so Warriors I have done, I have only been able to pull one, and that was one of the originals and a pro stock. just continue to heat and use a chisel. you have a good start already looking at the pictures. I recently converted three of the newer versions like the ones you have in the pictures. I find it is easier to work from the center out, layer by layer using heat and chisel.

[fatwabbit 93]

Farhan, do the reverse. Instead of heating and pulling, just heat it, and knock the tenon INTO the shaft. As the shaft flares out to the normal shaft profile, it gets easier and easier to push the tenon out of the top end. I've converted numerous shafts this way, and it normally leaves a really good and clean shaft.

[mnpucker 33]

Farhan, do the reverse. Instead of heating and pulling, just heat it, and knock the tenon INTO the shaft. As the shaft flares out to the normal shaft profile, it gets easier and easier to push the tenon out of the top end. I've converted numerous shafts this way, and it normally leaves a really good and clean shaft.

2011 Warrior DD could have their own thread for cutting at fuse point since so many blades were defective. What type of replacement blade will fit into an intermediate shaft? taper adult or standard adult?

[b33f 0]

I actually have all the blades cut off. got them like that...

its literaly cut where the lie would start...anyone have any guesses as to why the tenon is pulling away but not budging? ive alreaty cut about an inch from where the joint was (the line where you could see the stick was fused together)

would I probably have to heat it more and just slowly chisel away?

An inch above or below?

[Machinehead2k5 32]

Anyone convert a s19 into a tapered shaft??

[watchgreat 4]

2011 Warrior DD could have their own thread for cutting at fuse point since so many blades were defective. What type of replacement blade will fit into an intermediate shaft? taper adult or standard adult?

Wondering the same thing

[DolomaticDangles 13]

Tapered.It worked for my intermediate Olympic DD and Dolomite Spyne at least...

[Wildcat85 0]

I think if you can't get it out just push it down towards the butt so its out of the way. Or you could push it the whole way through out the butt if your rod is long enough

[S'land9.16.7 6]

Anyone convert a s19 into a tapered shaft??

I did the best I could with this S19. Cut just above elliptical taper and threw in an old standard junior blade. I did add about a 2 1/2 inch plug to it but I like short sticks, so for someone else they might need one longer than that. To be honest I did it just to see if I could but it turned out great. Shoots decent for what it is. Not the greatest pics as they were taken on an iPhone, but I hope you get an idea.

[CornTortillas 0]

Anyone crack open a Warrior Kronik? I want to get a Gionta curve in mine. My optimism remains low due to the alleged "True One" construction and weird indents on the sides.

[Machinehead2k5 32]

I did the best I could with this S19. Cut just above elliptical taper and threw in an old standard junior blade. I did add about a 2 1/2 inch plug to it but I like short sticks, so for someone else they might need one longer than that. To be honest I did it just to see if I could but it turned out great. Shoots decent for what it is. Not the greatest pics as they were taken on an iPhone, but I hope you get an idea.

Thanks for the pics!! I'll see what I can do. I made a senior RBK 9kO take jr. tapered blades, so we'll see how this goes. At least I have somewhat of a reference part for where to cut.