Jump to content
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

Recommended Posts

anyone know how to remove a good blade from a broken shaft? I was able to snag a couple blades, but I dont wanna mess them up until I know how to do it right. Someone mentioned the directions are in this thread, but I looked and couldnt find them anywhere.

I normally cut of the shaft 1" above the blades tendon. After that I cut around the fuse point (not to deep). Then I cut across the remaining shaft that is over the tendon to split it in two halfes (not too deep). At the end you can pull of the remaining piece of the shaft with the use of a heat gun and pliers.Works every time ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

anyone know how to remove a good blade from a broken shaft? I was able to snag a couple blades, but I dont wanna mess them up until I know how to do it right. Someone mentioned the directions are in this thread, but I looked and couldnt find them anywhere.

I normally cut of the shaft 1" above the blades tendon. After that I cut around the fuse point (not to deep). Then I cut across the remaining shaft that is over the tendon to split it in two halfes (not too deep). At the end you can pull of the remaining piece of the shaft with the use of a heat gun and pliers.Works every time ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I normally cut of the shaft 1" above the blades tendon. After that I cut around the fuse point (not to deep). Then I cut across the remaining shaft that is over the tendon to split it in two halfes (not too deep). At the end you can pull of the remaining piece of the shaft with the use of a heat gun and pliers.Works every time ...

What do you use to cut? I have a dremel around here somewhere I think.

Gonna try it out today.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

anyone know how to remove a good blade from a broken shaft? I was able to snag a couple blades, but I dont wanna mess them up until I know how to do it right. Someone mentioned the directions are in this thread, but I looked and couldnt find them anywhere.

I've saved blades before. The details are listed here: http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/7494-cutting-ops-at-fuse-point/page-26#entry840002

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What do you use to cut? I have a dremel around here somewhere I think.

Gonna try it out today.

With a Dremel it is fast and easy, but a simple hand saw is enough.

Edited by Martis

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I removed some blades today. Had 4 to try:

CCM rbz stage 2

Bauer apx2 (blue?)

Easton Stealth RS (rounded taper)

Easton Stealth i think (square taper)

CCM - Pretty easy for my first time. You could actually see where the shaft was fused to the blade, and even some paint was chipping off around it. I used a dremel to make the cut from 1 inch above the tendon down to where the shaft is fused. That adhesive is super strong, but after prying with a screwdriver, I finally managed to pull the blade out. The line I cut was a little deep, but not deep enough to ruin anything. Im sure if I had a sliding compound miter saw like yrhmblnr8r used, it would make it way easier, and would have gotten better results.

Easton Stealth (square taper) - Not sure if this was from an older version of the stealth, but this was also just as easy as the CCM. You could even see where it was fused beforehand.

Easton Stealth (round taper) - This is where I ran out of luck. For the first two, I cut excess shaft off a little at a time until I could reach in with my finger and touch the tendon. Well I reached the tendon way earlier than I anticipated, and found that the blade actually included about 16" of shaft. Not sure if this is how some sticks are. Ive also noticed that warrior daggers may have the same setup. Anyone with info on this please explain. EDIT: I should mention it looks like it would probably fit a standard stick, but would you really feel comfortable using a two piece wit something fused that close to the flex point???

Bauer APX - No tendon, it was completely hollow from about 15" above the heel. So either it has the same construction as the rounded stealth, or its really a one piece stick.

Heres a quick video of the ones I did manage to save (just did it quick before going to bed, sorry if its terrible): http://youtu.be/dq2PmJntypY

Also heres some videos of the process if it ends up helping anyone. I initially was going to record the whole thing, but probably missed some parts, and probably screwed up a little, but oh well.

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnX9khywnTtpTpbsrMr2W_T1PFpGTQ26C

Lemme know if anyone has any questions, or if you have any advice for me for the next time I try this!

Edited by louierev07

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can't recover blades from elliptical taper sticks such as the S19, RS, Warrior dagger range (nor turn them into a decent 2 piece). Nor can you get blades from One95, APX, X60's (never tried any of the lower range) as they are like a one piece construction (but they do make a good shaft).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, I've salvaged blades from the s17/s19/RS line. They're still made like a traditional shaft/blade, it's just that the elliptical taper makes for a long blade hosel. The tenon starts about 1/3 of the way up the shaft.

Edit: I posted before I watched Louierev's video. Looks like he already got it. One thing I found from trial and error, don't expose more than 7 cm of tenon on the RS conversions. After that, it hollows out for the elliptical taper and is extremely weak.

Edited by yrhmblnr8r

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing I found from trial and error, don't expose more than 7 cm of tenon on the RS conversions. After that, it hollows out for the elliptical taper and is extremely weak.

Hey, could you clarify what you mean on this? I think I definitely went too low. I thought it would be like the other conversions, but just higher up on the shaft. I also made a horizontal cut to try and help get the shaft off (adhesive was stronger than the other sticks) which was too low. Ill probably end up trying it out if I get a short shaft, but I dont count on it lasting too long.

So can you "choose" where the shaft stops on this stick? Unlike the others I did where the shaft and blade are clearly separated.

Heres my terrible cut:

http://i.imgur.com/0uhcCfj.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8CWc1Dx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/T2oRAfC.jpg

Edited by louierev07

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, could you clarify what you mean on this? I think I definitely went too low. I thought it would be like the other conversions, but just higher up on the shaft. I also made a horizontal cut to try and help get the shaft off (adhesive was stronger than the other sticks) which was too low. Ill probably end up trying it out if I get a short shaft, but I dont count on it lasting too long.

