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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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anybody been succesful at salvaging a blade from an ST? snapped it in the middle and its past warranty but still in good condition, wouldn't mind the blade

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I just converted an APX for a buddy of mine. I cut 2.25" below the T in the Textreme logo by the lower Bauer logo. Since it was my buddies, I only inserted a blade (no glue/tape) and it fit with only a tiny amount of wiggle. Should be fixed by 1) gluing or 2) one strip of tape max.

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Anyone have any experience building back a soft blade? I have a couple of S17's, and I'd like to try to repair the blades. The 2.5-3 inches toward the toe are soft and crackly. I was thinking about sanding down a bit, building back w Bondo and laying a layer or two of fiberglass over it.

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Anyone have any experience building back a soft blade? I have a couple of S17's, and I'd like to try to repair the blades. The 2.5-3 inches toward the toe are soft and crackly. I was thinking about sanding down a bit, building back w Bondo and laying a layer or two of fiberglass over it.

They don't feel the same at all with a repair like that. Only semi-success I ever had with a softening blade was to drill a small hole in the toe (soft section) and carefully pour in a pretty thin epoxy. Repeated the pouring several times and after it hardened up it felt much better.

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They don't feel the same at all with a repair like that. Only semi-success I ever had with a softening blade was to drill a small hole in the toe (soft section) and carefully pour in a pretty thin epoxy. Repeated the pouring several times and after it hardened up it felt much better.

Forgive my ignorance here, but where in the toe do you drill? In the flat face of the blade or in the narrow section?

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Lamski, on 03 February 2012 - 09:42 PM, said:

Anyone do a Warrior KGB? Similar to the dolo that I can just heat and pull?

Heat n pull is worth a shot. Try it and if it won't budge then cut and chisel.

Is it the same with a Dynasty? Heat and Pull.

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I have completed a prostock se16 which was extermly easy just heat a bit, seperate the tenon from the side a bit and pull with pliers it came out in one piece. I also finished a eq50 last night. The eq50 was a pain i had to chisel for quite a bit. I was able to finaly get it out and put a warrior dynasty tapered blade in it. Ill test it out tomorrow.

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Being a Mid-kick stick, would it really matter if you put a blade into the other end of a Total One? ie. flipping and inserting blade in the old handle and using the old blade as the handle?

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Being a Mid-kick stick, would it really matter if you put a blade into the other end of a Total One? ie. flipping and inserting blade in the old handle and using the old blade as the handle?

I find the shaft wall on the Totalone to be very thin on the handle end. It might not be able to withstand all the abuse.

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Good point, I threw a blade in mine anyways. I'm using it as a 3rd backup so I haven't really noticed anything bad about it, but then again it hasn't got a lot of ice time. Might bring it out for a skate to test the integrity.

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anybody been succesful at salvaging a blade from an ST? snapped it in the middle and its past warranty but still in good condition, wouldn't mind the blade

I have removed/salvaged blades, several STs and dolomites. Should be the same for any fused OPS. I used a cutting disk on a rotary tool to cut the shaft along the tenon of the blade ( like cutting a cast off a broken arm or leg).

but not too deep to cut into the tenon of the blade. then use a heat gun to soften the epoxy and use a pair of pliers to pry/peel the shaft off the the blade. you may need to remove some residue fron the tenon but it should fit into any tapered shaft. i usually pair the blades and shafts of the same manuf. in order to retain the feel of the original stick.

Edited by sturdy22

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I know this is aggressive and probably won'd work. but I am going to try MacGyvering a One95 blade. I cut it off and there is hollow. I'm going to try it with some wood, cut off a piece 1/2 x 1 and sand down one end to fit into the blade.

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I know this is aggressive and probably won'd work. but I am going to try MacGyvering a One95 blade. I cut it off and there is hollow. I'm going to try it with some wood, cut off a piece 1/2 x 1 and sand down one end to fit into the blade.

Careful. Stick is going to have an unpredictable kick point due to the wood, and the plug may not seat properly and fly out on a shot.

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Careful. Stick is going to have an unpredictable kick point due to the wood, and the plug may not seat properly and fly out on a shot.

Yes indeed, certainly not a stick I will depend on. 5th string backup twig!

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Done it with a reebok 10k pro stock and an 11k pro stock (they both had the fv code on them iirc) just cut the broken blades a few inches up on the shaft and did it in a few cm steps untill a tapered blade fit. I still use the 10k as my backup stick with no probs

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can someone please show me a picture of where to cut for an Easton ST?

heat the shaft approx 4 inches from the heel of the blade. The fuse line will become visable.

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TOTALONE

Easiest conversion ever. I was lucky to made the first cut it at the right place! Just sawed 38mm below "E" in TOTAL ONE. There was a hole 13*29mm. I applied a piece of tape to make the tapered tenon fit tighter.

Now I have the perfect mid kick tapered shaft of 77 flex. (ok, not 77 because I had to cut 2" from top to adjust it) let's say 80 flex )))

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I tried this exactly 38mm from the E & it didn't work. The shaft seemed to have another section in it which prevents you from fitting even a tapered blade. Going to have to try & cut a little higher I think :(

Edited by MushyBushy
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heat the shaft approx 4 inches from the heel of the blade. The fuse line will become visable.

Is this the same for most Easton sticks?

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