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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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I'd say maybe 3mm roughly I might be able to chisel another layer out but I'm not sure

Work a chisel in there carefully, I am guessing you can get another very thin layer out.

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ok so i cut the blade off my dolomite spyne hd and i managed to chisel out the tenon but a tapered blade wouldn't fit. So I cut another 3/4 of an inch and it still would not fit how much higher roughly will i have to cut?

The Spyne taper is much longer than Warrior's normal, so you'll likely have to go up much higher. Either you can compensate for this with a very long end plug or just flip the shaft (yes, I know that messes with your kickpoint).

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total ones are really easy. just cut at right place to let tapered blade in 13x26mm
T1s are great for cutting because they are mid-kick and the shaft doesn't lose it's features

0_87a40_bbbee909_L.jpg

Edited by MilleniumFalcon
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I tried a TPS R10 without luck. I tried heat and pull and got no where, even using a slide hammer. I also tried cutting the blade off at what I thought was the joint and pushing it out of the shaft and up in to the shaft. Neither worked.

I think the shaft narrowed internally above the blade. Maybe the walls were thicker as part of the PTC concept? The piece of rebar that normally works for me to push blades out of tapered OPS got jammed in the R10.

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hows the response plus to convert? just found some on hockey giant and for 70 bucks figured why not. no idea what the curves going to be like so looking to make some shafts anybody done these?

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hows the response plus to convert? just found some on hockey giant and for 70 bucks figured why not. no idea what the curves going to be like so looking to make some shafts anybody done these?

No problems at all with them, assuming they are the original models and not something new. It's the same shaft as the original Response.

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anyone have success with a CCM Vector?

No, those have a longer (18") taper than most other sticks and the interior corners are rounded off.

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Happy to report that I had successfully chiseled out a broken blade in a friend's Warrior Dynasty stick. Here's the procedure that worked very well for me:

- Located a fuse point and cut the broken blade off just above the point

- Had a set of different point chisels ready and secured the stick in a vice-grip

- Used a heat gun for about 2-3 minutes and heated the end of the stick in the area of the broken blade uniformly all around

- Start working the chisel (different width) on all four sides to separate the blade material from the inside of the shaft carefully

- Every minute, reheat the stick for 30 seconds and keep working the chisels around the perimeter until the blade material starts to peel away

- Would work a thick flat screwdriver in to push the blade pieces down the shaft until the length of the hosel is clean

The whole process took about 20 minutes as I was trying to be careful. I'll snap a photo tomorrow and post it to show the final result.

Edited by bagsbie

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Hey, so I've searched through this topic pretty throughly I feel, and I still cant figure out if this'll work on a vapor X 7.0? Anyone have any dea if it would?

Edited by Phazon

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Hey, so I've searched through this topic pretty throughly I feel, and I still cant figure out if this'll work on a vapor X 7.0? Anyone have any dea if it would?

No, it doesn't really work with that type of stick construction.

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