You were correct in your youtube commentary. If you cut below the RS tenon, it's just a hollow shaft. The construction of the RS is hollow above and below the tenon. The tenon itself is about 8cm of solid mass that you can take advantage of when trying to salvage the blade. I usually trim/chisel 7cm only, so I know I haven't gone too far.

In your pics of the Dremel'd RS, you can see the light-coloured epoxy, then some diagonal fibers, with a clear lateral line. I suspect that's where the tenon ends and the hollow elliptical taper begins. If you use the stick on the ice, be sure to test in the corner during warmups. It may not be solid for game action and you don't want it to helicopter into someone else on the ice. You may be better off just taking the Dremel to it to see how it's put together so you know for next time.

It looks like the others came out clean. It's not that hard to separate stick from shaft if you have a steady hand and some time to work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Question to people using converted one piece sticks: How much does a higher cut affect the kick point of a stick? and also how does adding a butt end effect feel, and weight distribution of a stick.

For example, I have two Ai9's I got from ebay. One is cut very close to where the fuse point was (maybe exactly), and the other is maybe 2-3 inches up.

Here are the two sticks (notice the little diamonds):

sO4LvsR.jpg

And here is a picture of an uncut ai9, so you can see where mine was cut:

vHuq1Ah.jpg

As far as fitting a blade goes, there was a very small difference in the size of the opening, but nothing an extra piece of tape took care of.

My concern is how much difference can you expect in the two sticks since on one the blade is higher up than it was intended. I know ideally, the stick with more diamonds showing will perform closer to how the stick should, but will 2-3 inches make a noticeable difference?

And in a few sticks, I end up having to add a plug that is a few inches long - does the plug affect the stick at all? Does that wood in the end of the stick take away from any vibrations that you would normally get when handling a puck, and give you a different feel? How long of a plug can you insert without really screwing things up?

And I also noticed if I try to find the center of the sticks by balancing them on something, the center of gravity is shifted up on the ones with the plugs, is this going to make a big difference?

On the other hand, I just ordered a harrow blade for when these wood ones wear out - I've heard its heavier than others, so should I actually try to balance my stick out with some sort of extra weight on the top? Or am I overthinking this?

Edited by louierev07

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@louierev07 well, as a general rule every 2 inches you cut off will increase the flex by 10 (total stick length).

I guess the Ai9, that is cut higher will have a different position of flex point than the other one cut at different height. If the total length is equal, there will be nearly no difference in overall flex. Though, these two sticks may feel different, you will have to try.

What I experienced in the past, plugs do affect stick feel and flex! Wood plugs, if long enough (> 1 inch ), will more or less stiffen the shaft. You can get an oggie plug that flexes more with the shaft than wood plugs, but it will also change feeling and flex. I've not tried a lot with compostie plugs, so not much experience for that.

For the last stick, that I converted for myself, I tried out wood plugs with increasing length to stiffen it up the way i like the flex. It was a pro stock Warrior DT1 (+ Warrior Dolomite Blade) with shaft flex 80 ... and I prefer something like ~ 85 - 90. The final wood plug did the trick for me (~ 2inches).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just did a Easton ST, super easy.

Cut 1/4" above the fuse line and fully expected that I would need to chisel out the tendon. I applied heat and the tendon started slipping back inside the shaft after a few knocks with my poorly sharpened chisel.

Seriously, this took less than 5 minutes, I had a harder time untaping the knob job to remove the top cap from the shaft.

Put in a recycled blade from a broken OPS

n3io.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Broke my Mako2 stick about 6" above the fuse area blocking a shot a couple months back, finally tried to extract the blade over the weekend and had great success! I now have a fully usable nearly new E28 tapered blade, just need to get a new tapered shaft as the one I have it in now is used for dry land stickhandling.

IMG_5267_zps764e1896.jpg

IMG_5268_zpse5c93b45.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am going to tackle this... looks like Buzz_LightBeer's method is pretty easy and effective.

2 quick questions:

- Can I put this on my miter saw and cut it, or will there be issues since the miter saw blade is made for wood, not composite?

- Should I be cutting right at where it looks like the fuse point is, or right below it?

Thanks guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

miter saw is fine, I use a circular saw with the stock cutting blade. Cut on the fused line, re-cut if required.

Edited by simnorm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just did a 20k shaft and a RBZ80 blade. The rbz80 blade was really easy to save, and surprisingly weights less than 140g.

I also saved 2 Total One NXG shafts and 1 Mako.

Here's a pic of some of my conversion

SWD T90 blade coffee pattern :facepalm:

SWD T90 blade

CCM RBZ blade

Warrior ak27 pro stock, dolomite repaint with a EQ30 blade (heavy blade)

Easton ST

Reebok 20k pro stock 03 shaft?

Reebok 11k pro stock FV shaft

Warrior dolomite

CCM RBZ80, I was bored not worth saving

ops2shaft.jpg

Edited by simnorm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got a pro stock ccm rbz shaft shipped to me. Some of the hosel is still in the shaft, I've tried heating and chiseling and it still doesn't seem to budge, I'll post some pics. Should I cut more? I've read through the thread and apparently buzz lightbeer has converted a few maybe he can help.

29w5082.jpg

2myasew.jpg

Edited by JDS93

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got a pro stock ccm rbz shaft shipped too me. Some of the tenon is still in the shaft, I've tried heating and chiseling and it still doesn't seem to budge, I'll post some pics. Should I cut more? I've read through the thread and apparently buzz lightbeer has converted a few maybe he can help.

is it a stage 2? Im having problems myself with leftover epoxy in the shaft. I was able to get the tenon out though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...